[lilorange79]

Just ran 11.978 at 113.49mph and a 60ft at 1.783.
I was slipping just a little off the line at 9 psi. I was getting the tires pretty hot and sticky. The front was at 32 psi, but I hear 40 psi might help. I noticed that the tires were wrinkling a lot on the launch and a pretty good squash just sitting there. I was wondering if the rolling resistance of the rear tires is an issue? I was told that 12-15psi would probably be better to try in the rear. I was shifting at 6500 and crossing the line at 6700.
Now weight....the front sway bar I seen in another post? What about the rear bar?
Does it help sealing the hood scoop to the carburator? What about those air filter tops that allow air in through the top or just remove the filter when racing? Glass hood with bigger scoop?
I am at 10 to 1 compression so stick to pump premium or add octain boost? Timing is at 13 initial and 34 total and no ping. Add booster and advance it a degree or two?
How many rpm to try to launch at with a 3500 converter?
just ideas that I am tossing around while looking for anouther couple 10ths.....I really want an 11.5
for now and then a 10.99 .........you know what I mean

[EagleAutosports]

9 psi in the tires? That's too low. You need to get it up around 12-15 like you heard. You want the wall to wrinkle, not look like it's flat.

If this is strictly a drag car, you can remove the bars. If it's a street car, remove the front for racing ONLY. The rear can stay because it won't be of any real benefit in taking it off.

Sealing the carb will prevent the fuel being pulled back out of the carb at high rpms. If it's pulled back out of the carb, it'll start breaking up and kill your time.

The filter top would be a good idea, the filter smooths out the airflow over having no filter at all and the engine should perform better.

With that compression, you could use higher octane fuel and then retune the engine for it.

With a 3500 converter, you want to "flash" the converter. The tactic of flooring the gas till the rpms stop and tries to move the car forward isn't the right way. Get the revs to 2000 and then on the last yellow, hit the gas right before you release the brake. This will "flash" the converter to it's stall speed, giving you a harder launch. So many rev it up against the brake as far as it'll go and then wonder why they can't get a hard launch.

[stang93mustang]

Remove the front sway bar, DO NOT remove the rear! It will make the car unsafe by removing the rear.

[RLG34750]

Originally Posted by stang93mustang

Remove the front sway bar, DO NOT remove the rear! It will make the car unsafe by removing the rear.

100% agreement with the above statement .......

Removing the rear sway will result in the rear trying switch ends with the front....

viola meet Mr Wall......


1. based on the compression you should be ok with 93 octane.....

2. you state you are shifting at 6500 ......
the questions i have is has the car been dyno'd as where you know where the power band starts & ends.....

3. tire pressure will depend on a multitude of things....

i personally have run my tires as low as 10 psi......

what you need to be careful of is the car "dead hooking"......

Tire pressure usually is dictated my track conditions there is no magic tire pressure number......

[stang93mustang]

Originally Posted by RLG34750

the questions i have is has the car been dyno'd as where you know where the power band starts & ends.....

Question? If the car has not beeen dyno'd can one assume that if built properly they can go standard of the cam spec. card? Then to say, shift so that your RPM's stay within that window?

[lilorange79]

Thanks for the help. I never understood "flash" and that sounds like it will help. I have not been able to dyno it yet, I would love to. The cam specs rate it at 1800-5800.(224/230 dur- 543/543 lift) It feels (by seat of pants) to be pulling the hardest up to 6500. I am not sure if using 1.7 rockers have any effect on this. I went with a lower rpm cam to keep me from getting too excited and buzzing it too tight and going poof. It isn't a daily driver but more of a second car.
Sounds like my next trip....
I want to add the filter top and a lighter lift off hood, sealed to the carb.Remove front sway bar to help the 90/10 shocks work better, raise the slick pressure to get the wrinkle out of them just sitting there which should be about 12psi. and see if it hooks. Start at 2000rpm on the light and "flash" the converter to see if it jumps a bit quicker. I will check to see if there is a cassis dyno around the area to play with my tune.
It has been 25 years since my last hotrod so I am really having fun with this, thanks again for the advice.

[RLG34750]

Originally Posted by stang93mustang

Question? If the car has not beeen dyno'd can one assume that if built properly they can go standard of the cam spec. card? Then to say, shift so that your RPM's stay within that window?

Good advice....

Originally Posted by lilorange79

Thanks for the help. I never understood "flash" and that sounds like it will help. I have not been able to dyno it yet, I would love to. The cam specs rate it at 1800-5800.(224/230 dur- 543/543 lift) It feels (by seat of pants) to be pulling the hardest up to 6500.

That explains a lot you are shifting WAY beyond the power band

i personally would not shift pass 6000 with that cam.....

I am not sure if using 1.7 rockers have any effect on this. I went with a lower rpm cam to keep me from getting too excited and buzzing it too tight and going poof. It isn't a daily driver but more of a second car.

No 1.7's if anything will slow down the valve train geometry.....

It starting to sound like a incompatibility issue with your combo...

very common mistake.....

weight reduction is a good thing .....

[Stroked95GT]

Try shifting at a lower rpm like reg said. that may get you a 10th or 2?

[dodgestang]

My 410 pulls all the way up to 7300 before the HP starts to go down...I still shift 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd at 6500...that's where I get the best ET

try shifting it a little earlier.