[Wsovonick]

While researching the possibility of upgrading the front drum brakes on my 65 (I-6) convertible to disk, I've heard some comments about drilling the brake drums as a possible less expensive alternative for better braking while keeping an all-drum system. I found a couple on-line articles about drilling the drums, but I was wondering if anyone has done this or has considered doing this and decided against it. Any comments, pro or con would be appreciated.

Thanks

[The Greek]

The things to consider 1. Is there going to be enough material left on the face of the drums after they've been drilled? 2. Have a compatable master cylinder with the larger 10 inch drum system. 3. Have the correct wheel cylinders for the larger 10 inch brakes. 4. Decide on the width of the brake shoes 1 3/4 in, 2 in, 2 1/4 in, 2 1/2 in. (2 1/4 in, 2 1/2 in for the front). 5. Make sure the drums fit the width of the shoes. 6. Check the distance between the face of the rear axle and the end of the axle tube where the backing plate mounts for fitment issues. 6. Check to see if larger backing plates have fitment issues. There isn't a proportioning valve involved I believe, only a distribution valve, which should be OK as is. The idea of this brake up grade sounds good if it is done properly. I would put a dual reservoir master cylinder in and either TEE in the hydraulic brake light switch of go with a mechanical switch (you'll have to change brake pedal to a 66 design). With a dual master cyl. the distribution valve will have to be up graded for the extra lines. All the best,---Chuck

[krankieone]

Originally Posted by Wsovonick

I found a couple on-line articles about drilling the drums,

do you have any links for this I'd like to know a bit more

[Veronica]

Hello. Bad idea. Drilling them out will not shorten the stopping distance, it just helps with the cooling. Under repeated hard braking, as in on the race track, heat builds up, causing the brake fluid to boil. All of a sudden you don't have any brakes. I've only had that happen to me once on a public access road. We( the family) were in the Smokie Mountains National Park on a scenic motor trail and I had a person in front of me going like 3 miles per hour, so I was riding my brakes for about an hour on this windy mountain road and all of a sudden I didn't have any brakes. That got interesting pretty quick. But, under normal driving conditions brake fade is not an issue. What it will do is weaken the drum, giving it all sorts of good spots for a crack to get started. On drums the pressure is outward so they have a tendency to crack and eventually shatter under ideal circumstances,so helping that shatter process out by giving it ample opportunity to crack can't be a good thing. Good luck.

[The Greek]

When you refer to drilling brake shoes I was under the impression that you wanted to drill the face of the drums so a five lug 10 inch drum would fit a four lug axle.

If you are refering to drilling the original drums for cooling, VERY BAD IDEA.-----Chuck

[Wsovonick]

Here are a couple sites I found on this subject:

http://www.chtopping.com/CustomRod4/

http://www.tffn.net/drilldrum.html

It looks and sounds so easy and simple I suspected that there was a catch, or a downside to this procedure.

Veronica and Greek, thanks for the opinions and suggestions. They have slowed me down enough to think this through a little more carefully. As a relatively new classic Mustang owner, I really appreciate you taking the time to pass along your knowledge and experience.

By the way, I upgraded from a single, to dual bowl last summer when I lost all my brake fluid due to a failed wheel cylinder. Veronica, I know how you felt on that mountain road!

All the best!

Wade

[The Greek]

Wade, thanks for the compliment. In my previous post I made an error in stating drilling the brake shoes, what I meant was drilling the brake drums. ----Chuck

[Wsovonick]

But, you were technically correct on what you thought I was asking

Thanks again!

Wade