66 Roof Rail Weatherstripping - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-30-2014 Thread Starter
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66 Roof Rail Weatherstripping

Howdy,
I'm weatherstripping a 66 Coupe and have researched a lot on this site. But, I still have one question after dry-fitting the rubber on my roof rail. I've attached two pics, hopefully to help me explain.

I can't figure out how closely the weatherstripping is supposed to fit next to the headliner windlace. If I let them touch, it doesn't seem like the window is super tight against it, and there's a very wide space (bottom of drip rail) still remaining on the outter side of the window.

The thing that makes me think that setup is wrong, is the wide piece of "foam rubber" that runs through the window channel (see pic, not sure why it's sideways?). But, if I line up the weatherstrip along that, there's a huge gap between the weatherstrip and the windlace. There are also screw holes all the way along the window channel, but the weatherstrip only comes with the one screw for the tab on the forward end.

Any suggestions?
Thanks!

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'66 Coupe, 5.0, 4R70W
A GT clone in progress.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-30-2014
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There is a stainless steel trim that screws to the car and the rubber mounts in that


You can't fix stupid but a 9mm helps
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-30-2014
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OK, this is a 5 item operation.
1: 3M foam tape.
2: SS roof rail channel
3: Special screws
4: rubber roof rail seal
5: contact cement

I installed mine on a '66 coupe last October. I did a bit of research on the foam tape and found that it is just 3M extra hold, PN 047103, on the shelf at Walmart, was $4.27 a roll. The only problem here is the roll is only 60" long and you need 70", so buy 3. I used a diagonal cut to butt join the ends.

The roof rail channels are very long and not easy to store. You need to find yours. Flat on the top and 2 ribs on the bottom.

You HAVE to use a very flat headed screw. Just get them from Mustangs Unlimited, PR766, $6.95 a set, about page 244. Don't try and use pan heads.

Make sure you have the holes drilled in the car and in the correct locations before the install.

You need a small gap between the SS rail and the 'seam' where the windless goes. I found the front needed 7/8" from seam to screw holes. The top and back needed 3/4". And yes this does effect the sealing of the windows to the rubber.

I put the tape on the SS track first. Make sure you cut the foam out at the screw holes. The foam will just stick to the screw and make a total mess.

I started the install at the back and worked to the front. Pealing the backing off the tape as I went along, about every 12". No rubber seal at this step.

I found that if you insert the seal into the inside lip first, then lay across, then tuck in the outside, it works good. Practice a few times before using the cement. And do not pull on the seal as you go, keep it at ease.

When all was done, I used some black RTV to cover the foam tape edge.

The windows have several adjustments to get the frame snugged up to the rubber. So it does not have to be perfect, just close.
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1968, hardtop, 289, C4, seafoam green.
1966, hardtop, 289, original 3 speed, on the road and fun to drive.
1968, hardtop, 200, 3 speed, in work.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-30-2014
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One point to add about that stainless steel channel you are missing is that if you don't have yours, when I bought mine they weren't reproduced. They are out there to be found, you just have to look. Ebay, craigslist, mustang parts suppliers that have access to bone yards, etc. I bought mine from Mustang Mania, but that was years ago. I've gone to a couple of yards with old mustangs in them and sometimes I've found one, but not the other (I guess I should collect them and sell them!).

2003 V-6 - the usual bolt-ons. Traded for 2012 V-6
2012 V-6 - premium "Pony Package" edition. Leased, so no mods. Traded up for 2013 5.0
2013 5.0 - premium package, visual mods for now.
1965 coupe - Born - straight six standard issue
Now - 5.0 motor, T5 tranny, R&P, full length subframe connectors, Caltracs draglink bars, hedman headers, disc brakes, MSD 6, paxton supercharger, and probably a bunch of other stuff I forgot to mention. It's loud as hell, and my new toy
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014 Thread Starter
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Well, I looked all over today and couldn't find them. I was pretty sure I didn't have them to begin with since I've moved once since disassembling the car and I don't ever recall seeing them around this place. Anyway, I'll have to hunt some down. Thanks for the tips on the install. I'm sure I'll revisit this post once I get the new ones in. But, there goes any hope of getting it water tight. She needs a bath badly!!

'66 Coupe, 5.0, 4R70W
A GT clone in progress.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014
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If you get stuck, you could buy the fastback ones and get them modified at a good mach/welding shop. Or just have them make some. Really just a flat with 2 half rounds to hold the seal.

1968, hardtop, 289, C4, seafoam green.
1966, hardtop, 289, original 3 speed, on the road and fun to drive.
1968, hardtop, 200, 3 speed, in work.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-01-2014 Thread Starter
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FOUND SOME!! There's a Mustang yard about 30 minutes up the road from here. I've lived here 4 years and never been there. So, I stopped by today and had a pair in my hands (along with the screws) in about 10 minutes. At the risk of hijacking my own post, I highly recommend this guy, he knows his stuff, and has A TON of original parts. Lots of them are stored out of the weather. His place is called Matthews Mustang, 501-556-5464. If you want to see his place, Google Map "Rose Bud, Arkansas" and go 1.7 miles south on Hwy 5. You can clearly see his yard of about 100 Stangs.

