Hello, maybe you guys can offer me some insight. I talked to summit tech support about a radiator to support 500hp. I am building a 65 and he said i needed a Be Cool package, but the summit radiators are so much cheaper, with the same core size, same material (alum), same # of rows (2). he is positive the summit radiator would not be enough. what do i need to cool 500hp? I dont want to spend 1000 on a be cool package. Im thinking, a nice new radiator, and a high volume used fan from like a lincoln mark VIII fan or like a late 80's taurus v6 fan. that should keep the cost down. would there be enough surface area in the stock raditor cutout of like 18in x 18in? or should i chop the rad support to fit a wider one? what do I need as far as a radiator goes?
I would steer clear of a 2 row any way. You need the 3+ or 4 row in whatever you choose. More rows = more cooling. Also, you might want to consider a 160* t-stat. Get the electric fan, it will help free up some ponies, and they work so much better than the orig. Sounds strange they would tell you that, since in a nutsheel, they are the same rad. Maybe he gets a commision on the sell.
do you think the 17in x 17in core size would be inadequate for the horsepower level? the mustangs of later years had bigger radiators i think...
I replaced my 390 original radiator with a 2 row alum rad ($500.00), the 2 row after market was nearly as wide as my stock 3 row. The cooling capacity of the aluminum is worlds better. The other option I looked at were a mech fan and a pushing electric fan on the outside. My engine was built to be 420 hp with an estimated 450 ft lbs of tor, at the dyno, rear tires were 303hop 370 in tor. Bottom line in San Diego with a 190 therm, a big block 6- bladed fan ($85) and shroud, (added a six blade fan versus the five) and my car never overheats, even in San Diego! I never purchased the electric pusher fan since I never really get hot anymore. The most difficult part was the getting correct spacer and trimming the shroud to the new fan, seemed like there are a ton of fan sizes and blade numbers, some just 1/2 inches apart it seemed. hope that helps I did not spend $1000.00 but got half-way there atleast, I think the radiator maker was Powerdyne.
2 rows of Aluminum Radiator is more than equal to 4 rows of copper or brass the tubes in Aluminum Radiators are at least 1" in diameter which equals more area and better heat disapation with Aluminum. They are far superior and they look better. I bought mine from Howe Racing. www.howeracing.com/Radiators/Index-CustomRadiators.htm
2-row alum Vs. 2-row brass isnt a fair comparison...hell NASCAR only uses 3-row alum.
I'd cut the core support to fit a wider radiator and install a summit rad. People have been having problems with BeCools in high-hp setups and one guy replaced his $600 becool with a $200 summit and it stopped overheating...imagine that!
A Mk8 fan and summit rad ought to keep it good and cool. Shouldnt be any real need for a big waterpump and I would NEVER run a 160º thermostat.
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66 coupe 5.0/T5, home-brewed power 4 wheel disc setup, 350hp+, looks like it belongs in 1968
And why is that??? I've heard from Racers that the engine runs best at around 160, because heat robs HP. Just curious for your reason. Thanks for any response.
And why is that??? I've heard from Racers that the engine runs best at around 160, because heat robs HP. Just curious for your reason. Thanks for any response.
A cool running engine builds up acids leftover from the combustion process on the cyl walls, and this could etch the walls. When these acids circulate in the oil, they could etch the bearings. Racers don't have this issue as they change oil frequently and don't run for extended periods. You etch the walls and the block is toast.
180 seems to be the temp at which oil is fully heated, (hot oil = less sludge, less acid buildup in the oil) things are expanded to their fullest and working best. The higher temp also makes for MUCH better fuel economy and slightly better driveability, not to mention good heat
Trivia: A popular GM hop-up is to slap in a 160 t-stat. Fact: GM EFI systems don't go closed loop until 190-195....cheby idiots
HTH
--Kyle
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66 coupe 5.0/T5, home-brewed power 4 wheel disc setup, 350hp+, looks like it belongs in 1968
Thank you for the reply, and maybe you can put this "myth" to rest for me too. Doesn't the t-stat run a little warmer than what it's rated? In other words, if it's rated at 160, it will take it to around 170/180 for it to actually open? I heard that too, but I'm not a Mechanic, so I usually trust people that know more about these thing than I do. Thanks again for the time, it's greatly appreciated.
Thank you for the reply, and maybe you can put this "myth" to rest for me too. Doesn't the t-stat run a little warmer than what it's rated? In other words, if it's rated at 160, it will take it to around 170/180 for it to actually open? I heard that too, but I'm not a Mechanic, so I usually trust people that know more about these thing than I do. Thanks again for the time, it's greatly appreciated.
They can, yes, but the good thermostats are more or less right on.
I've installed Stant 180º t-stats in 6 identical cars and the needle has alwas fallen in the same place on all of them. I went thru 3 thermostats on one of them before I could find a good one in stock. The other 3 t-stats ran too cold but this one was right on. On a 95º day, the electric fans will kick on at roughly the same time in all of them, so it seems they are all running the same temps. I know some people are so OCD as to toss the thermostat in a pot of water and monitor the opening temp with a thermometer before they install it.
HTH
--Kyle
PS: Writing this made me realize it's time to do a timing/waterpump/thermostat job on my buddies car when we fix the accident damage. Man is he gonna be happy about THAT
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66 coupe 5.0/T5, home-brewed power 4 wheel disc setup, 350hp+, looks like it belongs in 1968
cooling for 500hp in a 65? 
