1966 Mustang Ignition Switch Diagram - What Pins are What? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-24-2007 Thread Starter
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1966 Mustang Ignition Switch Diagram - What Pins are What?

Hi All,

I am completely rewiring my 1966 convertible as the prior owner shorted the harness and it fried wires from the ignition switch all the way through the engine compartment. I chose to go aftermarket since the car is being built as "as close to stock as possible" in appearance, but with some modern creature comforts. I am about 80% complete but with the ignition switch terminals.

I have tried to attach the picture on this post. What I need is to identify the terminal pins on the back of the ignition switch - I also posted a picture of the switch at http://www.mvpautoonline.com/photos/...on_Diagram.jpg and I'm hoping to get some help figuring out what is BAT, IGN, ACC, etc, etc.

I plan to trace the old wires next weekend to figure out for sure but thought maybe the group here can help me save some time and get a head start. I have searched all over the web for this info but cannot find it there, or in my original shop manual. I can post the answer on my web site once I have it figured out so that others can benefit from this project.

Thanks in advance for the advice!

MVP


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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-24-2007
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MVP,

This should help:

Vintage Mustang Wiring Diagrams

There is a link to pics of the original wiring diagrams (I have old shop copies of these), and one for ignition. Looks like the switch you have is a bit different (read: more universal) that the original on in the drawings. After looking at this switch, it looks like (your labels in bold): C = C, D = S, B = B, and the post being "A". I will assume the other two tabs are not used for your application. It might be worth the time to sit down at the kitchen table with your new switch, some printouts of the wiring diagram pics, and a volt/ohm meter, and play around with what terminals are open and closed when (ACC, OFF, ON, START), and what the corresponds to on the diagrams.

Now there is an example of an improvement in technology: newer cars have connector blocks that can only go on one way, while we are stuck wondering if our horn will honk when we hit the brakes

Good luck, and feel free to ask more questions!

Michael


1966 289-2V C-4 Convertible. 2nd owner, resurrected rustbucket. Factory console and power top, conversion to P/B with dual res MC.

1990 GT 25th Anniversary 5.0 AOD Convertible. SOLD
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-24-2007 Thread Starter
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Hey Michael,

Thanks for the link to the diagrams. I found them a couple of months back and they are great. Hopefully some others in need can find them here now as well.

I am going to spend some time with my test set and find out what is what. I did learn, according to Mustangs Plus, that the additional male tab (labeled A in my photo) is actually a spare that is provided in case one breaks I can solder this one in its place... sounds funny but but stranger things have happened.

I'll post back what I find out so that I can share results with the "advanced" hobbyists here, and maybe learn something more in the process.

Thanks for getting me started in this direction.

MVP

Last edited by MVP; 09-24-2007 at 08:39 PM. Reason: typo... Doh!
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-24-2007
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MVP,

Figuring out crap like this just takes a lot of patience. I have a 90GT, and going through the wiring diagrams for that is insane. I made photocopies and busted out the highlighters to try and figure out what was going on. No need to be an expert or an electrician, just need some common sense and patience, and you will be fine.

Keep us posted.

Michael

1966 289-2V C-4 Convertible. 2nd owner, resurrected rustbucket. Factory console and power top, conversion to P/B with dual res MC.

1990 GT 25th Anniversary 5.0 AOD Convertible. SOLD
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-10-2008
 
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73 mustang

Do you happen to know how close the wiring diagram of the 1972 mustang you have posted on your vintage mustang page is to a 1973 grande . thanks great site
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-10-2008
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Now might be a good time to put an extra hot wire on the switch for a future power source.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-11-2008
 
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MVP, did you ever figure this out? I am in exactly the same position........
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-13-2008
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not sure if this helps or not.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-13-2008
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Hello. I can't imagine why anyone would need to know this, since you have to destroy the plug that goes into the back of the ignition switch to make use of the information but, the post that is marked 'B' is the accessory position, the post marked 'D' is the start position and the post marked 'C' is the ignition, or On', circuit that plugs into the resistor wire, which goes out to the coil. The post marked 'A' is a switch ground, which isn't used on a Mustang. The gauges and turn signals and stuff that use keyed power from the 'on' position of the switch are attached to the threaded stud on the switch. Hope that helps.
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Thank for the Diagram mate have been looking around for some info as I just got a 66 2 door with no key for ignition.
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our ignition switch fell apart

My son and I have a 66 coupe (200 straight 6). Literally the day we got the car legal, the ignition swith separated from the lock cylinder and fell off behind the dash. What I'm left with is the back of the switch (with all the wires attached), a plastic piece that the cylinder connects to, and two springs.

By the way my switch doesn't look exactly like the diagram at the top of this forum - clearly ours is original.

one of the springs is long and thin and I think it is somehow used to cause the switch to spring back after the car starts. The other is short and fatter, and I think it somehow goes between the plastic piece and the back of the switch. What I can't figure out is how to get it back together, and if I do, will it hold, or should I just buy a new switch?
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Bwd cs52

This is a BWD CS52, as pictured in the first thread. The one I own, has D as power in. C is starter, A is ground, B is on, and the post is on. Also, while the key is in start position the post doesn't have any power. Be sure that what is put on the post doesn't need power while starting the vehicle. Hope this helps anyone like me who came across this thread with the same problem I did.
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