[X_man]

Just picked up a '66 coupe w/289 & 4 spd for my son. It currently has 4 wheel drums w/ dual port M/C.
In my research so far, I have found 4 options for upgrading to front discs:
1. SSBC kit
2. MPbrake kit
3. the Granada swap, I would buy the kit from Dennis.
4. scarebird brackets & purchase the parts locally.

The current front end seems very solid as it looks to have many new components under there because they still have readable stickers. I just don't know if I want to put non-Mustang parts on the car, but if that's the best value, then I would do it. Also, is my current dual M/C usable with front discs, or do I need to plan on replacing it as well? What about the distribution block on the fenderwell?

What has most conversions used and what is the satisfaction level with your choice?

Thx,

[5.0 in a 66]

1) Insane $$$, good stuff

2) Friggin Expensive, good stuff, but there have been some stories about the service

3) Not a good option for 65-66 due to geometry issues that can be avoided CHEAP with the other options out there

I have not yet used the Scarebird stuff, but I've spoken with Mark?, the owner/designer, who seems to know his stuff and has, as it seems, installed all this himself. He actively takes suggestions from customers, it seems, judging from some StangNet posts. I've spoken with all three (a lot, I know ) people that have installed and used his stuff, and they all loved the performance and said it was a straight bolt on. I've ridden in heavily flogged S10s and the brakes are darn good!

I'll be using the scarebird stuff as soon as I get my finances (and my car) to that stage LOL

Here's a parts list, with prices from THE cheapest place to get them (rockauto.com)

68 Mustang Raybestos rotors $38ea x2
90 4wd s10 calipers $11ea +$10 core x2
Raymold brake pads $17 x1
78 Seville flex hoses $16ea x2
74 Maverick MC $23 x1
66 Mustang Seals $5ea x2
Hardware kit $10ea x2
Dennis' prop valve $45?
Scarebird brackets $110 shipped

TOTAL = $377, DONE! (not incl' lines or fluid lol)

You can't use your MC as it will make the pads drag (drums use more residual pressure to keep the shoes close to the drums). You can use your dist block, but on the flipside, you can run the lines cleaner without it, and since there's basically nothing in it, it doesnt make a difference.

HTH
--Kyle
PS: Holy crap I wrote a novel

[X_man]

No, not a novel, I really appreciate the information. Can you be more specific to the geometry issues with the Granada based upgrade?

Thanks for the great info!

Ken

[5.0 in a 66]

The geometry of the Granada spindles (and all 67+ spindles) worsens the early Mustang's bumpsteer problems, and it can make things hairy in certain driving situations, as well as making the handling situation not quite so "performance". A whole lot of people don't have a bit of problems, and I've spoken to a fair amount of people that did. Additionally, aftermarket control arms, and some such things dont mix with Granada stuff ( for example, GW arms and Granada will make the front end rise on accel and drop on decell)

Factory Granada stuff is going for more than it ought to be worth, and Dennis' repop stuff is not cheap either. I'd rather save $225 or so, and avoid all probbable issues.

[heaphchop]

I think the piece-meal idea is good to save some dough, but it looks like a bit of a scavenger hunt to me. I recommend the MPBrakes system. I installed their power front disc conversion (with dual master cylinder) a couple months ago on my V8 '65. It was originally 4 wheel disc, manual brakes, single pot master. I love the improved stopping power and easy pedal the power disc system gives, not to mention peace of mind that comes with a dual master.

I had absolutley NO problems with MPBrakes service. The guys there were more than happy to chat with me and answer the many questions i had. The kit was 100% complete with very clear instructions and was shipped right to my door in under a week. The kit includes a new adjustable proportioning valve to adjust the front/rear brake bias. My kit was $895 and shipping was free at the time (not sure if it always is free).

Installation was a breeze, just follow the directions, which include pictures, so its pretty dummy-proof. After installing (and testing!) head down to a deserted parking lot to adjust the prop.valve to get it just right and you're all set. I completed my setup in a weekend. Brakes on day 1, then the master install and bleeding the next day.

