Any carb using a thermostatic choke has to have a source of heat for it. The typical arrangement is for the choke body to have an inlet on the side where a copper tube attaches. The tube leads over to the manifold where it picks up heat. If you don't have a manifold with attachment point, then wrap three turns of the copper tube around the manifold or header pipe and leave the end open.
Electric chokes work similarly but have heating coil in the choke body and a wire leading to switched 12volts instead of the copper tube.
With engine cold, not running, kick the accelerator down quickly to reset the carb linkage. Loosen then rotate choke body until the choke butterfly rests in the closed position (should not be tightly closed, rather be loosely closed with perhaps 1/8" opening). This is your initial choke setting.
Kick down accelerator several short strokes then start engine. Watch choke butterfly and pay attention to how long it takes to open. This is the ideal time to adjust fast idle. Fast idle should be somewhere around 1000 rpm. When the choke is fully open, kick the linkage and see that the fast idle cam drops out. This should leave the engine in normal idle. This is the time to adjust normal idle rpm.
Once you're close, reset mixtures for lean idle rolloff less 1/2 turn of the idle mixtures. Allow engine to cool and repeat choke, fast idle and idle adjustments.
If your electrical is in good condition (plugs, points, wires, cap and rotor) you'll have a sweet running car. | 
