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Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 10-27-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Angry 1973 Mustang - No power to fuse block

I'm working on a 73. I have rebuilt my gauge panel with aftermarket gauges. Before rewiring, I had voltage to the pins in the connector that plugged into the back of the instrument cluster. Now, there's no power anywhere that I can find, ingiyion on or off. I have nothing past the battery cable to the starter relay. Basically, all I did was cut the old pins off and put a new multi-pin connector on. Where do I start diagnosing this?
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Unread 10-27-2007   #2 (permalink)
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Hello. Basically, you would want to start at the battery and work your way in with a volt meter to see where the break is. A couple of things come to mind, though. On a 73, if the fuse box isn't attached with that long screw that goes into the middle of it, you won't have any power.On earlier cars they were just mounted to the car, but starting in 71, they plugged into a connector, so, if it's just hangimg down loose, it won't be getting any power. Also, I believe that the main feed from the starter solenoid to the fuse box is a fuseable link. If that wire blows, you won't have any power. Hope that helps.
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Unread 10-27-2007   #3 (permalink)
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Well, I just removed and replaced the fuse block. All connectors look OK. Tightened center bolt in the fuse block. I rechecked continuity across the fusible links located by the starter relay. Still nothing anywhere. Is anything on the starter relay supposed to have voltage if I disconnect everything except the battery side? Perhaps "I" terminal?
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Unread 10-27-2007   #4 (permalink)
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Getting closer. I figured out that I had also taken an aftermarket voltmeter gauge out when I was replacing existing gauges. The wire to the gauge came off the input side of the starter relay. The wire from the gauge went back to the fusible link connectors in the starting circuit near the starter relay. That's how power was getting to my fuse block originally. That explains why I had no power afterward. So, now I have power, but less than 1 volt on any wire at my gauge pod or at the "S" (or "I") terminal on the starter relay. Now it appears to be something else. This might help a few others that posted similar questions here or elsewhere.
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Unread 10-27-2007   #5 (permalink)
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Well I found the resulting low voltage problem. My test light in my jumper wire was a 72 ohm LED. Being in the jumper it was in effect in series with the starting circuit which left no voltage for running the cars lights. When I overcame my fear of a short and took out the LED my low voltage problem was resolved.

Thanks to Veronica for her reply.
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Unread 10-28-2007   #6 (permalink)
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Hi again. I'm glad you got it figured out. I would have got back with you a little sooner but I was feeding my clan and then watching the baseball game. Electrical problems are really, really annoying.
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