Auto shifter - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-02-2016 Thread Starter
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Auto shifter

I have this automatic floor shifter on a C4.
After shifting from drive to park I have to give the shifter handle a little bump forward if not it will still creep forward in drive.
I thought, if anything, that it would go into reverse if it was not completely pushed into the park position.
I put a big dent in my beer fridge.
Thank the Lord and Kosmos Spoetzl it's still operational.
Any recommendations or solutions to this problem?
Thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-02-2016
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It may need new bushings, and you might check the linkage to see if there is an adjustment. My 2 cts. Good Luck.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-02-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Makedust View Post
I have this automatic floor shifter on a C4.
After shifting from drive to park I have to give the shifter handle a little bump forward if not it will still creep forward in drive.
I thought, if anything, that it would go into reverse if it was not completely pushed into the park position.
I put a big dent in my beer fridge.
Thank the Lord and Kosmos Spoetzl it's still operational.
Any recommendations or solutions to this problem?
Thanks in advance.
Yeah, you can probably pull the dent out of the fridge with a suction cup for holding glass.


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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-02-2016 Thread Starter
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Replaced linkage grommets and shifter bushings
She shifts good now.
Didn't roll forward, must have been just the momentum of me driving into the garage before.
I did notice a noise coming out of the transmission though, sounds like the oil pump.
It takes a while to go into reverse also.
$1000 transmission rebuild, I think I got jipped.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-03-2016
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Originally Posted by Makedust View Post
It takes a while to go into reverse also.
$1000 transmission rebuild, I think I got jipped.
I cant rememeber if it was the c6 or the c4 but one of those had problems with the sun shell cracking, causing a lack of engagement in reverse. Since most trans shops know how to replace the frictions, steels, filters, fluids and gaskets not many know common problems on these older transmissions or even to look at failure points inside the transmission. I will not say they made a mistake but at that point its a "you get what you pay for" type deal. For $1000 it just sounds like they slapped some new frictions and steels and thats it. Imho i wouldnt take it back to them to "fix" it because they will most likely sell you another $1000 service or just make you buy a reman transmission. Good luck, keep us posted.

I would also make sure your fluid is filled correctly, the shop may of shorted you a few quarts causing your problem.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-03-2016 Thread Starter
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Six month warranty.
I guess I'm out.
The guy sure knew what it was when I took it to him the first time.
Transmission shop that's been around since I was a kid.
It's the #'s matching transmission which is why I had it rebuilt.
I should have just put it in storage and bought a remanufactured one.
Thanks for the info.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-06-2016
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There are several things that can cause slow engagement to reverse, what concerns me more is what transmission fluid was used, it should be ATF type F. Also the fluid level should be correct, drive the car so the transmission gets to normal operating temperature, park on the level, shift through each gear and back to park, make sure it engages each gear before going to the next, once you are in park, leave it running, pull the dipsticks wipe, re-insert, pull and read both sides, the lowest one is where the fluid actually is, if it is low add some, remember from the add make to full is only 1 pint (1/2 quart). It is better to have it a little under the full than to overfill it, overfilling can cause air to be mixed with the fluid, and this causes a multitude of problems. If your level is too high to begin with, then I would, remove the inspection cover on the bell housing, rotate the flexplate until the drain plug for the torque convertor is at the bottom or close, put a drain pan under it and remove the plug, just drain a little out, like if it is maybe a pint overfull, then drain about a pint out, and then put the plug back in. Then recheck the level using the procedure above. Good Luck.
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