I highly recommend this kit for ease, convenience, completeness and for being close to ford-original. besides the prop valve and power steering its a pretty stock setup, using "ford" calipers and rotors. What i mean is they are direct replacements for original equipment, if your mustang had factory disc brakes. that means when you need new pads or rotors, just head down to NAPA and let them know you need pads or rotor for a '65 mustang w disc brakes and voila!

Thats my 2 cents worth, hope it helps

[X_man]

Hey heaphchop,

What's the difference between the 4 piston and what looks like a single piston caliper on the mpbrakes site? Is one better than the other? I've always thought the 4 piston was prone to leaking?

It's only about $50 difference, so I just want to know what's the best & most reliable.

Thx,

[Scarebird]

We can answer any questions you may have. Our stuff fits into the 14" drum rims just fine.

[heaphchop]

I believe the single piston calpers are more 'correct' for a '65, and supposedly are less prone to leaking. But, the 4 piston are a better choice as far as I'm concerned bc you get more even pressure on the pad, resulting in more efficient braking and better pad wear. As far as being leaky, I couldnt say if theyre more or less likely. I've only had mine (4 piston) for about 5 months, but no problems yet.

[mark123]

Can you put the porp. valve right after the MC or does it have to go inline after the distribution block?

[heaphchop]

A dual master cylinder will eliminate the distribution block. In this case mount the prop valve anywhere between mc and rear wheels. mine is mounted using the holes from the distribution block. If sticking w single pot MC, the prop valve would have to go after the distribution block.

[5.0 in a 66]

4 piston is correct for 65-67 and 1-piston is correct for 68+ Single piston is more idiot proof, where 4 piston works better.

[lads_john]

Originally Posted by heaphchop

I had absolutley NO problems with MPBrakes service. The guys there were more than happy to chat with me and answer the many questions i had. The kit was 100% complete with very clear instructions and was shipped right to my door in under a week. The kit includes a new adjustable proportioning valve to adjust the front/rear brake bias. My kit was $895 and shipping was free at the time (not sure if it always is free).

Installation was a breeze, just follow the directions, which include pictures, so its pretty dummy-proof. After installing (and testing!) head down to a deserted parking lot to adjust the prop.valve to get it just right and you're all set. I completed my setup in a weekend. Brakes on day 1, then the master install and bleeding the next day.

I highly recommend this kit for ease, convenience, completeness and for being close to ford-original. besides the prop valve and power steering its a pretty stock setup, using "ford" calipers and rotors. What i mean is they are direct replacements for original equipment, if your mustang had factory disc brakes. that means when you need new pads or rotors, just head down to NAPA and let them know you need pads or rotor for a '65 mustang w disc brakes and voila!

Thats my 2 cents worth, hope it helps

For the record I had the same experience with the Stainless Steel
kit. Good instructions - everything fits and no probs.
Price was around the same I believe and Summit had free shipping.

[mark123]

Originally Posted by heaphchop

A dual master cylinder will eliminate the distribution block. In this case mount the prop valve anywhere between mc and rear wheels. mine is mounted using the holes from the distribution block. If sticking w single pot MC, the prop valve would have to go after the distribution block.

I dont get it? how would a daul mc elimanate the block? The block has 5 lines comming out of it and the prop vavle only 2.

[Scarebird]

We just finished up a 65 2+2 this evening, using 15" Rally rims. Very pretty car with a Toploader and 289. We used the stock single manual master, and the 68-69 rotors. No prop valve just as Ford did in 65 and 66. Car stops much better- smooth and starts to slow soon as you touch the pedal- we were doing this to refine the hose routing for the earlier cars. Client's neighbor also has a 65, with drums and 14" whelcovers- and wants to do the same.

[red65mustang]

I am confused, Ford had a porportion valve in the 65-66 Disc-Drum Mustangs single bowl MC's on the left rear fender apron just below the MC and distrbution block, see picture below for reference. Both my 65 and 66 have them. And I would love to run that car with no proporation valve over a brake test pad to see the braking percentage. There is a reason car manufactures use proportion valves with Disc-Drum setups and its not for looks.