Gas shoots out of carb when I turn engine over? Need Help!
Ok, i went out to run my car today, its been about two weeks since it has last been ran. I tried starting it by pumping the gas and turning the key, but it wont turn-over. Then i hear it fire once and gas shoots out of two of the barrels of the carb. Any idea what would cause this?
Thanks,
Sore
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1964 1/2 Mustang (Teal Green), Ford 302, Bored .030 over, 3/4 cam, Edelbrock Performer 289 Intake Manifold, Edelbrock 650 CFM Carb, Hooker Headers/Collectors, 2 1/2" Exhaust Pipes, H-Pipe, Summit Glasspacks, 15" Magnum 500's, Cooper Cobra 215/65 front - 235/65 back, Summit 3 1/8" Tach w/ Shift light, 105,000 Original Miles On Body, 2500 Miles On Engine, Interior and All Chrome/Decals are Original and in Great Shape!
Has the distributor been tampered with? Sounds like it is 180 degrees off on the timing to me.
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"yeah though I walk through the valley of the shadow of rice, I will fear no turbo for torque art with me. Thy rods and thy crankshaft, they comfort me."
thats a possibility i did have all the spark plugs off on one side and i may have put them back the wrong way, though i think i was pretty careful. Is there anyway to know the way it should go other than trial-and-error?
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1964 1/2 Mustang (Teal Green), Ford 302, Bored .030 over, 3/4 cam, Edelbrock Performer 289 Intake Manifold, Edelbrock 650 CFM Carb, Hooker Headers/Collectors, 2 1/2" Exhaust Pipes, H-Pipe, Summit Glasspacks, 15" Magnum 500's, Cooper Cobra 215/65 front - 235/65 back, Summit 3 1/8" Tach w/ Shift light, 105,000 Original Miles On Body, 2500 Miles On Engine, Interior and All Chrome/Decals are Original and in Great Shape!
If you just had the spark plugs out, that wouldn't cause the gas problem. I was just trying to analyze your situation.
My motor was 180 degrees off on the timing because I pulled the distributor out and put it back in without thinking. My carb did the same thing.
If you haven't taken your distributor out, then it's another problem.
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"yeah though I walk through the valley of the shadow of rice, I will fear no turbo for torque art with me. Thy rods and thy crankshaft, they comfort me."
When was the timing chain and sprockets changed? Sounds like you may have jumped a tooth or two. I would check to see where the valves are timed in relation to the crank being at top dead center. On some of the original equipment sprockets they used nylon teeth so the timing set would be quiet. These sprockets will wear or the nylon on the teeth will become brittle and crumble allowing the timing chain to slip a couple of teeth. If this is the case always replace your timing set with aftermarket metal sprockets. They will last much longer and don't really make any noticeable noise. Good luck,--Chuck PS I just noticed you say there is only 1600 miles on your engine then disregard my previous statement. There is a possibility that you may have sheared the roll pin on the distributor gear. I went to a 3/16 inch roll pin on my dist. because I am running a high volume oil pump and the 1/8 inch roll pin has been known to shear when running my type of oil pump. All the best,__Chuck
Update: ok i got it to run for a few seconds and i heard something hitting in the engine and this was the first time i got it started since i put on some new valve covers. Is it possible that the things under the valve covers(i cant think of the name right now) are hitting the covers, and/or getting stuck?
Thanks,
Sore
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1964 1/2 Mustang (Teal Green), Ford 302, Bored .030 over, 3/4 cam, Edelbrock Performer 289 Intake Manifold, Edelbrock 650 CFM Carb, Hooker Headers/Collectors, 2 1/2" Exhaust Pipes, H-Pipe, Summit Glasspacks, 15" Magnum 500's, Cooper Cobra 215/65 front - 235/65 back, Summit 3 1/8" Tach w/ Shift light, 105,000 Original Miles On Body, 2500 Miles On Engine, Interior and All Chrome/Decals are Original and in Great Shape!
