Here are my times at Columbus Dragway today, it was about 75* and fairly humid, 1/8 mile track, BF Goodrich G-Force Sports up front and Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials in the rear, 75 shot of spray at times...
# Reaction 60ft MPH ET Driver
1 1.494 2.515 69.44 10.380......(me, no spray)
** what do these times tell you exactly?
** i know i was spinning a lot, partly because i didn't know how to do a proper burnout, any help?
** how can i improve on these numbers when it comes to driving?
** my friend told me i should be shifting at 6K, but that seems really high to me, any thoughts?
** he also said that because i was letting off the throttle to shift, i wasn't giving the nitrous enough time to hit again after i hit WOT (throttle activated ZEX)
** i started off dumping the clutch around 4K, but then, on advice, i backed it down to launching at 3K, any thoughts on that?
i did have a lot of fun and learned a lot about my car and my driving (in)abilities, i also got 3 offers from people to buy my car, one guy offered $5500 after seeing it perform and looking it over, what do you think about that?
You need to try and get off of the line much better your car should be 60 ft. 1.9's, either you're being too agressive off the line or you have to fumble with the tire pressure on the mickey t's. What did you have your pressure set at by the way? Try slipping the clutch instead of dumping it outright too and I would say to try shifting at 5500 with your ride and see how it responds. It's hard to say exactly where to shift not knowing your cam profile but it won't really matter anyways if you're running stock heads still so I'll say 5500.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HogDriverWanabe
i did have a lot of fun and learned a lot about my car and my driving (in)abilities, i also got 3 offers from people to buy my car, one guy offered $5500 after seeing it perform and looking it over, what do you think about that?
That's what it's all about bro, the more you drive it the quicker you'll go without adding any other mods.
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93 LX 2.3 to 5.0 conversion. 60% of the time it works every time.
VTEC - All the lag of a turbo............None of the boost
If its Fast and reliable, it ain't cheap.
If its Cheap and reliable, it ain't fast.
If its Fast and cheap, it ain't reliable.
after the first run my friend lowered the pressure in the rears to 15psi... the heads aren't stock, i just haven't run the casting numbers yet to figure out what they are
a couple guys at the track think the car is putting out around 300+ rwhp if that helps any in decoding the numbers
Na it doesn't help to be honest but, that's fine for now like I said we're just goin to concentrate on your technique in getting down the track. A good burnout is pretty important in getting the tires to hook bro so try and practice that a bit as well. Next time just try to get it off the line consistently before you mess too much with the shift points, I know it kinda contradicts what I said earlier but we're trying not to introduce too many variables right now.
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93 LX 2.3 to 5.0 conversion. 60% of the time it works every time.
VTEC - All the lag of a turbo............None of the boost
If its Fast and reliable, it ain't cheap.
If its Cheap and reliable, it ain't fast.
If its Fast and cheap, it ain't reliable.
That got taken out of context Reg my b we were both typing at the same time, I was referring to him asking if the hp numbers helped any in decoding what type of heads he had. I'm an a$*hole but not that big of one , well according to my wife anyways.
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93 LX 2.3 to 5.0 conversion. 60% of the time it works every time.
VTEC - All the lag of a turbo............None of the boost
If its Fast and reliable, it ain't cheap.
If its Cheap and reliable, it ain't fast.
If its Fast and cheap, it ain't reliable.
my car runs 8.8@80 with 230rwhp, with the same rear tires, I cut 1.9's usually, so if u have 300rwhp, u need alot more practice, and do a lil burnout to clean them off.
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1988 mustang 5.0 LX, Edelbrock performer manifold, mac headers, off road H with high flow cats welded in, AC/smog eliminator, frpp 9mm wires, bbk CAI, msd cap and rotor, Flowmasters dumped, steeda tri ax, 3.73 gears, and mickey thompson DR's 13.91@101
1983 pontiac grand prix, weekend car, 355sbc 11.5.1, world heads, forged internals, th-400 with transgo shift kit, 8.5 rear with 4.56's and auburn posi unit, 11.96@115 on et streets. (SOLD)
what is a window switch? and since i am asking i am assuming i don't have one??... any advice on how to do the burnout better, i wasn't having a lot of luck getting them to spin in the water, and then when i pulled up, all i did was dump the clutch a couple times and let em spin, no braking... every time i tried to release the clutch and slam on the brake it just started turning to the right or would shut off entirely...
thanks for all the replies and info so far, i very much appreciate any help i can get
oh, yeah... i could only do about two runs in a row down the track before my temp started reading about 220-230... it usually runs about 180-190... when i opened the hood the radiator would be almost empty and the overflow bottle almost full... the guys at the track said the radiator i have is perfect for racing so there's no need to change that... after the last run it hit 230 so i drove it home and after about 3 minutes at 60mph it was down to 190 again... any ideas?
