Wow What an eye opener! I took my wifes 2007 GT to the Portland drag strip Oct. 9th and found out how bad of a driver I am.
I got caught with my pants down on both runs.
1st run; 13.857 @ 109.15 bad rt, missed 2nd
2nd run; 13.174 @ 110.41 again bad rt, lost serpenteen belt
After scrambling for a belt I had one of the guys that did the custom tune drive the car and he did the following run;
12.702 @ 118.7
We had a custom dyno tune done by Performance Race Engineering out of Portland, Oregon using a SCT-X3, AEM Brute Force intake, 39lb injectors and a GT500 MAF resulting in 458rwhp and 480torq .
Any advice about the tree or any thing else that would help my driving?
Wow What an eye opener! I took my wifes 2007 GT to the Portland drag strip Oct. 9th and found out how bad of a driver I am.
I got caught with my pants down on both runs.
1st run; 13.857 @ 109.15 bad rt, missed 2nd
2nd run; 13.174 @ 110.41 again bad rt, lost serpenteen belt
After scrambling for a belt I had one of the guys that did the custom tune drive the car and he did the following run;
12.702 @ 118.7
We had a custom dyno tune done by Performance Race Engineering out of Portland, Oregon using a SCT-X3, AEM Brute Force intake, 39lb injectors and a GT500 MAF resulting in 458rwhp and 480torq .
Any advice about the tree or any thing else that would help my driving?
when you see that last yellow start to go! thats how i laid down my .05 ( no thats not why im 05 horse ) though it should be lol
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i have yet to find some one else who when changing their oil ( every 2000 miles or when they get bored ) details the under side of their car.
X-C April 2010,Heads, Cam,Internals April 2011, or blown engine, witch ever comes first.
The transformation has begun!
Yeah I have trouble launching my Saleen blown car too. Word of advice check the tensioner to make sure its not bent. When they chuck belts sometimes the tensioner got bent or was already bent. Try some drag radials or maybe even some bias ply slicks.
And that stiff Saleen suspension isnt goin to help launches either so I think the 12.7 from your friend is pretty good.
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2005 Ford Mustang GT Torch Red Manual
Saleen Supercharger 3.4 pulley/Brenspeed Tune
FRPP Stingers Axleback Muffler System
CHE Lower Control Arms
Pro-5.0 Super Shifter
CDC Sequential Tail Lights
Best ET NA: 13.408 @ 105.31
Best SC: 12.6 @ 114 on Pirellis
Unless you’re racing in an elimination round (brackets, index, heads up) don't worry about the tree and your reaction times. ET starts when the rear edge of the front tire leaves the stage beam. So RT isn't going to impact your ET. (Bracket racers please note that there is a correlation between RT and ET). For your best ET stage as shallow as possible. Light the top prestage bulb then slowly bump forward and try to make the stage light blink then just barely turn it on. Traction is going to be your biggest issue. It’s important to put the car in the grove of the track. Put both tires in the middle of each of the dark dull back patches. Stay away from the shiny parts of the track. Street tires are hard to hook, better if you can go to drag radials, soft compound DOT bias ply tire (Hoosier QTP or MT ET Street), or bias or radial slicks. Fine line between spinning and bogging. Seat time will help and you will have to play with launch rpm, clutch engagement, and gas pedal travel. Shifting gears is just plain old seat time too.
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'07 Ford Mustang GT Alloy Metallic
4.6 Auto, 3.73 gears, C&L CAI, Diablo 91 octane tune, drag radials, and a saftey loop. What else do I need for a 14 second bracket car?
Unless you’re racing in an elimination round (brackets, index, heads up) don't worry about the tree and your reaction times. ET starts when the rear edge of the front tire leaves the stage beam. So RT isn't going to impact your ET. (Bracket racers please note that there is a correlation between RT and ET). For your best ET stage as shallow as possible. Light the top prestage bulb then slowly bump forward and try to make the stage light blink then just barely turn it on. Traction is going to be your biggest issue. It’s important to put the car in the grove of the track. Put both tires in the middle of each of the dark dull back patches. Stay away from the shiny parts of the track. Street tires are hard to hook, better if you can go to drag radials, soft compound DOT bias ply tire (Hoosier QTP or MT ET Street), or bias or radial slicks. Fine line between spinning and bogging. Seat time will help and you will have to play with launch rpm, clutch engagement, and gas pedal travel. Shifting gears is just plain old seat time too.
