Tryed the 3.73's at the track today, weird numbers and a few questions...
I installed 3.73 gears, where I use to have 3.27, with no other changes....
My 60 ft times went from 2.29 to 2.37
330 ft times went from 6.714 to 6.756
and from the 1/8th mile and out, Im seeing a improvement.
(I would sure HOPE SO!)
These numbers are a average of 8 runs.
Why would I be slower off the line?
Also whats a good next step to improve the times across the board?
the RT's are all improving, but all the lower numbers are dropping....
Keep in mind this is my 3rd time out on a STOCK 95 GT, right down to a paper air cleaner, other than the 3.73's and drag radials
2.i know the air cleaner is restricting
so with the new gears winding the motor up quicker therefore its probally running a little rich
due to the lack of air
3. weather conditions changed
4. Get a good CAI & more seat time.....
__________________
Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
The Drag Radials I have are only like 5 weeks old
(MT Drag Radials 275/50-15 @15psi)
I havent noticed any wheel spin on the launch to really speek of...
f you're not spinning then the chance is that the rpm you're launching at is too low. Watch the tach and see if the engine immediately responds during the initial launch. If not, increase the launch at 1000 rpm increments until the tires fail to hook.
However, if the tires aren't hooking, then you have a weight transfer problem. My stang will pull the front wheels, and I'm running BF Drag radials 275/60-15.
Last thing - if you can hear a chirp from the tires, you've lost some ET.
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‘88 LX Hatchback: 351 stroked to 408 w/4 bolt mains & steel crank, 12.5 :1 forged pistons, Cartech “Bread Box” upper/Edelbrock lower(ported and polished), BBK 75 mm Mass Air w/120 lb injectors, Dart II ported, polished O-ringed 2.02/1.60 heads, Custom Competition Cam hydraulic roller w/Roads lifters, Hypertech custom chip, 1100 hp Aeromotive Competition fuel kit, 9” w/ 4.86’s, Tremec T56 six speed, , Hotchkis performance suspension, 400 shot of nitrous. Passes emissions running E85.
Iv tryed lanching from 1500 to 3000 rpm and I get very little change.
I though I may be lanching at to high of rpm and not "Flashing" the converter...I beleave thats the term I was reading about here...
Im not new to this, Iv done Mud Drags for several years, Im only new to the mustang and not having to pressure wash something for 6 to 8 hours afterwards
It may me weather conditions....
Both times I ran 1/4 mile, its been in the mid to upper 80's
For what its worth....aprox 500' above sea level.
ET STREET™ AND ET DRAG® AIR PRESSURE GUIDELINES PROPER AIR PRESSURE
Proper air pressure is critical to the best performance of your ET Drag or ET Street racing tires. Recommending air pressure is not easy, since there are so many variables that affect it: i.e. weight distribution, transmission, chassis set-up, wheel size, etc. To help you, we have broken down the types of vehicles into the following six categories with a recommended starting point for the correct air pressure. Keep in mind that these are only starting points. Actual optimum air pressure may vary significantly. If you have been running another brand of slick on your racecar, we generally recommend you start with the same air pressure you were running and go up in ˝ pound increments until you get the best performance. Most racers will usually end up with ˝ to 2 pound more air pressure in a Mickey Thompson tire. Note: Many racers feel that "Less is Better" with regard to air pressure. This is not always the case. While there are exceptions to every rule, we have found higher pressure generally works best with Mickey Thompson Tires. Not only do the higher pressures lead to quicker times, but they also contribute to a safer, more stable ride at the finish line.
ET DRAG® AND ET STREET™ VEHICLE WEIGHT
TIRE SIZE
AIR PRESSURE
UNDER 2,500 POUNDS UNDER 2,500 POUNDS
UNDER 30" DIAMETER OVER 30" DIAMETER
6 P.S.I. AND UP 4 P.S.I. AND UP
2,500 TO 3,000 POUNDS 2,500 TO 3,000 POUNDS
UNDER 30" DIAMETER OVER 30" DIAMETER
8 P.S.I. AND UP 6 P.S.I. AND UP
OVER 3,000 POUNDS OVER 3,000 POUNDS
UNDER 30" DIAMETER OVER 30" DIAMETER
16 P.S.I. AND UP 10 P.S.I. AND UP
ET DRAG RADIALUNDER 2,500 POUNDS UNDER 2,500 POUNDS
UNDER 30" DIAMETER OVER 30" DIAMETER
16 P.S.I. AND UP 12 P.S.I. AND UP
2,500 TO 3,000 POUNDS 2,500 TO 3,000 POUNDS
UNDER 30" DIAMETER OVER 30" DIAMETER
16 P.S.I. AND UP 12 P.S.I. AND UP
OVER 3,000 POUNDS OVER 3,000 POUNDS
UNDER 30" DIAMETER OVER 30" DIAMETER
16 P.S.I. AND UP 12 P.S.I. AND UP
<LI class=style3>When working with ET Drag Radials use 1 psi adjustments to see change. <LI class=style3>A radial will perform quicker the more air you can run.
The burn out should begin once the rear tires are completely out of the water box.
ET STREET RADIAL
On the racetrack DO NOT use starting pressures below 11 psi.
Recommend pressures for: P295 and larger sizes: 11-14 psi P275 and smaller sizes: 12-16 psi
Mickey Thompson also recommends that you invest in a good tire pressure gauge and that you keep accurate and complete records of each pass. This will aid you in becoming a consistent performer.
__________________
Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
yeah, ET streets and ET Drags are not "Drag Radials" like the BFGs I bought. My BFG "Drag Radials" have a factory rec. pressure much higher than 15 psi.
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Quarter Pounder
'93 LX Coupe; 2.3L swap
COBRA CLONE: GT40Ps, 1.7 rollers, Explorer intake & TB; 24 pounders, long tubes; X pipe; dumps; pullies; filter etc.
it also sounds to me like you mite be spinning a little.keep in mind a half to a full turn of the tire your not going to feal or hear in the car.looking at your times i would say your loosing about a full turn of the tires.i have had the same problems in the past going from a 1.28 60ft to a 1.33,1.35 60ft. the only way to really find out if its happining is to have a bud watch or tape the launch. then make a tire pressure adjustment or suspention change.