Back from the track with improvement from the last time !!!
so, i'm back from the track again and have some much better results... my 60' time went from about 2.5 two weeks ago down to a consistent 2.0... i dropped the clutch at 3500 instead of 4500 and that helped a lot, still some work to be done since i was still spinning out pretty good...
my ET went down to 9.7 consistently with no spray (down from about 10.3 with spray two weeks ago [1/8mile])... i did notice that my MPH went down with each run i did today even though my ET and 60' time were also decreasing, that seemed odd... but the techniques you guys gave me were great
i got the burnout thing down pretty good now, but there is one problem, according to my friend, my left tire is not spinning during the burnout, only the right... any ideas as to why and what i can do?
i am installing subframe connectors this week before i go back to the track, what will those do for me on the time slips?
You can either have your limited slip rebuilt (cheapest route) or you can go with an aftermarket rearend from auburn, eaton, etc. It'll cost more but they're a good upgrade, but not mandatory. Ford racing sells a rebuild kit for the trac lok with new carbon fiber clutches for under 100 bucks I beleive. Just so you know I'm currently running that setup and it has performed fine for over a year now, but everyone has their own preferences, I stuck with mine because I'm broke as hell . The subframe connectors will help stiffen up the body quite a bit. They may not exactly translate into better times but depending on how long they are and whatnot they can also support the lower control arm torque box from ripping out and also help prevent cracks in the floorpan.
__________________
Single Cam Hatch
VTEC - All the lag of a turbo............None of the boost
If its Fast and reliable, it ain't cheap.
If its Cheap and reliable, it ain't fast.
If its Fast and cheap, it ain't reliable.
so, i'm back from the track again and have some much better results... my 60' time went from about 2.5 two weeks ago down to a consistent 2.0... i dropped the clutch at 3500 instead of 4500 and that helped a lot, still some work to be done since i was still spinning out pretty good...
my ET went down to 9.7 consistently with no spray (down from about 10.3 with spray two weeks ago [1/8mile])... i did notice that my MPH went down with each run i did today even though my ET and 60' time were also decreasing, that seemed odd... but the techniques you guys gave me were great
i got the burnout thing down pretty good now, but there is one problem, according to my friend, my left tire is not spinning during the burnout, only the right... any ideas as to why and what i can do?
i am installing subframe connectors this week before i go back to the track, what will those do for me on the time slips?
you need to rebuild your differential....no biggie
yes subframes will help .....
they eliminate the body flex thus transferring that torque to the rear wheels
There is a BUT.....
you will have to adjust you launch technique.....
because more power will be getting to the tires therefore a better chance of wheel spin....
with a car for every action there shall be a reaction.....
good job on dropping your 60' times....
__________________
Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
i'm assuming that the 8.8 is supposed to have posi and mine is just broke, or is there a chance mine doesn't have posi?
if i bought the repair kit, is that something i can do myself or should i go with the full differential?
how will this work with my 3.73 gears?
what does it mean when it says 31 spline axle required?
yes it is something you can do yourself.....
it very common for the posi unit to need rebuilding
a stock axle is 28 spline .....
a 31 spline axle is stronger version....
but you would have to change the differential....
here is how to rebuild your t-lok
Traction-lok rebuild:
A brief traction-lok description: The t-lok, IMHO, is a very simple yet effective method of torque transmission. It uses a combination of frictions and steels; the steels spline to the O.D. of the side gears (the I.D. is splined to accept the axles), and the frictions keyed to the differential case (driven by the ring gear) with tangs. An S-spring is used to provide initial clamping load, then is supplemented by the outward forces created and transmitted by the pinion gears.
