So ive been to the track 3 times. each time my ET's have gone up it really sucks. i went from running consistent 9.3 (1/8th mile) to 9.4 and it has been going up since. im not sure why. im doing everything the same way as when i was getting the 9.3's I did a few things between trips to the strip.
first i put in new spark plugs
second removed my cat's
when i went after removing the cats i was running consistent 9.4's all day long. i was running 9.3s with cats. so i put the cats back on to see if it made a difference and i ran even slower today. i could hardly get 9.4s my goal is to get into the 8's as of right now and i thought id be able to do it after the new plugs and oil change. im having some serious traction problems. when i hit second gear my tires spin pretty bad and i cant seem to avoid it. I have an auto. let me know if you have any suggestions.
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99 Mustang GT (9.2 second 1/8th no spray)
PP Typhoon intake manifold-goodyear eagle F1's-Steeda UD pulleys-chin spoiler-PP 70mm TB-10in flat black vinyl stripes-C&L intake plenum-ford racing 4.10 gears-K&N CAI-SCT tune/tuner-Flowmaster Catbacks-Summit Exhaust cutouts-Pypes X-pipes-E3 spark plugs-subframe connectors-18 inch cobra R wheels-granatelli upper/lower control arms-18in deep dish bullet wheels-NOS Wet Kit (100shot)-Zex Window Switch-NOS Dual Purge.. coming soon Hitech stage 2 cams
Many variables to consider, however the biggest one this time of year is air temperature. Your times will increase the hotter the air temperature.
Others - track conditions can change, driving style (launch rpm changes, shift rpm changes, etc.), variances in tire pressure, etc. The list can go on. Best to keep a log documenting all the changes you make as a driver (launch and shift points), mechanical changes, and air temperature to see if what your doing or things you cannot control (air temp) is causing your increases in time. I believe you are experiencing the latter.
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1994 Vert with 347, all forged rotating assembly with 5.315 H-beam rods, windaged, girdled, Comp Cams XE282HR, ported Vic Jr heads, ported Vic Jr. Spyder intake, 1.7 RR's, #42 lbs injectors, BBK 75mm, 76mm C&L, Alum. drive shaft, Strange Adjustable Front Struts, BBK Lowers, Adj uppers, 3.73's, Nitto 555R's.
Trouble filling the void with enough speed or power? - take GOD for a test drive
So ive been to the track 3 times. each time my ET's have gone up it really sucks. i went from running consistent 9.3 (1/8th mile) to 9.4 and it has been going up since. im not sure why. im doing everything the same way as when i was getting the 9.3's I did a few things between trips to the strip.
first i put in new spark plugs
second removed my cat's
when i went after removing the cats i was running consistent 9.4's all day long. i was running 9.3s with cats. so i put the cats back on to see if it made a difference and i ran even slower today. i could hardly get 9.4s my goal is to get into the 8's as of right now and i thought id be able to do it after the new plugs and oil change. im having some serious traction problems. when i hit second gear my tires spin pretty bad and i cant seem to avoid it. I have an auto. let me know if you have any suggestions.
#1 New plugs & oil change will not give a you a performance gain of a 1/2 sec
#2 you admitting your lack traction if the main culprit for the slumping ET.....
I would recommend going to a drag radial or slicks....
#3 as mention earlier weather & track condition will play havoc with times......
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Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
#1 New plugs & oil change will not give a you a performance gain of a 1/2 sec
#2 you admitting your lack traction if the main culprit for the slumping ET.....
I would recommend going to a drag radial or slicks....
#3 as mention earlier weather & track condition will play havoc with times......
the only reason i said anything about the plugs was because mine we so old my car was about to crap out ha. i thought getting fresh ones in would help my car run at least the same way as it was.
I know its the traction im 100% certain of it. my car hauls ass up until second then tires chirp like crazy. i tried to let off the gas when the gear change comes but nothing seems to be working. i refuse to be beat by a civic again.
do you guys think the subframes connectors will help i have a set im getting put in when the pay check comes around ha. i also bought some lowering springs which im thinking wont help crap. everything i hear says they will make me slower ha any opinions on this?