Hello. If you have some sort of roller rocker set-up and put on a set of the aluminium valve covers like the open letter Cobra ones, then yes, the rockers are beating on the bottom of the baffle in the valve covers. I have seen cases in which the baffle on the valve cover was holding one or more exhaust valve open all of the time and that produced symptoms exactly like you describe. If this turns out to be what's going on with your car, then there are a couple of ways to go to straighten things out. If you really, really love the valve covers that you now have, Branda makes a set of one inch spacers for exactly this situation. They lift the valve cover up enough to where the rocker arms aren't hitting any more. Or you could go with a 68 style chrome valve cover set. The 'Powered by Ford' ones. They are tall enough to give you needed clearance. Hope that helps.
i think that is the problem. thanks i will get some of those spacers
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1964 1/2 Mustang (Teal Green), Ford 302, Bored .030 over, 3/4 cam, Edelbrock Performer 289 Intake Manifold, Edelbrock 650 CFM Carb, Hooker Headers/Collectors, 2 1/2" Exhaust Pipes, H-Pipe, Summit Glasspacks, 15" Magnum 500's, Cooper Cobra 215/65 front - 235/65 back, Summit 3 1/8" Tach w/ Shift light, 105,000 Original Miles On Body, 2500 Miles On Engine, Interior and All Chrome/Decals are Original and in Great Shape!
OK so if i were to get these would they also act as gaskets or would i still have to use gaskets, and i guess two pairs of gaskets.
-Sore
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1964 1/2 Mustang (Teal Green), Ford 302, Bored .030 over, 3/4 cam, Edelbrock Performer 289 Intake Manifold, Edelbrock 650 CFM Carb, Hooker Headers/Collectors, 2 1/2" Exhaust Pipes, H-Pipe, Summit Glasspacks, 15" Magnum 500's, Cooper Cobra 215/65 front - 235/65 back, Summit 3 1/8" Tach w/ Shift light, 105,000 Original Miles On Body, 2500 Miles On Engine, Interior and All Chrome/Decals are Original and in Great Shape!
I priced those spacers and I think they are expensive. You may find that the Fel-Pro 5/16 in. p/n1645 valve cover gaskets will give you enough space, they are twice the thickness of the regular gaskets and are about $14.00 for a set. Do your valve covers have baffles in them? You may be able to remove them and get the needed clearance as a last resort before opting for the spacers.--------Chuck
that would save me a lot of money. but what do you mean when you say baffles?
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1964 1/2 Mustang (Teal Green), Ford 302, Bored .030 over, 3/4 cam, Edelbrock Performer 289 Intake Manifold, Edelbrock 650 CFM Carb, Hooker Headers/Collectors, 2 1/2" Exhaust Pipes, H-Pipe, Summit Glasspacks, 15" Magnum 500's, Cooper Cobra 215/65 front - 235/65 back, Summit 3 1/8" Tach w/ Shift light, 105,000 Original Miles On Body, 2500 Miles On Engine, Interior and All Chrome/Decals are Original and in Great Shape!
The baffles I am referring to are small sheet metal plates that are attached inside the valve covers. They are usually where the oil filler cap or the opening for the PCV valve are. Sometimes they are secured with small screws or pop rivets. The purpose is to keep the engine oil from splashing out of the opening. Most times removing them has little effect on oil loss. There are grommets avaliable to place in the valve covers that have a built in baffle molded into them to use for your oil fill or PCV installation, but like I said it usually isn't an issue particularily with the fill cap. ----Chuck
1964 1/2 Mustang (Teal Green), Ford 302, Bored .030 over, 3/4 cam, Edelbrock Performer 289 Intake Manifold, Edelbrock 650 CFM Carb, Hooker Headers/Collectors, 2 1/2" Exhaust Pipes, H-Pipe, Summit Glasspacks, 15" Magnum 500's, Cooper Cobra 215/65 front - 235/65 back, Summit 3 1/8" Tach w/ Shift light, 105,000 Original Miles On Body, 2500 Miles On Engine, Interior and All Chrome/Decals are Original and in Great Shape!