Excellent thread. The only thing I didn't read about was the Deep staging. One very important thing newbies forget is, Slicks will require you to have a Driveshaft loop. I've seen some tracks make you have them for any drag race type tire also.
Deep staging is not really used much except by bracket racers, and I believe that this article tailors towards the drag racing noobs and deep staging is more of an advanced thing.
Also per NHRA rules you need a Driveshft loop if you are running drag radials or slicks so that I one thing you need to watch out for.
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Deep staging is not really used much except by bracket racers, and I believe that this article tailors towards the drag racing noobs and deep staging is more of an advanced thing.
When it comes to bracket racing deep staging is an advantage. The art of deepstaging is much easier learned upfront as a noobs rather that having to re-learn it after several years of racing. It's hard to unlearn bad habbits.
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'07 Ford Mustang GT Alloy Metallic
4.6 Auto, 3.73 gears, C&L CAI, Diablo 91 octane tune, drag radials, and a saftey loop. What else do I need for a 14 second bracket car?
When it comes to bracket racing deep staging is an advantage. The art of deepstaging is much easier learned upfront as a noobs rather that having to re-learn it after several years of racing. It's hard to unlearn bad habbits.
but there a bigger chance of red lighting....
my personal opinion keep them both lit and drive the car.....
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Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
my personal opinion keep them both lit and drive the car.....
Actually there's a less chance of going red deep staged. Shallow your anticipating the light, deep your actually going when you see the yellow. Deep your lights will be more consistant because your reacting to the light.
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'07 Ford Mustang GT Alloy Metallic
4.6 Auto, 3.73 gears, C&L CAI, Diablo 91 octane tune, drag radials, and a saftey loop. What else do I need for a 14 second bracket car?
Actually there's a less chance of going red deep staged. Shallow your anticipating the light, deep your actually going when you see the yellow. Deep your lights will be more consistant because your reacting to the light.
if you say so......
i don't agree but if it works for you......
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Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
Video tape your launch and the tree shallow staged. Your car will be moving before the 3rd amber. Another way to put your car on a pro .500 tree. If you’re not anticipating the light your reaction times should be the same as a sportsman tree. You may think your shallow staging off the 3rd amber but you’re actually guessing. It takes a lot of work to mentally block out the tree coming down and actually go when the amber comes on. I say that shallow stage guessing is more prone to go red than deep staged launching on a precise visual queue.
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'07 Ford Mustang GT Alloy Metallic
4.6 Auto, 3.73 gears, C&L CAI, Diablo 91 octane tune, drag radials, and a saftey loop. What else do I need for a 14 second bracket car?
Bracket racing a stick is a bit different. A clutch dump is like using a trans brake in an automatic. If your dumping and hooking then I would have to say that you have a true shallow car. I also want to state that is very difficult to be competitive bracket racing a stick. I campaigned a stick for 3 years. Final year I kept detailed notes and "root cause" for 90% of my losses was due to the stick shift. And it wasn't just missed shifts. A stick is hard to stage and dial-in are a guess. 60' consistancy is a sometime’s thing. Went to a turbo 400 and never looked back.
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'07 Ford Mustang GT Alloy Metallic
4.6 Auto, 3.73 gears, C&L CAI, Diablo 91 octane tune, drag radials, and a saftey loop. What else do I need for a 14 second bracket car?
this is a very good thread it helps out alot nice job. as for 5 speed sticks not being consistant i did pretty well taking 2nd in high school nationals with a stick and the was bracket.
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Video tape your launch and the tree shallow staged. Your car will be moving before the 3rd amber. Another way to put your car on a pro .500 tree. If you’re not anticipating the light your reaction times should be the same as a sportsman tree. You may think your shallow staging off the 3rd amber but you’re actually guessing. It takes a lot of work to mentally block out the tree coming down and actually go when the amber comes on. I say that shallow stage guessing is more prone to go red than deep staged launching on a precise visual queue.
