I have a 1968 Mustang with a six cylinder engine. Recently there has been work done on my engine to correct idle and timing. The engine is running well and better compared to the last couple of years. Everything was running fine until two weeks ago when I went to get gas and I tried to turn on the car after filling up. I noticed a hesitation in the starter initiation but the car started up fine and I was able to drive home. Some backstory is about five years ago I had a big problem with starting the car and had to replace the solenoid, starter, alternator, battery, and also replaced the ignition switch. Last week I went to drive the car again and this time the car started up initially fine and then as soon as I put the car into drive and left the parking space the engine cut off. It cut off fast and there was no sputtering. The radio turned off and after a few seconds turned back on again. I was able to start the car automatically again but the engine would keep shutting off every few feet. So basically I drove it around the parking lot that day and had to restart it ten or so times until I parked it for good. This past weekend I drove it through the parking lot again and the the same issues occurred. This time however it wouldn't start up right away until finally it wouldn't start up at all. It was then that I saw smoke coming from under the dash and around the radio. At this point I stopped attempting to turn it on and pushed it back into the parking spot. I took the front dash off and looked at the ignition switch and it had blown into two pieces (and I'm not talking about the pigtail coming off). Safe to say that I'll need to get a new ignition switch and put it on. The problem I am facing is that the ignition switch isn't that old, and also I fear that it might be more of a side effect of a larger issue which is why I am bringing it up here. What do you all think? Does this sound like solely a failed ignition switch, or is something else wrong, and because of that the ignition switch blew? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I'd get out the schematics/wiring diagrams and start checking. First thing, verify that the solenoid is wired correctly (especially since it was replaced). Original harness? Any mods?
When you say the fuses can get pretty nasty do you mean dirt and debris or are you suggesting I might have blown a fuse? I will also take your suggestion and see if the wires are getting cut into within the engine bay when I can look at it again.
I had a problem while doing a ground up restoration on my 66 GT. All wiring and any other electrical components were new. I even bought the Ford sanctioned parts from a long time Mustang supply house and paid a pretty penny for them. My engine was running fine and I had only to paint and assemble to finish. I went to lunch and came back to see a new coil with the top blown off. I did not leave the key on. The so called end result was the starter relay switch shorted and fried the coil. I put in another coil and the old relay switch and everything started fine. Here is where it gets interesting. My voltage regulator also stopped working properly (don't know if this was a coincidence) It caused the new alternator to charge up to 91 volts and lucky nothing burned up. The regulator I identified as the NEW problem of all my instruments pulsing like they were wired to the blinkers. It is now some months later and the car is running and starting fine but surges under a load. As if today I have identified the main or only problem as a set of my duel points gone bad. I suspect that was due to the coil problem. I even put in another coil chasing this problem. Short story. I would look at the starter relay switch. Oh by the way, when I took the switch out and put it on the bench it will now test no short? I have had no further problem with the old relay switch. Happy hunting. Bobby
The relay switch is the starter solenoid right? I replaced the solenoid a few years ago and the wiring and everything is all original but has been working great since. When I replaced the alternator during that time I switched from the 3-wire alternator to the 1-wire which meant no longer hooking it up to the regulator since it was internally regulated. The coil is a few months old and has been looked at by a mechanic not that long ago. I recently had work done on the car at the shop where they looked all around the engine to make it run more smoothly and did not say anything about those parts showing wear and tear. I already ordered a new ignition switch and also a wiring pigtail to connect with it since my old connector was taped to it last time since the locking clips had broken. I will inspect the wires and follow them to the engine bay to make sure nothing is interfering with the connection but all that will have to wait till the weekend or next weekend since I sadly have to store the car at another place than my home.
Not blown fuses, but the wiring on the back of block and the clips holding the fuses. If the car had a water leak in that area they could be a mess. My '66 had that problem, had to rewire the whole thing and decided to move it down to be more accessible.
Although the pics are for show I like it as it demonstrates how Shorts can happen. The one with the wiring shows the Black/Orange wire that was crushed when mounting. Nice place for a short to start.
So this weekend I installed a new Ignition Switch and the car is running fine. The pigtail does have a broken clamp and last time I just kept it taped up but this time I am thinking of getting a new pigtail and splicing the wires. I noticed that the pink resistor wire is also sharing a same connector with the green/red stripe wire which confuses me considering I heard it originates as a pink resistor wire and then turns into a green/red stripe later on through the line. If anyone knows if this is normal or what please help. The pigtails online on CJPonyParts (the place I normally buy my parts) does not show a green/red stripe wire within the same connector as the pink resistor wire. I also heard that there is special insulation with the resistor wire that splicing into would deem useless and defeat the purpose of the wire altogether and if anyone knows if this is a myth or not that knowledge would be greatly appreciated too.
I noticed that the pink resistor wire is also sharing a same connector with the green/red stripe wire which confuses me considering I heard it originates as a pink resistor wire and then turns into a green/red stripe later on through the line...
I also heard that there is special insulation with the resistor wire...
I am not certain which connector you are asking about. The '68 diagram shows the pink wire (color 16A) going all the way to the ignition switch. For the earlier years there was a red-green pigtail (color 16) between the ignition switch and the pink ballast resistor. For either year, when it goes through the firewall the wire becomes a red-green non-resistor wire (again color 16) going to the coil. You may have a new switch that is intended to be used for either year with two wires on the same pin? Only earlier years would use the red-green pigtail???
I know of nothing special about the pink resistance wire insulation except it needs to be able to get a little warm. The coil dissipates about 25W while the engine runs and the ballast resistor another 25W. Normally wires aren't expected to dissipate any power at all. Splicing into it should be like any other wire except you need to put the splice at an end so you either do, or don't use the entire resistance of the wire.
The pink wire is the resistor wire for the coil to keep it from overheating and also to reduce the current through the points so they last longer, if you are still using points and cond. Bad connections cause heat and burn up parts, so your connections should be clean and secure. The coil gets power from two sources, when cranking it comes from the 'I' terminal on the starter solonoid to the coil + terminal, when the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position, then power comes from the RUN terminal on the ignition switch to the pink wire (resistor wire), then I think it changes color, goes through a connector on the firewall to the coil + terminal. My 2 cts. Good Luck.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Ford Mustang Forum
3.7M posts
229.4K members
Since 2001
A forum community dedicated to Ford Mustang owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, modifications, reviews, engine swaps, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!