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A GT clone in progress.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-02-2014 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driveway View Post
I did a bit of research on the foam tape and found that it is just 3M extra hold, PN 047103, on the shelf at Walmart, was $4.27 a roll. The only problem here is the roll is only 60" long and you need 70", so buy 3. I used a diagonal cut to butt join the ends.
Driveway,
Got any more info on that tape? I've searched Walmart site, O'Reilly's site, and a general Google search and nothing is turning up 3M 047103. I'm sure I can find a suitable match, but I need a few more details. I'm assuming it's double sided. The old tape on my car is 7/8" wide and about 1/8" thick (assuming it's original). So, is it polyethylene, acrylice, urethane, or something else? And does it matter?
Thanks!

'66 Coupe, 5.0, 4R70W
A GT clone in progress.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-02-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theshummer View Post
Driveway,
Got any more info on that tape? I've searched Walmart site, O'Reilly's site, and a general Google search and nothing is turning up 3M 047103. I'm sure I can find a suitable match, but I need a few more details. I'm assuming it's double sided. The old tape on my car is 7/8" wide and about 1/8" thick (assuming it's original). So, is it polyethylene, acrylice, urethane, or something else? And does it matter?
Thanks!
Great job on the find, I figured you would be able to find a yard with some in it. As for the tape, if you can't find what was previously mentioned at a local store, I bought mine from Dallas Mustang. I don't remember the part number but if you tell them what you are looking for they can find it for you. And yes it is double sided if I recall correctly.

Tip - with the screws, pre-test them in the drip rail holes in the car. Some will go in straight, others won't. Those that won't, take a small drill bit and straighten the hole. Otherwise if you screw those in, the head won't sit flat. Just push the drill bit in far enough to straighten the hole.

2003 V-6 - the usual bolt-ons. Traded for 2012 V-6
2012 V-6 - premium "Pony Package" edition. Leased, so no mods. Traded up for 2013 5.0
2013 5.0 - premium package, visual mods for now.
1965 coupe - Born - straight six standard issue
Now - 5.0 motor, T5 tranny, R&P, full length subframe connectors, Caltracs draglink bars, hedman headers, disc brakes, MSD 6, paxton supercharger, and probably a bunch of other stuff I forgot to mention. It's loud as hell, and my new toy
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-02-2014 Thread Starter
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1965stang,
Thanks for the tip.

I was test fitting the driver's side earlier today and it doesn't seem like all the holes line up anyway. I'd imagine the holes in the car and the molding are supposed to be in a standard location, or it would make for a difficult production piece. So, I'm not sure why a few of them are not lining up. Any ideas?

I'm not too worried about it though cause no one will ever see the screws, the holes, or the extra holes.

Thanks!

'66 Coupe, 5.0, 4R70W
A GT clone in progress.
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Had to go digging for some old info sheets.

Walmart has the 3M tape.

3M #411, outdoor mounting tape, 10 pounds
still $4.27
UPC 002120047103
Was in the hardware or paint section. You will need 3. Has a address plaque with the number 274 printed on it.
It is still on their web site, but about 4 pages into the mounting tapes.


CJ Pony Parts also has tape in 10 foot rolls for $8.99, and you will need 2.

'Roofrail foam adhesive backed 10 feet 1965-1973'

1968, hardtop, 289, C4, seafoam green.
1966, hardtop, 289, original 3 speed, on the road and fun to drive.
1968, hardtop, 200, 3 speed, in work.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theshummer View Post
1965stang,
Thanks for the tip.

I was test fitting the driver's side earlier today and it doesn't seem like all the holes line up anyway. I'd imagine the holes in the car and the molding are supposed to be in a standard location, or it would make for a difficult production piece. So, I'm not sure why a few of them are not lining up. Any ideas?

I'm not too worried about it though cause no one will ever see the screws, the holes, or the extra holes.

Thanks!
Trying flipping the passenger and drivers side, you might have them backwards (they should line up). Or turn them around. If not, a few extra small holes never hurt anybody. Just don't drill all the way through the roof rail and pop out on the roof. I can't imagine how they aren't lining up though since they fit the other car you took them off of. That's why I'm thinking the orientation is off. Just try each side/each direction before you start drilling holes because you shouldn't have to do that.

2003 V-6 - the usual bolt-ons. Traded for 2012 V-6
2012 V-6 - premium "Pony Package" edition. Leased, so no mods. Traded up for 2013 5.0
2013 5.0 - premium package, visual mods for now.
1965 coupe - Born - straight six standard issue
Now - 5.0 motor, T5 tranny, R&P, full length subframe connectors, Caltracs draglink bars, hedman headers, disc brakes, MSD 6, paxton supercharger, and probably a bunch of other stuff I forgot to mention. It's loud as hell, and my new toy
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Excellent information in this thread, it helped me install new weatherstripping in my '65 Coupe; replacing original weatherstrip that was a bit worn. The good news: no more whistling wind coming through the gaps, the bad news: my doors close VERY tight, so tight that it's sometimes difficult to get them to fully latch (and sometimes when they appear to be latched they pop out when I try to lock the door.)

Follow -on question: did you have to adjust the windows or lock mechanisms to account for the increased thickness of the new weatherstrip or is this just a matter of waiting for the rubber to adjust itself to the car?

Thanks,
Steve
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You'll probably have to readjust to the new weather stripping. I didn't do any of my window adjustments until I had the weatherstripping in.


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Thanks for the quick reply. I was afraid that would be the case.

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