If you plan to rebuild the traction-lok, it is advisable that you do it now, for a couple of reasons: 1. Going to a numerically higher gear ratio, the pinion diameter goes down, and the ring gear thickness goes up. What does this really mean? The S-spring "gap" between the side gears is partially blocked (straight line of sight) by the thicker ring gear (you can still get the spring in, it's just a bit tougher). 2. Without the ring gear, you can support the differential case by the flats (across the clutch cavity) on a block of wood, while driving the S-spring in place. Also, there are two approaches to component order: the factory method, and the alternating method. From the factory, t-lok's are packed in this order: shim, friction, steel, steel, friction, steel, steel, friction, side gear. The alternating pack is as described: shim, friction, steel, friction, steel, friction, steel, friction, side gear. There is some debate on the durability of the alternating method, as you have reduced the number of splined components (thereby increasing shear and contact stresses), while increasing the ability to transmit torque. My contention? I've never seen a rearend go out due to t-lok spline failure; it's usually axle related (OK, at some point the axles become stronger than the steel splines; at which point, I don't know! Maybe somebody ought to "run some numbers"...). Both methods work: satisfy your particular needs and plan accordingly (I prefer and suggest the alternating method, FWIW.). The F5AZ-4947-BA kit will allow you to accomplish the "factory" set-up; for the alternating, you can buy a pack of frictions (see number below), or reuse two (one for each side) of your best existing frictions.
The rebuild: Soak the frictions in gear oil for a minimum of fifteen (15) minutes (while you clean the diff case, gears, and shims) prior to assembly in order to avoid dry working and possible component damage. Be forewarned: the clutches will still pop when first driven (I about had a conniption when I first rolled mine out of the garage after gears and t-lok! The thing popped about a dozen times in turns before settling out. I soaked mine about twenty (20) minutes, but the last set I worked on was soaked for about two hours. Result: only one or two mild pops, even with alternating frictions and a new F-150 S-spring!). With the differential case on one bearing, install the .045" thick shim in the bottom cavity. Apply a few drops of gear oil to the other .045" shim and place in the upper cavity (the oil will hold it in place, as long as the drops are towards the case...). Stack the frictions, steels, and side gear (engaging steels) in the lower cavity per your packing choice, then stack the upper units on the side gear, and install as a unit (make sure tangs locate in case). Install one of the pinion gears in place, and, while holding inward with one thumb, install the opposite side pinion gear 180 degrees apart (I prep the pinion gears first by putting a couple drops of gear oil between the gear and it's steel bearing "shell"). Pick up the whole assembly, and install on the end of an upright axle. Rotate the diff case while holding the pinions inward as hard as possible; if you're lucky, the "assembly" will roll right into place. If the shims are too thick, the pinion gears will not clear the case (acting like a built in gauge...). Change one shim to the next thinnest, and try again. If it fails to go together, change the other shim to the next thinnest: repeat until the gears rotate into position. It's fine to have one shim .005" thicker than the other; just don't end up with a .010" disparity. If the pinion gears line up, and the shaft will go through, you have it correct (It took me about three tries the first time.).
S-spring installation: This is actually the most trying part of the whole procedure! The S-spring, by design, has to be compressed to allow installation. The Ford (Helm) manual directs you to tap it into place with a rubber hammer; maybe one that weighed about 1000 pounds and was frozen rock hard! More people have had difficulty with this one seemingly simple task, and I'm no exception. I fought my first one for about an hour, then finally got it by compressing it in a vise, holding it compressed with a couple of pairs of needle-nose Vise-grips, and driving it into place. Shortly thereafter, Larry Turvy from the Corral offered a great tip: use two, 2" capacity worm-type hose clamps. Larry's original suggestion was to use the clamps to compress the spring, but I still use the vise, then install the clamps, leaving a bit of the end exposed to get the thing started. Place the compressed spring into position, and start driving it into place with a hammer. With all luck, the spring will start in a few blows. Continue driving the spring in, until you stop on one of the "worm" portions of the clamp. Cut this clamp out with aviation or tin snips (Dremel or hacksaw may work), and continue driving, removing the other clamp when required. (Note: I found a 6-8" long piece of 1" x 1-1/2" rectangular tube, used as a "punch", to be very helpful in "persuading" the S-spring into position, especially when using the F-150 unit!). Be careful not to drive the spring all the way through and out the back; sight down the pinhole and roughly center the spring. Set the unit aside for the time being.
__________________
Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
I did mine myself about a month ago. Its not hard at all if you follow the step by step how to in the sticky threads. Thats what I went by and i'm no mech. thats for sure. It took me about 7hrs not in no rush. The hardest part is getting that spring back in.
Back from the track with improvement from the last time !!! 
. The subframe connectors will help stiffen up the body quite a bit. They may not exactly translate into better times but depending on how long they are and whatnot they can also support the lower control arm torque box from ripping out and also help prevent cracks in the floorpan.
