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Classic Mustangs Tech Forum

Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 01-31-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation 1966 Mustang 289 Engine Rear Main Seals. How to Install?

Hi Guys

I have a 1966 Ford Mustang 289 engine.
Need to known which way >>> does the rear main seals ( i have 2pcs.)
which way does the seal face ?

My seals are in two-halves. When you put 'em together and look on the inside of the seal is beveled. A high side and a low side.

Other than that guys I just don't know which way they are install on the rear of the crankshaft?

WHICH IS THE RIGHT WAY PLEASE ?
HIGH SIDE facing the engine ? with the LOW side facing the engine?
HIGH SIDE facing the tranny ? with the LOW side facing the tranny?

Thank You
GOD BLESS YOU ALL

Schooner
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Unread 01-31-2007   #2 (permalink)
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i just replaced my rear mains last weekend, but my brother in law was the one who actually put them in so i couldn't tell ya but if you ask a local autozone or napa, they should know
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Unread 02-01-2007   #3 (permalink)
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The high side should face the engine. Make sure you remove the pin that is sticking up in the groove on the main cap, if it hasn't already been removed. The sharp pin was used to hold the old rope seal that they used to use before the two piece seal came into use. When you install the new seal offset the seal so that about 3/8in. is sticking up on one side, this offset helps prevent oil leakage at the parting lines between the block and main cap. Don't forget to use ,sparingly, some RTV sealant at the parting lines between the cap and block. All the best,----Chuck
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Unread 02-08-2007   #4 (permalink)
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Hey Guy

Thanks for the tip on asking my local auto shops.

Schooner
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Unread 02-08-2007   #5 (permalink)
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Hi Greek

I'm still a little bit CONFUSED !
I don't know what pin your talking about?
HERE IS WHAT MY REAR MAIN SEAL LOOKS LIKE;

Its in two pieces.
Harden black plastic (no steel ring around the plastic, just hard plastic)

GREEK ~ Are we talking about the same seal?
This is the Rear Main Seal. The one that if not installed properly you get oil all over the driveway. That's if your grateful to have a driveway like I am.

Back to the SEAL: My Rear Main Seal has a CHAMFER on the INSIDE OF THE RING. However, this CHAMFER IS BEVELED like a 45degree angle I would say. like this:

\ low side being the right side of the angle.
That's what the inside of the seal looks like. Low side and high side.
The high side is the top of the angle, looking at it horozonally. (spellin' ?)

I hope I'm explaining it right?
Hope you got my explaination?
This damn thing is driving my NUTS!

NOW THEE QUESTION PLEASE:
Which way does the Bevel on the INSIDE of the ring face as it is on the Crankshalf?

Is the LOW SIDE FACING TOWARDS THE ENGINE or TOWARD THE TRANSMISSION ? PHEW ! DONE !

O.K. GREEK, I'M IN YOUR HANDS you also guys.

GOD bless all you guys for putting-up with ol' man who's just trying to learn from the pro's like yourselves.

Schooner
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Unread 02-09-2007   #6 (permalink)
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Schooner, here goes, the beveled side (low side) faces the transmission and the high side, which has a recessed area directly under it goes toward the engine. If your engine was originally equipped with a rope seal there will be a sharp pin centered in the seal groove in the rear-main cap-it'll have to come out. To remove the pin use a small punch to drive it out. If you have already installed a bearing in the cap remove it so it won't get damaged and reinstall it after you have the seal in place. To remove the pin, place the cap down over the end of a 1-in.-wide piece of wood-so when you are driving the pin down out of the seal groove , the load taken by the cap is directly below the pin. Otherwise, the cap can be sprung, making it unsuitable for use.
With the roap-seal locating pin out of the main cap fill the pin hole with silicone sealer, install the seal and install the bearing insert. Lightly coat the seal halves with oil, and while installing them don't let the oil get on the block and cap mating surfaces. If it does wipe it off with a clean rag and solvent. The lip of the seal must point toward the front of the engine when installed. Also rotate the seal halves in the block and cap so one end projects approx. 3/8 in. up from the block and cap mating surfaces,and so the seal will fit together within the block and cap when the cap is fitted to the block. Hope this helps,---Chuck
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Unread 02-11-2007   #7 (permalink)
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Hey Greek (Chuck)

I finally got it ~ thanks for all your patience Chuck I really appreciated all the time you spent with this ol' man.

The reason why this site works so well, its becasue of GUYS LIKE YOU CHUCK.

THANKS AGAIN
GOD BLESS

Schooner
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Unread 02-25-2007   #8 (permalink)
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Hi Greek

I finally got it thanks to you.

Here's another situation concerning that: REAR MAIN SEAL PLACEMENT.

I was told that; YOU DON'T PLACE ONE HALF OF YOUR REAR MAIN SEAL ( that's if you have a seal that comes in two pieces like I do )
'SQUARELY' IN THE GROOVE. YOU ' TILT ' THE SEAL SO THAT THE ENDS ARE NOT EVEN WITH THE ENGINE BLOCK AND THE HEAD.

Greek, is that true or is that a better way to installing the rear main seal ? ? ?

Thanks guy
GOD BLESS

Schooner
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Unread 02-26-2007   #9 (permalink)
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Schooner, if you read the last sentence in my last post to you, It says to offset the seal about 3/8 inch. this is what they mean by "tilting" the seal. In other words you will have one end of the seal sticking up from the groove 3/8 in. while the other end of the half will be down inside the groove 3/8 in.. The same thing with the other half of the seal. This just helps keep the seal from leaking at the point where the main cap meets the eng. block surface. Hope this gets matters clearer to you. All the best,----Chuck
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Unread 02-27-2007   #10 (permalink)
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Default Sorry About That Greek

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Greek View Post
Schooner, if you read the last sentence in my last post to you, It says to offset the seal about 3/8 inch. this is what they mean by "tilting" the seal. In other words you will have one end of the seal sticking up from the groove 3/8 in. while the other end of the half will be down inside the groove 3/8 in.. The same thing with the other half of the seal. This just helps keep the seal from leaking at the point where the main cap meets the eng. block surface. Hope this gets matters clearer to you. All the best,----Chuck

Hey Greek

Just as I posted you ~ I suddenly read the last part of your posting about 3/8's tilt. Sorry about this, Ol' guy like me sin't as fast as he use to B . . . lol

Thanks again for ALL YOU HELP.
GOD BLESS

Schooner
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Unread 03-01-2007   #11 (permalink)
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Schooner, no need for apologizing I'm no spring chicken either. It seems that I spend half of my time looking for things I put up for safe keeping only to find out I have hidden them from myself. I don't understand why I can remember something from thirty years ago but can't tell you what I did last week. Call it oldtimer's disease? Take care,---Chuck
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Unread 03-11-2012   #12 (permalink)
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hi guys, i was reading this about the rear main seal, and i have another question: has anybody ever had to cut the ends of the seal halves? mine stick up about a quarter inch on both sides so i cut them off flush with a hacksaw and file. now i see i should uninstall, remove the pin offset, (rotate) and reinstall, correct?
thanks for any help.
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Unread 08-23-2014   #13 (permalink)
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Glad to hear the info on removing the pin for the rope seal. I put the seal in the cap yesterday and didn't remove the pin. I will do that Monday before torqueing the caps. Also a good idea on offsetting the split 3/8 inch. 73 yrs old and learning every day.
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