Anyone shift their auto S197 and can recommend a shifter or shifter mod so the car doesn't easily shift up into neutral? There is a detent in D but it can easily be slide right over and into neutral. Thanks.
__________________
'07 Ford Mustang GT Alloy Metallic
4.6 Auto, 3.73 gears, C&L CAI, Diablo 91 octane tune, drag radials, and a saftey loop. What else do I need for a 14 second bracket car?
Thanks. Know anyone that uses one. I want to keep the stock button to lock out the overdrive and likewise want to keep a stock look.
I actually only need to make 1 shift. 2nd to D. I launch in second (yes 2nd gear) and shift into drive after 4500rpm. The computer takes control (at wot) and does the rest of the shifting.
Side note launching from second allows me to shallow stage from idle and hit the second amber.
__________________
'07 Ford Mustang GT Alloy Metallic
4.6 Auto, 3.73 gears, C&L CAI, Diablo 91 octane tune, drag radials, and a saftey loop. What else do I need for a 14 second bracket car?
get a good tune from Doug @ Bama and let the tranny do the work
my .02
Will a tune let me launch from 2nd gear?
__________________
'07 Ford Mustang GT Alloy Metallic
4.6 Auto, 3.73 gears, C&L CAI, Diablo 91 octane tune, drag radials, and a saftey loop. What else do I need for a 14 second bracket car?
ok i will admit my knowledge is limited when comes to the S197
But what is the purpose of launching in 2nd gear.....
JMO sort of defeats the purpose of having gears installed....
I bracket race and its all about RT. Deep staged footbreaking at 1800rpm, front air 45lbs, rear 30lbs I can only cut .080 lights. Car can not be launched any harder. I slowed the car to shallow stage off the 2nd amber. Shallow off idle, front 20lbs, rear 20lbs, in second gear. This puts me .025 on average. I don't anticipate the tree and actually go on the yellow. My RT's are the same on a pro .500 and Sportsmant trees. Well actually my shallow deal is .5xx. The deal with cutting consistant lights is to keep the spot on the tree the same and change the car to launch softer or harder. I hit the same spot no matter which car I race. Relax, hit the spot on the tree, and let the car do the work of cutting a good light.
Now the down side is that I have to shift out of second. If I shift into drive after 4500rmp the car doesn't shift. It stayes in second under wot and shifts by computer at 6000rpm into third, then into 4th again at 6000. If i shift from second before 4500rpm the computer shifts the car back into first. Problem is that its very easy to shift from second into neutral. Can't win may rounds going into neutral.
__________________
'07 Ford Mustang GT Alloy Metallic
4.6 Auto, 3.73 gears, C&L CAI, Diablo 91 octane tune, drag radials, and a saftey loop. What else do I need for a 14 second bracket car?
why not work on the suspension and uses the car's full potential...
i guess the reasons you have stated is why i don't bracket race...
I know only one way on the two step
last yellow gone
and let it eat......
I have no $$$$ for mods lol. Its either get the car to launch harder which means a converter and gears. Car will hit harder and most likely spin which means more $$$ for supension mods... ok hooks now more $$$ for driveshaft and u-bolts etc. I have to work with what I have. Working outside the box on the second amber thing. Two step is not legal in my class or actually legal if used only as a high side rev limiter. I race in a footbrake classes.
I lost about .3 ET wise and almost no mph with the second gear deal. Competition is so good that .080 lights are a quick ticket home. In bracket racing .3 is no big deal because of dial ins.
__________________
'07 Ford Mustang GT Alloy Metallic
4.6 Auto, 3.73 gears, C&L CAI, Diablo 91 octane tune, drag radials, and a saftey loop. What else do I need for a 14 second bracket car?
Get a race tune from Doug and let the trans do the work. You will love it.
Ok. I'll restate. With my current car I need to launch in 2nd gear to cut competitive lights bracket racing. Once I launch I shift into drive at the proper time and allow the car to do the gear shifting. With my cheap a$$ Diablo tune the car shifts just fine and is very dial-able. I was asking for some shifter ideal so I don't fubar the stupid 2 to D shift. I have a work around right now. I keep my elbow on the console, index finger and palm on the side of shifter, thumb in the grove at the bottom of the shifter. I just move my thumb and gently slide into D. Problem is that I'm sweating the shift and it's distracting me from other things that I should be doing.
__________________
'07 Ford Mustang GT Alloy Metallic
4.6 Auto, 3.73 gears, C&L CAI, Diablo 91 octane tune, drag radials, and a saftey loop. What else do I need for a 14 second bracket car?
I would get LCA`S and anti squat brackets. Be sure to weld them in. I would also get a adjustable UCA. This will help your traction issues and cut some time off of your ET.
__________________
Airraid CAI/BAMA tune,moto blue pullies,3:73`s,LPW girdle;Powerhouse DS,CHE safety loop,CHE LCA`S & Adjustable UCA,Kooks LT`S & O/R X Pipe,prothane MM`s,Steeda CMDP`S,Eibach springs,Tokico D specs,Polished TB(by Me),Steeda radiator support,MT DR`S,Zex kit 100 shot. Taylor Relocation batter kit and cut off switch
11:933 ET, 1.674 60`,111.877 MPH
as i said in the thread i know how my car leaves.....
i hear you on the $$$ for mods....
fix one thing every action has a reaction with equals more money....
The car runs so well bracket wise I'm scared to change anything. Last season I made 4 elimiantions runs. 13.694, 13.698, 13.696 flat out and a 13.701 tapping the brakes all on a 13.70 dial. Got the wins going faster than my dial by redlights and double breakouts.
__________________
'07 Ford Mustang GT Alloy Metallic
4.6 Auto, 3.73 gears, C&L CAI, Diablo 91 octane tune, drag radials, and a saftey loop. What else do I need for a 14 second bracket car?
Shifting S197 auto when racing 
