Its a legal thing. Rating cost money first for testing to make sure the parts are good and secondly in legal liability. If your rated part fails everybody and his brother is going to sue you for damages. If an unrated part fails its your problem, not the sellers.
Is a rated part better than an unrated one. Maybe, maybe not. There is no way to tell. But if an unrated part blows up you have no one to blame but yourself.
Ok I see ... I am in France here things are different, it's just forbidden to touch anything from your car....
I don't think 7000 rpm is something dangerous for a steel flywheel ? I won't spin faster since something else would fail I think .. Cylinder wall or conrod.
You have some jumbled questions. I agree with ivy you ,most of the time, get what you pay for and try to limit eBay but not with the same haste. Even if you bought it from summit if something happened they wouldn't be liable you still would be. I would trust the steel first as well. The lighter the flywheel the faster it will spin so to me that has been an advantage..
Me personally, I would not consider turning a stock flywheel anywhere near 7,000 RPM.
Only a good billet steel, SFI rated flywheel would I consider. You'll find them for about $250 and up. You wont get that Cleveland to turn that RPM anyway without some work done to it.
You keep referring to " should I run a lighter one"? Not sure? You state you want a street build. Just where in the RPM range, do you expect to run? Personally, when you mention lighter one, I think of aluminum. Aluminum flywheels, in my opinion, do not belong in a street rod.
This bing stated, A SFI rated steel can be worthy of 7000 RPMs. But, what's the point?
Respectfully commented....
I was not clear in my previous post, for sur I won't spin cast at 7000 rpm. What I am asking myself is , are the steel billet non SFI rated flywheel suitable for 7000 rpm
No, I had a L46 1970 corvette stingray, something really close to the mustang I have it was a 350 as well with 4 speeds.
I have been very frustrated with it as it was really asthmatic passed 4000 rpm but good torque before.
So as I had a head gasket issue with the mustang and as the Cleveland is a bit made to develop a large power band I took the opportunity to prepare it to scream a little bit.
I don't want to stroke or blow it so an easy way to get power is to spin fast and the car will see most of the time road and not street.
well L46 was a junk engine. so for a Cleveland to turn 7000 a lot a work needs to be done. all new forged rotating assembly head work intake work carb work. with all that being said, to your original question, yes sfi is worth the extra money. think of it this way how much is your arm leg or life worth if the flywheel comes apart. also GET a blow proof bellhousing. I have seen a man get his arm cut off by a flywheel coming apart they had to pry his hand off the shifter. rick knows more about what you need to turn it that hard.
What you said is absolutely scaring... how can a part of the clutch cam come to the mans arm ? I thought a flywheel would goe up or down or right or left of your legs ... but not it diagonal onto you...?
What are these blowproof housing ? are the part you put arround the flywheel to protect ?
And about the preparation, I have converted my head to boss rocker system, EPN valves, porting of the quench 4V head, stack rods with ARP bolts and shotpeening, forged pistons, wydendorf lifter bushing kit and Tim Meyer restricting camshaft bearing, induction will be based on the carb I have to choose + an old torker single plane intake.
do not install the front cam bearing very deep otherwise it will expose the massive hole in the cam journal . the oiling hole in this bearing occasionally needs to be widened if you dont install the bearing deep enough so measure before installing.
you may need .060" hole push rods to restrict oil to top end if the hole in your lifter is larger than this.
i would only use a brand name flywheel like mcleod or centerforce . . either of those are good for over 7000 rpm even without an sfi rating.
i would not use a diaphragm pressure plate.
you need hardened tips on stainless valves . . if they are not hardened, you should use lash caps.
i would use push rods that are at least .080" thick.
i also use a hardened pin in the distributor gear or add an extra pin to keep it from shearing.
of course use a high perf oil pump drive.
you might also think about installing a high pressure spring in the oil pump.
there are some newer engine oils out that are pao or mpao based and i would run one of those.
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In any case, thank you for this very informative post.
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