That got taken out of context Reg my b we were both typing at the same time, I was referring to him asking if the hp numbers helped any in decoding what type of heads he had. I'm an a$*hole but not that big of one , well according to my wife anyways.
thats probally what happen .....
no i think we are one the same page .....
there was a lot of comments about shift points and tire pressure
my point was to work on one element at a time.....
as we all know the most important thing is to launch the car.....
if you can get get the 60' down everything else is a piece of cake
BTW Will, i don't think you are an hole you are always one of the first to jump in to give good advice and accurate info.....
the temp seems ok you may want to invest in a fan for the track
you really should cool the car down between passes....
what is a window switch? and since i am asking i am assuming i don't have one??... any advice on how to do the burnout better, i wasn't having a lot of luck getting them to spin in the water, and then when i pulled up, all i did was dump the clutch a couple times and let em spin, no braking... every time i tried to release the clutch and slam on the brake it just started turning to the right or would shut off entirely.
First off, I always just go around the water, what happens when you go through is you usually track water up to the line with you because of your radial front tires. Now the way I learned on how to do a burnout was from an old Hot Rod magazine it's a little awkward at first but you'll get the hang of it eventually. Have the clutch pushed in with your left leg, than you want to have your right foot heel on the brake and the tip of your foot on the gas pedal. Apply more pressure to the brake than the gas to hold the car. Once your revs hit about 4-4,500 rpm's dump the clutch and whalla! Only do a burnout until you notice some smoke looking into the side rear view mirror, you don't want to burn the hell out of them because all you're doing is wasting rubber regardless of what most people will say only enough to clean them off and put some heat into them.
__________________
93 LX 2.3 to 5.0 conversion. 60% of the time it works every time.
VTEC - All the lag of a turbo............None of the boost
If its Fast and reliable, it ain't cheap.
If its Cheap and reliable, it ain't fast.
If its Fast and cheap, it ain't reliable.
awesome, thanks for the info on the burnout... i might try it on a back road or parking lot somewhere this week...
for the window switch, i get that it is used to turn on and off the nitrous, but if i get it, how should i wire it up, something about it being ground activated and deactivated? how would that work with the zex and with the throttle activated switch? would i have to remove the throttle activation?
oh, and what is the factory rev limiter and how do i know what my rev limit is?
First off, I always just go around the water, what happens when you go through is you usually track water up to the line with you because of your radial front tires. Now the way I learned on how to do a burnout was from an old Hot Rod magazine it's a little awkward at first but you'll get the hang of it eventually. Have the clutch pushed in with your left leg, than you want to have your right foot heel on the brake and the tip of your foot on the gas pedal. Apply more pressure to the brake than the gas to hold the car. Once your revs hit about 4-4,500 rpm's dump the clutch and whalla! Only do a burnout until you notice some smoke looking into the side rear view mirror, you don't want to burn the hell out of them because all you're doing is wasting rubber regardless of what most people will say only enough to clean them off and put some heat into them.
This is exactly how I do my burnouts. Well except my right foot is heel on gas, toe on brake, but still it's the same.
I also have the M/T drag radials and usually run them around 18 lbs. I've tried less pressure, but around 18 seems to work best for me.
One nice thing at my track is nobody drives through the water. They have a barrier behind the water box and you have to drive around it then back in to the water. The last thing you want is to drag water up to the line.
I will also agree that you should work on your launch first as there is a lot of room for improvement there. Try to only make one change at a time so you can tell what works and what doesn't. You should be able to get your 60's down below 2.0, and maybe a good bit below that.
The only way to get better is to keep going to the track as often as possible.
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OFR - old fart racing
We're not the fastest car at the track but we might be having the most fun.
If you're not having fun, then you're taking this stuff too seriously!
awesome, thanks for the info on the burnout... i might try it on a back road or parking lot somewhere this week...
for the window switch, i get that it is used to turn on and off the nitrous, but if i get it, how should i wire it up, something about it being ground activated and deactivated? how would that work with the zex and with the throttle activated switch? would i have to remove the throttle activation?
oh, and what is the factory rev limiter and how do i know what my rev limit is?
ok the factory rev limiter is in the cars computer....
i belive it is set 6250 rpm....
if you hit the limiter it will sound and feel like some one pulled a plug wire...
now for a piece of advice i know you have n2o.....
but for next few times at the track you need to work on launching the car without the bottle .....
i know you want to go fast.....
without the bottle you will be able to hit your shift points and work on getting that 60' down....
trust me it works.....
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Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
Back from the Track... First time, whatcha think? 
hole you are always one of the first to jump in to give good advice and accurate info.....