Thanks a lot guys i really appreciate all the help
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99 Mustang GT (9.2 second 1/8th no spray)
PP Typhoon intake manifold-goodyear eagle F1's-Steeda UD pulleys-chin spoiler-PP 70mm TB-10in flat black vinyl stripes-C&L intake plenum-ford racing 4.10 gears-K&N CAI-SCT tune/tuner-Flowmaster Catbacks-Summit Exhaust cutouts-Pypes X-pipes-E3 spark plugs-subframe connectors-18 inch cobra R wheels-granatelli upper/lower control arms-18in deep dish bullet wheels-NOS Wet Kit (100shot)-Zex Window Switch-NOS Dual Purge.. coming soon Hitech stage 2 cams
yeah thats what im thinking i think i can still send them back i just did know till it was to late. any thing else i should do. do you think ill get a noticeable difference with the connectors
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99 Mustang GT (9.2 second 1/8th no spray)
PP Typhoon intake manifold-goodyear eagle F1's-Steeda UD pulleys-chin spoiler-PP 70mm TB-10in flat black vinyl stripes-C&L intake plenum-ford racing 4.10 gears-K&N CAI-SCT tune/tuner-Flowmaster Catbacks-Summit Exhaust cutouts-Pypes X-pipes-E3 spark plugs-subframe connectors-18 inch cobra R wheels-granatelli upper/lower control arms-18in deep dish bullet wheels-NOS Wet Kit (100shot)-Zex Window Switch-NOS Dual Purge.. coming soon Hitech stage 2 cams
I run an 1/8 mile strip also. (Huntsville DrayWay, Alabama). I was in the 10's with very few mods (C&L intake,TB,tube,MAF and filter, I got 4.10's and a mixed up pipe system with a DS Predator programer.) I'm now running low 9's (9.2, 9.1 and I even got an 8.9 in Feb when it was really cold outside), Just because I put on M/T street/strip drag radails. Hey, If you got 1000hp you will just sit at the line if you can't get it to the ground.
yeah i run mid 9s all day long but i cant seem to break any lower. i ran 1 9.3 but i am just unable to reach it again. im getting the subframes installed and hopefully it will help my traction problem
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99 Mustang GT (9.2 second 1/8th no spray)
PP Typhoon intake manifold-goodyear eagle F1's-Steeda UD pulleys-chin spoiler-PP 70mm TB-10in flat black vinyl stripes-C&L intake plenum-ford racing 4.10 gears-K&N CAI-SCT tune/tuner-Flowmaster Catbacks-Summit Exhaust cutouts-Pypes X-pipes-E3 spark plugs-subframe connectors-18 inch cobra R wheels-granatelli upper/lower control arms-18in deep dish bullet wheels-NOS Wet Kit (100shot)-Zex Window Switch-NOS Dual Purge.. coming soon Hitech stage 2 cams
yeah i run mid 9s all day long but i cant seem to break any lower. i ran 1 9.3 but i am just unable to reach it again. im getting the subframes installed and hopefully it will help my traction problem
The subframes will make a major difference.......
__________________
Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
i would but its an auto ive been tuning the shift times though
You should be shifting it manually.
I shift my AOD manually when I race it.
The stock AOD valve body is governed and generally enforces a shift even at WOT below 5500 or so RPM. If you have any mods to the motor that raised your power band you might not be hitting your peaks.
You should be shifting it manually.
I shift my AOD manually when I race it.
The stock AOD valve body is governed and generally enforces a shift even at WOT below 5500 or so RPM. If you have any mods to the motor that raised your power band you might not be hitting your peaks.
i actually have mine tuned to shift at 6800k at WOT i tried manually shifting a few times and was just going slower. i heard something about shifting from first to drive then back to first then into drive is that how you do it?
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99 Mustang GT (9.2 second 1/8th no spray)
PP Typhoon intake manifold-goodyear eagle F1's-Steeda UD pulleys-chin spoiler-PP 70mm TB-10in flat black vinyl stripes-C&L intake plenum-ford racing 4.10 gears-K&N CAI-SCT tune/tuner-Flowmaster Catbacks-Summit Exhaust cutouts-Pypes X-pipes-E3 spark plugs-subframe connectors-18 inch cobra R wheels-granatelli upper/lower control arms-18in deep dish bullet wheels-NOS Wet Kit (100shot)-Zex Window Switch-NOS Dual Purge.. coming soon Hitech stage 2 cams
i actually have mine tuned to shift at 6800k at WOT i tried manually shifting a few times and was just going slower. i heard something about shifting from first to drive then back to first then into drive is that how you do it?
Shift from first to second, when it shifts into second immediately shift back into first to hold the second gear shift in place. This shift pattern worked in my 80's AOD.
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1994 Vert with 347, all forged rotating assembly with 5.315 H-beam rods, windaged, girdled, Comp Cams XE282HR, ported Vic Jr heads, ported Vic Jr. Spyder intake, 1.7 RR's, #42 lbs injectors, BBK 75mm, 76mm C&L, Alum. drive shaft, Strange Adjustable Front Struts, BBK Lowers, Adj uppers, 3.73's, Nitto 555R's.
Trouble filling the void with enough speed or power? - take GOD for a test drive
lowering times help! 
