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Classic Mustangs Tech Forum

Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 01-28-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Default 302 won't fire (coil is good)

I had the coil tested and the control module (which was bad) replaced but the motor will not fire. It cranks like a champ though. Is there anything else I can try/test? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

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Unread 01-28-2007   #2 (permalink)
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Put some fuel in the carb, and try cranking it then.
If it gets some good spark, and a continued amount of fuel it may start.
if it starts, and dies shortly after its not getting a good fuel flow.
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Unread 01-29-2007   #3 (permalink)
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Yeah, I tried that too. After tinkering with it, I realized the coil wasn't receiving a charge at all so it (the problem) is somewhere between the ignition swith and the coil. Hopefully, just a bad/corroded wire. Thanks for your reply
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Unread 01-30-2007   #4 (permalink)
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Do you know there are two seperate circuits to the coil ? One circuit provides a full 12 volts to the coil when you are cranking the engine and it bypasses the ballast resistor (which is a length of resistance wire with usually a pink colored insulation situated in the under dash wiring harness to the ignition switch). The other circuit provides about 8 volts to the coil in the run position. The source for the 12 volts comes from the terminal marked "I" on the starter solenoid and is only energized when the solenoid is in the energized mode. This is the only source of power to the coil when you are cranking the engine. Place a volt meter or test light to the coil "+" terminal and crank the engine to see if you are getting any voltage. The wire at the solenoid is brown in color and at the coil it should be red/green stripe. Also test to see if there is any voltage at the terminal mentioned at the solenoid. There are a couple of connectors in these circuits and they may be corroded or you have broken wire or bad solenoid. The reason for this set up is to give the coil full voltage for easier starting. Hope this helps,---Chuck
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Unread 01-30-2007   #5 (permalink)
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Another possibility prenents itself if you have a FACTORY tach. The factory tach is hooked into the ignition to coil wire after the resistance wire, in series. If the tach hs a problem(not an unreasonable thing), the car won't run, PERIOD.
Ask me how I know--LOL
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Unread 01-31-2007   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks a lot for your perspective. I am unfortunately out of town right now for the week, but am anxious to get back to work (on my stang) with test light in hand. I usually bypass solenoid when cranking on it to have a better view. Would you suggest otherwise? It cranks either way, but I will run voltage tests on both solenoid and coil. Thanks much Chuck, you da man!
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Unread 01-31-2007   #7 (permalink)
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All ignition components are factory. What happen with your situation exactly?
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