I want to do a full out racing slick setup for my Mustang. However, it doesnt seem too common. I am having trouble finding information on it. If i wanted to put Drag Slicks (Hoosiers on my car). What do I need? Has anyone done this? What size rim is best? What size tire? Anyone who has done this before, I would appreciate any help you can give me. The only thing I read so far is that I may not to do something with the rear brakes? Is that true? What is the story? Please help!
I want to do a full out racing slick setup for my Mustang. However, it doesnt seem too common. I am having trouble finding information on it. If i wanted to put Drag Slicks (Hoosiers on my car). What do I need? Has anyone done this? What size rim is best? What size tire? Anyone who has done this before, I would appreciate any help you can give me. The only thing I read so far is that I may not to do something with the rear brakes? Is that true? What is the story? Please help!
ok ......
I want to do a full out racing slick setup for my Mustang.
slicks are a great to get the most traction......
the downside is driveline shock......
I want to do a full out racing slick setup for my Mustang. However, it doesnt seem too common
as far as not being common can't be any further form the truth....
If i wanted to put Drag Slicks (Hoosiers on my car). What do I need?
A tire that will be the meet the traction requirements of the performance level of your car.....
What size tire
see above......
Has anyone done this?
each and every weekend across the country....
The only thing I read so far is that I may not to do something with the rear brakes
there is some truth to that during the burnout process it will cause a higher amount of wear (brake pads) on cars that are equipped with rear disc brakes
this article should provide you with some much needed info.....
you need a 15 x10 wheel with a 6.5 bs....you need a 26x10x15 slick...(hoosiers in your case)
The set up is VERY common...BUT before you invest in the rear wheels and slicks....PLEASE build up your rear end because this year of stang will snap an axle like twigs...upgrade to a 31 slpine axle, 31 spline eaton or locker unit, rear girdle, and 3 inch studs while you are there...also do a gear change too...what do you want the car to do? all motor?...4.10's or 4.30's....nitrous or blower? 3.55's or 3.73's...
as far as breaks...minimal work may be needed...nothing crazy
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TRICKED OUT RACING 1991 Mustang LX Coupe 13.12 @ 101.3 mph (stock uncracked motor) Best 60 ft 1.64
Alright. Question for rig? What is a 6.5bs? (Drag Radial term?) Next, Roost, I need a 15 inch rim. Any 15 inch wheel will do without me having to change the brakes in the rear? Or is it I need to change them just because of the wear? Or is it because of fitment reasoning with such a small wheel in the rear. If that is the problem, I am honestly not worried, as this will be the car that I am converting into some track use. As far as building the rear, I am aware I will need to do that. I wanted to go with an 8.8 Eaton - 31 Spline and change the gears to 4.10's. I will eventually be running nitrous, after I do the small modifications I would like to do. (I will prolly run NOS after I do cylinder heads when I want to pull out exra power.) I already have the basics done to this vehicle becuz it was a racy street car but as I got older, I realized that Street Racing isn't the best thing to do and that I am lucky that I have gotten awya with all the things that I have! But you guys don't think it would be good to just take it to the track with the regular rear. I know I will break it, but I want to break the part, then repair what breaks with the strongest part, then go back, see what breaks next, then replace that. Eventually, after many trips, I will have built a strong rear and a car that can withstand the power. (Is this the incorrect way to do this?) Let me know what you think. I am a ROOKIE for the Track but I am hoping to have a very strong race car at the track, slowly but surely (making it a hobby!). Thanks for answering fellaz!
Oh, I got 3.73's in there now! So, when I change the rear, I am gonna do the 4.10's!
Alright. Question for rig? What is a 6.5bs? (Drag Radial term?) Next, Roost, I need a 15 inch rim. Any 15 inch wheel will do without me having to change the brakes in the rear? Or is it I need to change them just because of the wear? Or is it because of fitment reasoning with such a small wheel in the rear. If that is the problem, I am honestly not worried, as this will be the car that I am converting into some track use. As far as building the rear, I am aware I will need to do that. I wanted to go with an 8.8 Eaton - 31 Spline and change the gears to 4.10's. I will eventually be running nitrous, after I do the small modifications I would like to do. (I will prolly run NOS after I do cylinder heads when I want to pull out exra power.) I already have the basics done to this vehicle becuz it was a racy street car but as I got older, I realized that Street Racing isn't the best thing to do and that I am lucky that I have gotten awya with all the things that I have! But you guys don't think it would be good to just take it to the track with the regular rear. I know I will break it, but I want to break the part, then repair what breaks with the strongest part, then go back, see what breaks next, then replace that. Eventually, after many trips, I will have built a strong rear and a car that can withstand the power. (Is this the incorrect way to do this?) Let me know what you think. I am a ROOKIE for the Track but I am hoping to have a very strong race car at the track, slowly but surely (making it a hobby!). Thanks for answering fellaz!
Oh, I got 3.73's in there now! So, when I change the rear, I am gonna do the 4.10's!
There are some things you may want to consider...first, are you going to be driving the car to the track? Are you prepared to change the wheels every time you go (from street tire to slick...vice versa)? Another thing is...slicks really aren't needed unless you expect your car to be FAST (much faster than what a rookie should be considering). You might want to look into some MT et streets. That way you can drive to the track and not worry about ruining drag slicks. I am not sure why you feel you will need to change the brakes, but slicks won't have anything to do with your brakes. You are right about street racing...keep it on the track .
