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Old 06-06-2008   #1 (permalink)
streetstang is offline Apprentice

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Default what will it take to run 10.50s

I am just starting to put together my 88gt, starting with cage and subframe connectors from wolfe racecraft, am planing on putting a 351w in. Does anybody have any ideas what kind of combination it will take to run 10.50s. I am keeping the car efi and no power adder. Not sure what combination to use to get proven power. I do not have alot of experience with the 351w. My plan is a 357 with tfs r heads, tfs intake, kooks headers with mac pro dumps, no idea on cam or injectors. All help would be usefull thanks.
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Old 06-06-2008   #2 (permalink)
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Welcome to the site! I'm not familiar with the heads but to run 10.50 they'll need to be a good set with a fairly radical cam. Larger injectors are a must as well as a larger TB and mass air. I don't know how much more you'll need to do to get to that time, but probably more than that.
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Old 06-06-2008   #3 (permalink)
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Running 10.50's without a power adder will require quite a radical 351w. Need more information on other mods that you've done. Are you running a stick or auto tranny? The cage and subframe connectors are a good start in the right direction, but the suspension will also be a key factor toward getting into the 10.50's. It also depends on whether the stang will be a strip only car or strip/street machine.
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‘88 LX Hatchback: 351 stroked to 408 w/4 bolt mains & steel crank, 12.5 :1 forged pistons, Cartech “Bread Box” upper/Edelbrock lower(ported and polished), BBK 75 mm Mass Air w/120 lb injectors, Dart II ported, polished O-ringed 2.02/1.60 heads, Custom Competition Cam hydraulic roller w/Roads lifters, Hypertech custom chip, 1100 hp Aeromotive Competition fuel kit, 9” w/ 4.86’s, Tremec T56 six speed, , Hotchkis performance suspension, 400 shot of nitrous. Passes emissions running E85.
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Old 06-06-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Default what will it take to run 10.50s

I will be putting in wild rides battle boxes adjustable upper and lower control arms, and a wolfe racecraft anti roll bar in the rear. In the front i am installing a tubular k-member with coilovers. i am going to try to keep it a stick as long as possible with a tremec, do not think it will last long but i still have the trans from last car. Parts for motor i am thinking about are as follows. Ford racing block, eagle crank, rods, and ross pistons. tfs r heads, tfs intake. 90 mm t-body, 55lb injectors, full fuel system -8 and -6 return, anderson pms. I am not sure what cam or to use a box upper or just use intake with elbow. My local track run there own version of king of the street that i am planning on running (1/8 mile) so the car will still be street legal but not practical. I would like to be able to run at gateway international raceway some also. BIG project just looking for advice. My last mustang was stock bottom 5.0 tfs heads, cam, edelbrock intake, pro-m 24#, 3.73, daily driver best time 7.27 (1/8) all motor. So this is little more extreme than i have ever built. thanks for help
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Old 06-07-2008   #5 (permalink)
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What I wrote last for some reason didn't post, so I'll just do a bullet version.
·600 hp or power to weight ratio of 6 or less.
·A Tremec 5-spd will not hold up to this much hp. I couldn’t get the tranny to go into the next gear unless I got out of the throttle. Try T56 6-spd
·Custom drive shaft
·3.73’s to tall, will probably need 4.30’s to 4.56’s
·13.5 or higher compression, (No av gas, because it will typically eat up the O2 sensors within a 100 miles. Try E85 with its 105 octane rating
·Bullet proof bottom end
·Remove as much weight as possible from the stang, such as fiber glass hood, etc.
·Port and polished heads as well as intake
·High lift roller cam either hydraulic or mechanical. Most cam manufacturers will suggest a grind based on your setup.
·Customer ECM, such as Hypertech
·9” rearend

I also suggest that you go with a stroked 351. They have a lot more torque, which would provide faster launches as long as the power gets to the ground. Go to http://www.race-cars.net, and select et calculator, which also have other variations. Hope this helps.
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‘88 LX Hatchback: 351 stroked to 408 w/4 bolt mains & steel crank, 12.5 :1 forged pistons, Cartech “Bread Box” upper/Edelbrock lower(ported and polished), BBK 75 mm Mass Air w/120 lb injectors, Dart II ported, polished O-ringed 2.02/1.60 heads, Custom Competition Cam hydraulic roller w/Roads lifters, Hypertech custom chip, 1100 hp Aeromotive Competition fuel kit, 9” w/ 4.86’s, Tremec T56 six speed, , Hotchkis performance suspension, 400 shot of nitrous. Passes emissions running E85.
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Old 06-08-2008   #6 (permalink)
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well a afr set of alum heads,a .650 to .700 lift cam,12or13 to1 on 396 strocker or a 410 strocker winsor. that should get it their.my freind has close to this combo and he runs in 10.30s. hes running c4 a good covertor on a break to.
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Old 01-24-2009   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UBie View Post
Running 10.50's without a power adder will require quite a radical 351w. Need more information on other mods that you've done. Are you running a stick or auto tranny? The cage and subframe connectors are a good start in the right direction, but the suspension will also be a key factor toward getting into the 10.50's. It also depends on whether the stang will be a strip only car or strip/street machine.

Well not sure about the "quite radical 351W" part, but I can tell you I went 10.61 @ 125mph with a 1.40 short time with a flat top 347 11.5-1 CR. Roush 200 heads with some port matching and bowl blending. It had an Ultradyne 585-595 lift, 251-255-dur a .050 flat tappett solid cam with a Victor Jr. What I am trying to say is with the "right" combo it doesnt take a "radical" motor to run this type of #.
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Old 01-24-2009   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cox Racing View Post

Well not sure about the "quite radical 351W" part, but I can tell you I went 10.61 @ 125mph with a 1.40 short time with a flat top 347 11.5-1 CR. Roush 200 heads with some port matching and bowl blending. It had an Ultradyne 585-595 lift, 251-255-dur a .050 flat tappett solid cam with a Victor Jr. What I am trying to say is with the "right" combo it doesnt take a "radical" motor to run this type of #.
first of all welcome to the site.....

i will agree with you, a 351 doesn't have to be super radical to run mid 10's...... a decent H/C/I and some suspension work you are running the number

BTW ....nice setup you are running......
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'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That......
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