2001 Mustang GT problem hooking up. How to reduce wheel spin?
I have a 2001 GT 5 speed with basic bolt ons. I've been having trouble hoooking up in the first couple of gears on stock tires. Any suggestions on pulling out with as little spin as possible?
Ill try to play with the tire pressur...yeah, i have the posi track button but if i leave posi on it takes some power away from the motor if the tires every loose traction.
I am planning on putting wider tires and deep dish wheels on this summer that should help a little.
NOOOOOO NOOOOOO there is no such thing as a posi track button, unless you have lots of money into it, there are actualy remote air "locking" differentials, but what you are talking about is "traction control" which is a totaly different thing. That is a computer controled gismo that senses the wheels spinning and cuts power and....anyway Do both wheels spin when you loose traction, or just the passenger rear?
OK i do have the traction contoll but when it is on the rear passenger tire is the only one that spins so i quess i don't have posi. Sorry, Im kind of new to the modular world.
So that answers your questions though, if you want to hook up better, buy a traction loc diff (around $195) and have it installed (beteen $300-$500 most places) and you will "hook" Way better investment than wider wheels/tires at first. The wide stickies can come later after you get both wheels spinnin.
OK man I'm gonna lay it out for you here. When you race you should have the TC off. The TC applies the brake to stop the tires from spinning. You don't want to have any kind of brakes on when your trying to race. Now when you have the TC off (light will be on) and you stab the gas, what happens? If only 1 tire spins then your differentail needs rebuilt as all GTs have the traction lock(or posi) rear end. If both tires will spin then your ok there you are just giving it too much gas. On street tires you need to kind of squeeze the throttle to keep the tires hooked. I like to drop it or slip it at about 1500-2000 rpm. When it starts to stop spinning start the squeeze as traction allows. It takes practice for sure. Expect at least a 2.2 second 60' time. I've been able to pull some 2.0s before but the track was preped really good. I never bothered messing with the tire pressure on regular tires, you also only need a small burnout. Count 1 thousand 1, 1 thousand 2 and your done. Absolutely no water box for street tires, you will get them too hot and they won't hook at all. Good luck!
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DHG #01434 Bullitt - full JLT intake, MGW shifter, Accel coils (I wish I had 4.10s, o/r H, tune)
Black 89 LX(the drag car) best 8.75 at 80 mph in the 1/8
97 Mountaineer V8 AWD
If you go the traction lock route, make sure a 4 oz. bottle of friction modifier is added to the diff fluid, or you will be re-visiting the shop later on down the road.
Auburn pro is the way to go! My diff gave me the one wheel ordeal after about 90 thousand miles and replaced it with that. also change your upper and lower control arms. I just did it to my car and it can keep up with all wheel drive out of the dig.
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1995 Mustang GTS 5 speed
Cobra R hood, Steeda spoiler, AFS chrome wheels, Eibach springs, MM lower control arms, Full Exhaust, Trick flow intake, Vortech 73 MM mass air 24 lb injectors, BBK 65 throttle body, Auburn pro differential w/ strange 31 spline axels, 3.73's, Nitto 555R's.
AFR 165 street heads installed as soon as I go on leave!
2001 Mustang GT problem hooking up. How to reduce wheel spin? 