The car will be getting trailed. (I know I will be breaking things because of the tires biting into the ground with slicks - I am ready and willing to break things as long as it leads me to later strenghthening my drivetrain which will be needed as the car gets much faster) As far as changing the tires/rims when I go, that isnt a problem for me as I have all the equipment to do so. The car is decently fast, and I will be a rookie at the track (but def. not a rookie to racing) I can imagine how much different racing on slicks is though (never used them) and I feel that the vehicle is fast and I would like it to hook very well (doesn't hook that good with the Pirelli's on it now) I heard the MT's are good but I wouldnt mind the slick setup too squeeze out some better time and the car will get progressively quicker as I modify it. Let me know what you guys think?
Alright. Question for rig? What is a 6.5bs? (Drag Radial term?) Next, Roost, I need a 15 inch rim. Any 15 inch wheel will do without me having to change the brakes in the rear? Or is it I need to change them just because of the wear? Or is it because of fitment reasoning with such a small wheel in the rear. If that is the problem, I am honestly not worried, as this will be the car that I am converting into some track use. As far as building the rear, I am aware I will need to do that. I wanted to go with an 8.8 Eaton - 31 Spline and change the gears to 4.10's. I will eventually be running nitrous, after I do the small modifications I would like to do. (I will prolly run NOS after I do cylinder heads when I want to pull out exra power.) I already have the basics done to this vehicle becuz it was a racy street car but as I got older, I realized that Street Racing isn't the best thing to do and that I am lucky that I have gotten awya with all the things that I have! But you guys don't think it would be good to just take it to the track with the regular rear. I know I will break it, but I want to break the part, then repair what breaks with the strongest part, then go back, see what breaks next, then replace that. Eventually, after many trips, I will have built a strong rear and a car that can withstand the power. (Is this the incorrect way to do this?) Let me know what you think. I am a ROOKIE for the Track but I am hoping to have a very strong race car at the track, slowly but surely (making it a hobby!). Thanks for answering fellaz!
Oh, I got 3.73's in there now! So, when I change the rear, I am gonna do the 4.10's!
6.5 backspacing...that is how much wheel goes in and out of the car...15 wheel cause that is the size slick you will need...i'd go with some weld racing wheels...you want a light wheel for drag racing...you may have minor issues with the brakes BECAUSE your wheel from factory is a 17...you have bigger brakes...BUT it is a minor modification to make the 15 inch wheel fit...i think you may have to grind a little bit on the brake caliper or bolt...you'll know where to grind when you out the 15 inch wheel on...no big deal at all...DONT wait for the rear end to break at the track...you will have to trailer it home or have a tow truck take it because if you break the rear....then you cant roll it...build the rear up first....if it was my car....(drag racing)...i would build the rear end first (completely), do all rear suspension on car, add light aluminum wheels (welds) all around car, get a nice clutch and shifter, do all the exhaust (long tube headers, off road h or x pipe, straight thru muffler like magnaflow or borla), then add the throttle body...plenum...cold air...pulleys, and then do the front suspension like k-member, a-arms, and coil overs....that will get you in the 12's on stock motor IFFFFFFFF you can drive....nitrous will get you deep into the 11's...how fast do you want to go? No need for aftermarket heads and cams if you want 11's on juice...you need to tell us how fast you want to go first...we can be more accurate with a combo...cover all the basics first before you tear into the motor if thats what you want...
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TRICKED OUT RACING 1991 Mustang LX Coupe 13.12 @ 101.3 mph (stock uncracked motor) Best 60 ft 1.64
One question. What size do I get for the front (I always see the skinny skinny rims/tires on the front) - Right now I have flowmasters, a prochamber, pulleys, intake, throttlebody, gears, shortshifter. Currently in my garage, I have the flywheel and clutch with clutch cable and adjuster and quadrant (Ford Racing Parts). I want to do the headers, cylinder heads, and some nitrous with a tune. I figured it will be pretty mean after that! If i break the rear the car cant roll at all? I just need to get it onto the trailer. I thought it would roll onto the trailer and I just bring it home... I get the feeling im gonna learn a lot of new stuff from this track business but this is what I always wanted since I was 18 - I'm now 24 and ready to roll with it!
Thanks for the help, guys. For how fast I want to go, I kinda want to do that work, see how fast, i go... Then just be in a constant race against myself. For example, If i run a 12.5 when I go, i want a 12.3 the next time, so I will buy another part, then beat that time, then the next time go with some new parts or something new done. That way I can beat that time. I dont really have an exact time other than faster than the time before. (which will get expensive after a while) Any size specs for the skinny in the front as far as width and rim size and or what tire/size I will need? THanks!
I just spoke to a guy, he said that the fronts would need either 15x3.5 or 15x5. (3.5 for drag racing) - With a 3.5, will they just fit in the front without the brakes getting in the way?
Bought the 15x10 Rears already with a 6.5 backspace on Ebay, new for an awesome deal of 124 each with free shipping! Didnt buy the front yet? Anybody have any idea what kind of offest would be needed with that? I might possibly just take the 15x5? What would the difference really be. Just the fact of weight? Or is there some other crazy science behind it. Just in case, If i ever wanna drive it on the street, the 5 would be better? I really appreciate every one taking their time to help me with this!
1999 Mustang Drag Slick Info/Advice needed 
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