[jsusisaliv]

I am building my 85 GT up for drag racing. I currently have a 418 stroker putting out 480 HP all motor and plan on doing a 200-250 wet shot on it. I am currently running a 100 shot but am currently upgrading my tranny to the TKO 600 and strange rear end with C clip eliminator. I need to know what the things I would need to do to handle this kind of HP. I am doing the the tranny, axles, scatter shield, Ford racing 8.8 posi, Ford TA 8.8 girdle, loop & alum driveshaft. What else would be HIGHLY recommended for this sort of HP? I believe I have most of the big things covered? I shooting for 730 CRANK HP which I can easily do with just a change of the nozzles...

[RandyStinchcomb]

nm.............

[RLG34750]

Originally Posted by RandyStinchcomb

nm.............

x2..........

[jsusisaliv]

NM??
Does that mean NOT MUCH or what?? So I don't need to do any more to it or what? I know suspension work is on the table but that is not a must right now correct.
Thanks

[RLG34750]

Originally Posted by jsusisaliv

NM??
Does that mean NOT MUCH or what?? So I don't need to do any more to it or what? I know suspension work is on the table but that is not a must right now correct.
Thanks

at 480 n/a + 100 shot

suspension work should have done long...long...long time ago

just curious what did you do to make all of that n/a horsepower

[jsusisaliv]

Originally Posted by rlg34750

at 480 n/a + 100 shot

suspension work should have done long...long...long time ago

just curious what did you do to make all of that n/a horsepower

Well to make a long story short I actually had a built 302. Just slightly built with 100 shot. I HAVE on the way my built 418 from T&L motors. You can see it here Ford_Windsor_1_Stroker Engines_Crate Motors_Stroker Kits_NC Custom Stroker Engines
And all the rest is in the works ATM.
It is 418 F-1 480 HP 510 Torque but I am adding a few extras to what is listed. Actually about 4 grand of extras but that is only to beef it up like the SVO 4 bolt block and all forged internals flat tappets yadda yadda. Once they build it they break it in for ya "somewhat" then you can either go to the shop for the dyno or they put it on a DVD for ya' to show it will actually do what they claim. Then they slap a 12 month warranty on it. It gets expensive when you start adding this and that but I want it right. They guys at T&L built nascar motors for many years and have really been great so far. Any help in my little endover is appreictaed. Best places to buy ETC ETC. YOu will see me on here a little more often.
Thanks much

[RLG34750]

So your $5500 motor is costing almost 10K

it's funny how that happens......

please keep us posted with the progress

there is lot of knowlege on this site so i'm sure you will get all the help you can handle....

Good luck with the build......

[jsusisaliv]

Yeah around 10K in just the motor. Go figure.. I really did not plan on spending that kind of cash on just the engine but you know how it goes, Man I will REALLY need this and If I want this I will need to do this and in the future if I don't do this then I will not be able to do this LOL.. I was going to do the dart block upgrade 2K but LUCKILY I found a brand new SVO 4 bolt block for 1600 shipped which is a lighter block and will withstand over 1000 RWHP and they don't even make them any more. I will for sure keep everyone posted to those who are interested, I hope it is all I dremed it would be. It is going to be a huge step up from what I had. I was pushing 300 RWHP with 100 shot of nitrous and I thought I was FAST. At least it felt really fast. Thanks and I should have the engine the first week in Aug and will shoot some pics etc of the motor change.

[black5.0]

you might want to get a cage if your planning on go to the track

[jsusisaliv]

NO CAGE FOR ME!
I know some people would call me stupid but I want to keep the car clean and I don't want to chop it up. It's a very clean 85 and I want to keep it nice and street worthy. I live here in TN close to pigeon forge and we have huge rod runs there all the time and I love to go show off there. It is not going to be a huge track car mostly show and go street car and a few days out of the year at the track. Even at the track I am not going to completly pound on it, it's all for fun!!

[streetstang]

I would be upgrading the suspension and chassis before i even put the engine in or all you would have is a car for a burnout compition. Take a look at the wolfe race craft web site they have sell good stuff

[RLG34750]

Originally Posted by streetstang

I would be upgrading the suspension and chassis before i even put the engine in or all you would have is a car for a burnout compition. Take a look at the wolfe race craft web site they have sell good stuff

I agree with above also based on what going under the hood the following will change your mind.....Maybe...

A roll bar is required in any convertible running 13.49 seconds or quicker in the quarter mile, and in other cars beginning at 11.49. The roll bar is accepted in vehicles running as quick as 10.00 second e.t., provided the stock firewall and floorboard is intact, other than for installation of wheel tubs. The rollbar must be constructed of minimum 1 ¾ inch o.d. x .118 inch wall mild steel tubing, or 1 ¾ x .083 chrome moly tubing,

http://www.nhra.com/images/rollbar.gif

If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. A full roll cage is required in any vehicle running 9.99 seconds or quicker, and any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing,

http://www.nhra.com/images/rollcage.gif

The roll cage of any vehicle running 9.99 or quicker, or 135 mph or faster, must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years, and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation.

[jsusisaliv]

Originally Posted by rlg34750

I agree with above also based on what going under the hood the following will change your mind.....Maybe...

A roll bar is required in any convertible running 13.49 seconds or quicker in the quarter mile, and in other cars beginning at 11.49. The roll bar is accepted in vehicles running as quick as 10.00 second e.t., provided the stock firewall and floorboard is intact, other than for installation of wheel tubs. The rollbar must be constructed of minimum 1 ¾ inch o.d. x .118 inch wall mild steel tubing, or 1 ¾ x .083 chrome moly tubing,

http://www.nhra.com/images/rollbar.gif

If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. A full roll cage is required in any vehicle running 9.99 seconds or quicker, and any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing,

http://www.nhra.com/images/rollcage.gif

The roll cage of any vehicle running 9.99 or quicker, or 135 mph or faster, must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years, and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation.

Yeah I knew about the roll cage requirements "somewhat" but not as specific as you stated but our track we run at 411 speedway seems to turn there heads to this somewhat for my firend runs a ls1 and does "I think" low 11's. and his car is basicly unchopped and no roll bar. I am working on the MUST'S along with the install. I am putting upper and lower control arms, torque box and Subframe connectors for now then I will start with the rest of the suspension as time and $$ allows and enjoy the burnouts. as for the rearend I have the ford racing 373 gears in it and a ford racing alum girdle slapped on it. I hope it holds out. I heard the ford 8.8 is an anvil. Any thoughts? I just hope I don't bust it......

[RLG34750]

My 8.8 has held up to 500 hp and being slapped with a 200 shot from time to time....

contrary to popular belief the 8.8 is almost as strong as a 9" when set up right...

[btiller13]

at least a 8 point cage. subframe connectors battle boxes adj. control arms upper and lower. spool if you dnt have one and axles will be a good start