This is for anyone who has already done the work - I am looking into the suspension changes people make for better drag racing launches - so if you already did the work, please let me know what you did as far as brands / parts / prices, etc.. but not including labor - and if the changes 1) helped with 60ft times, and 2) were detrimental to street driving.
I used Steeda for mine and have been pleased with the results. as far as better 60s I didnt track the car much with the stock stuff so its not a fair comparison. I used the adjustable LCA and UCA for my build.
I have adjustable shocks set very soft up front and hard in the back for weight transfer. I have the Eibach drag lauch kit also reall cuts that 60`. As mentioned above the LCA`S and adjustable Uca are great for wheel hop. I used the CHE PERFORMANCE pieces. Steeda and J&m are good also.
Now the big part of suspension that most overlook is tires. I would reccomend Mickey Thompson Et streets.
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Airraid CAI/BAMA tune,moto blue pullies,3:73`s,LPW girdle;Powerhouse DS,CHE safety loop,CHE LCA`S & Adjustable UCA,Kooks LT`S & O/R X Pipe,prothane MM`s,Steeda CMDP`S,Eibach springs,Tokico D specs,Polished TB(by Me),Steeda radiator support,MT DR`S,Zex kit 100 shot. Taylor Relocation batter kit and cut off switch
11:933 ET, 1.674 60`,111.877 MPH 5600 feet above sea level 6900 D/A
i put an upper control arm, lower control arms, panhard bar and tubular radiator support from BMR. Don't remember how much i paid for them but i installed them myself. Oh and tokico shocks and struts, non adj though.
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1995 Mustang GT-Heavily Modded-Sold 2003 Ford Lightning-Sold 1997 Saleen-5.4 conversion-Sold 2005 Mustang GT-Torch Red-Sold 2003 Mustang Cobra-Oxford White 2003 4Runner V8 Sport Edition 4X4
OK, so here's the tougher questions... If I am already getting high 1.6 - low 1.7 60' times, would I really expect to get much better? And is it worth doing for that 1/10th considering the NVH ? Is the NVH a real problem for the daily drivers - or does the setup really help with bump-steer probs too?
start with LCAs and see who the car hooks. it will not add much NVH just from that. if that helps some, then you could always add the UCA - which IMO will add more NVH then the LCA
Anti squat relocation brackets welded in. UCA AND lCA`S the basics. I used all Che Performance. I think you could find these on Ebay still. I did all the labor. The relocation brackets where like 89.00. The Lca`s where like 130.00. The UCA was like 159.00 I think.It was one of my first mods. I did not get any NVH from these mods. The Tokico adjustable shocks helped with weight transfer. They did not add any NVH. They actually made the ride better. I also got the Steeda radiator support which allows you to use the sway bar or delete it. I deleted it. I also just finished moving my battery to the trunk over the drivers side tire for beeter traction.
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Airraid CAI/BAMA tune,moto blue pullies,3:73`s,LPW girdle;Powerhouse DS,CHE safety loop,CHE LCA`S & Adjustable UCA,Kooks LT`S & O/R X Pipe,prothane MM`s,Steeda CMDP`S,Eibach springs,Tokico D specs,Polished TB(by Me),Steeda radiator support,MT DR`S,Zex kit 100 shot. Taylor Relocation batter kit and cut off switch
11:933 ET, 1.674 60`,111.877 MPH 5600 feet above sea level 6900 D/A
Thanks for the advice all- I am not looking to be quite as aggressive as BKid.... but I think the Tokico's are on the wish list now.. and I think I will probably follow Stk's advice and try the LCA's first, then possibly UCA, etc.. that just might be the only way I can afford to do it anyway.