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Old 05-03-2009   #16 (permalink)
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I think you also need to look into lightening the car for the track. A good set of racing rims and stickies will do wonders as PL said. Rotational mass plays an important part in drag racing. A few more cheap tricks are unbolting your front sway bar for better weight transfer to the back and stripping your car of all excess weight, fuel at 1/4 tank, etc.......
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Old 05-03-2009   #17 (permalink)
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Since i'm still playing with my old 21 year old car all this new cars stuff confuses my old @$$ .....

does the driveshaft change make that big of a difference on the S197.....

i have seen the prices....
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Old 05-03-2009   #18 (permalink)
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Is that true what the post earlier said about raising your tire pressure in the front to 45 psi getting you a better ET? im running 35 in the front right now and 25 in the back.
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Old 05-04-2009   #19 (permalink)
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raising the tire pressure will reduce the rolling resistance therefore in theory could lower you ET....

be sure not to exceed the manufacture recommended pressure ....

keep in mind you are working with a street tire.....
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Old 05-04-2009   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLG34750 View Post
Since i'm still playing with my old 21 year old car all this new cars stuff confuses my old @$$ .....

does the driveshaft change make that big of a difference on the S197.....

i have seen the prices....
It is about 2o lbs in rotational mass. It is also much safer than that 2 piece stocker. I have seen picks of that thing breaking and going into the tranny, and engine. That thing could come up into the drivers seat,not good. I would rather pay for that , than pay for it the hard way. OUCH! ... Metal Enema
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Old 05-04-2009   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BKid View Post
OUCH! ... Metal Enema

That gives new meaning to feeling it in the "seat of the pants".....

Thanks for clearing that up for me......
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Old 05-04-2009   #22 (permalink)
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First of all skip on the Steeda drag pack. Is your car lowered? If not then you don't need a panhard bar.

Get a good set of LCA's and adjustable upper would also be nice. Then get a set of control arm relocation brackets.

At the track set the LCA's at the lowest point in the relocation brackets. That may be too much for you on daily driving but at the track it will help. Try different settings to see what works best.

You need to transfer weight to the back tires and S197's don't do that well. we have 53% of our weight in the front. So you need those tires to hit as hard as possible without blowing them off.

The tip about stagging shallow will help you. You cheat the track a little. It gives you about 6" to get the car moving before you actually break the beams and start the run. That should give you more time to transfer the weight on the car.

You want to be able to cut a 1.7** 60'. You start getting around there and you'll have that car working!
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Old 05-04-2009   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BKid View Post
It is about 2o lbs in rotational mass. It is also much safer than that 2 piece stocker. I have seen picks of that thing breaking and going into the tranny, and engine. That thing could come up into the drivers seat,not good. I would rather pay for that , than pay for it the hard way. OUCH! ... Metal Enema
Yep the 2 piece drive shaft.....great for NVH.....not so great for Drag racing!
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Old 05-04-2009   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLG34750 View Post
raising the tire pressure will reduce the rolling resistance therefore in theory could lower you ET....

be sure not to exceed the manufacture recommended pressure ....

keep in mind you are working with a street tire.....
Reggie's dead on! we're talking about a little trick that might buy you a couple hundreds MAX maybe! Keeping them over inflated probably isn't the best idea!

I'll run my skinnies up when I'm trying to lay down a number. However, I don't do it on a regular basis.
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