+1, Work on your 60' and definitely some MT ET's on there. With those trap speeds, you should be alot quicker. I was running 12.9's at 108-109 mph with only 330wrhp with my 2005 GT.
Oh and if my wife had a SC on her car...darn straight I would have one on my car too
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1995 Mustang GT-Heavily Modded-Sold 2003 Ford Lightning-Sold 1997 Saleen-5.4 conversion-Sold 2005 Mustang GT-Torch Red-Sold 2003 Mustang Cobra-Oxford White 2003 4Runner V8 Sport Edition 4X4
+1, Work on your 60' and definitely some MT ET's on there. With those trap speeds, you should be alot quicker. I was running 12.9's at 108-109 mph with only 330wrhp with my 2005 GT.
Oh and if my wife had a SC on her car...darn straight I would have one on my car too
LOL I would love to SC my car. But first things first I am in the process of putting my 5.0 back together with 185cc AFR heads, Typhoon intake, 70mm throttle,, 76mm MAF, still looking for 30lb injectors, 255lph pump, f303 cam, shorty headers, etc...
After I get my own car back togethor come spring time I will get some track time with it, the wife hardly lets me drive hers (I cant blame her I fell asleep at the wheel coming home from work back in May and totalled her last 07)
Quote:
Originally Posted by kazman
Unless you’re racing in an elimination round (brackets, index, heads up) don't worry about the tree and your reaction times. ET starts when the rear edge of the front tire leaves the stage beam. So RT isn't going to impact your ET. (Bracket racers please note that there is a correlation between RT and ET). For your best ET stage as shallow as possible. Light the top prestage bulb then slowly bump forward and try to make the stage light blink then just barely turn it on. Traction is going to be your biggest issue. It’s important to put the car in the grove of the track. Put both tires in the middle of each of the dark dull back patches. Stay away from the shiny parts of the track. Street tires are hard to hook, better if you can go to drag radials, soft compound DOT bias ply tire (Hoosier QTP or MT ET Street), or bias or radial slicks. Fine line between spinning and bogging. Seat time will help and you will have to play with launch rpm, clutch engagement, and gas pedal travel. Shifting gears is just plain old seat time too.
Thanks
I hope to get another shot at it Oct 30th as long as it dosent rain us out. The car had G-Force BFGoodrich DR on it but they 285/30ZR20 and I am thinking that they do not have enough give in them to hook up since they are a 20" tire. They definately were a step up from the 255/40ZR20 Hancooks that were on the car. I would like to install a short throw shifter on the also.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RLG34750
Well based upon the times with a more experience driver....
Seat time will be you friend.....
The car has the potential
You need to catch up with it.......
I believe your totally correct, I would love to drive the wifes car more but it is hers and she is kind of possessive with it (cant blame her). Hopefully I will get lots of seat time this next spring between her car and mainly mine.
My last trip to the quarter mile at Memphis Motorsport, I consistently beat two GT500s by my much better "reaction time" on the tree. In three runs I beat the GT500s by at least a car length simply by putting down .173 reaction times vs their .500 times. I know I'm not the "master of the tree" but practice can win races. The temperatures were really hot and humidity very high and I could not do any better than about 13.5s. The GT500s times were like 13.2s but my reaction time put me a split second ahead. I know they were embarassed, but that's drag racing!
My last trip to the quarter mile at Memphis Motorsport, I consistently beat two GT500s by my much better "reaction time" on the tree. In three runs I beat the GT500s by at least a car length simply by putting down .173 reaction times vs their .500 times. I know I'm not the "master of the tree" but practice can win races. The temperatures were really hot and humidity very high and I could not do any better than about 13.5s. The GT500s times were like 13.2s but my reaction time put me a split second ahead. I know they were embarassed, but that's drag racing!
Wow, you had a huge advantage on the tree. Nothing like a "faster" car chasing you down the track in vain. These days I'm luckey to get an .020 tree advantage yet alone .320.
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'07 Ford Mustang GT Alloy Metallic
4.6 Auto, 3.73 gears, C&L CAI, Diablo 91 octane tune, drag radials, and a saftey loop. What else do I need for a 14 second bracket car?
Eye opener first time 1/4 mile 
and 480torq 
.
I would love to SC my car. But first things first I am in the process of putting my 5.0 back together with 185cc AFR heads, Typhoon intake, 70mm throttle,, 76mm MAF, still looking for 30lb injectors, 255lph pump, f303 cam, shorty headers, etc...