Hey Kazman; This is his first time to the track, deep staging will be more prone to see a red light, then shallow staging. Think about it, he has no experience drag racing. So if he goes in deep, you just shortened his launch space so he's definetly going to turn on the red light. He has a stock 5.0, and AOD set up, no trans brake or hole shot converter. He's better shallow staging, until he gets the nack for it and understands how the tree works. I have always run off a pro-tree .400, and always staged inbetween sometimes deep. But that would always hurt your ET deep staging, good for your reaction time. I've run many different classes over the years, from bracket racing in the 11's to top fuel funny car, in the mid 5's that was many years ago. I still build them, it just takes a little longer due to my disability. But I've been playing with FAST CARS, for over forty years and when I use to run on a pro-tree my reaction times were consistent. When that first amber light lit, I was gone and had many screwed-up red lights as they call it when your that close to going red, or should I say having a perfect light. He has a lot to work on, but the main thing is being safe, and having a good time, Mike SCT Tuner.
Hey Kazman; This is his first time to the track, deep staging will be more prone to see a red light, then shallow staging. Think about it, he has no experience drag racing. So if he goes in deep, you just shortened his launch space so he's definetly going to turn on the red light. He has a stock 5.0, and AOD set up, no trans brake or hole shot converter. He's better shallow staging, until he gets the nack for it and understands how the tree works. I have always run off a pro-tree .400, and always staged inbetween sometimes deep. But that would always hurt your ET deep staging, good for your reaction time. I've run many different classes over the years, from bracket racing in the 11's to top fuel funny car, in the mid 5's that was many years ago. I still build them, it just takes a little longer due to my disability. But I've been playing with FAST CARS, for over forty years and when I use to run on a pro-tree my reaction times were consistent. When that first amber light lit, I was gone and had many screwed-up red lights as they call it when your that close to going red, or should I say having a perfect light. He has a lot to work on, but the main thing is being safe, and having a good time, Mike SCT Tuner.
Sorry for the lateness of this reply. I agree SAFE AND HAVE FUN.
If a person in going to bracket race then lights are critical. If he leaves on the actual 3 amber there is no way the will be able to cut a competive light with a stock 5.0 and auto. The car isn't going to leave that hard. I do agree first 20 passes should be shallow just to get some practice getting the car down the track. After that just go deep and shave years off of the learning curve. Its easier to launch from a pro .400 or .500 tree. The lights coming down on a .500 sportsman are optical delusions. Insteasd of hitting the 3rd amber when the light is actually on one has a tendecy to hit it early due to the rythem of the tree.
As far as going red on a pro tree just slow the car's reaction a bit by dropping launch rmp, tire pressure, staging location , etc.
Set the car up for a RT with the understanding that a driver will have a +- window. Say I (the driver'r reaction only) have a window of .050. I set the car up to cut a .025 light. I know I will be .00x to .05x. I know I most likely won't be red but may cut a .059 light. This is my safe setting because I know I will be green most of the time. If I feel that I need a killer light in a round, I will lauch 300rmp higher which will move the car to a .010 RT. My window will be -.01x to .03x. Either really good or dead and red. Likewise if I feel anything green will get the win I will lower the launch by 300rmp moving the car's ET to .040. This will move my window really away from red anywhere between .01x to a .07x. Being able to do this is advanced bracket racing. This is the goal where even a newbe's need to be heading. It took me 1.5 years to unlearn the 5 years of doing thing say in a non-productive way. Again I trying to provide some help to people who want to learn bracket racing. Be safe and have fun.
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'07 Ford Mustang GT Alloy Metallic
4.6 Auto, 3.73 gears, C&L CAI, Diablo 91 octane tune, drag radials, and a saftey loop. What else do I need for a 14 second bracket car?
I live in the UAE (United Arab Emirates) in Abu Dhabi. Some kids have so much money here, two project cars and a daily driver, Veyrons, Ferraris, all kinds of Mustangs and Shelbys . . . but no drag strip. So many straight roads between street lights and most totally limited access, like runways!
Any night along these limited access streets there is action at the lights. If you were born too late to take in the California cruising scene of the 1960's you need to visit Abu Dhabi! It's all on display here.
i have a question on the burnout, i had street tires on before so i never did one at the track. i now have mickey thompsons on my 01 5spd gt and was wondering if i even have to do a burnout or if they should stick fine without one, if i have to do one do i just back up into the waterbox to get my back tires wet, pull forward and do the burnout? thanks
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