Installed my DIY Sub Frame Connectors today, what a difference!! - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2010 Thread Starter
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Installed my DIY Sub Frame Connectors today, what a difference!!

Hi,

Ok, I made some sub frame connectors....First, I removed all the carpet and seats so I wouldnt catch them on fire, put the driver seat back in and drove it before installing the SFC's, there was so much rattling, I thought the car was literally going to fall apart, its amazing how much noise is absorbed by the carpet and seats being bolted in . After the install, I drove it with the interior out, and not even a rattle anywhere, huge improvement, even quieter than with the interior!!! I can just imagine that a launch on slicks will be a whole new experience. (I hope)

When I used to push on the front end the back end wouldnt really move, now it is so solid it has a teeter effect because of the rigidity.

I made them myself for 30 bucks, I used 2" x 1 1/2" tubular steel with .125 (1/8th inch) wall thickness. I cut and welded the tubes and made roughly 4 degree bends, I used the car as a template obviously, but it turned out to be around 3-4 degree bends, so that both sub frame mating areas were absolutely flush with maximum center ground clearance, actually this is a must, otherwise the front and rear wont mate without plates or bending and you must have the car on its suspension when installing..

Here are some pictures, I'm done for now, but if in the future I decide to do more, I left enough room to weld some beefy plates to the top of the SFC's to tie into the seat area and possibly even in the back portion. I may fabricate my own torque box reinforcements. I just hope I did an adequate job. I'm my own worst critic, but the welds came out clean for a novice welder such as myself. I had to practice running beads, before I did this. lol Try not to laugh at my welds, it was actually quite difficult as the sub connectors are flimsy compared to the connectors.

I just thought I would share, this has got to be the best and cheapest mod ever. I don't know why I didn't do this a long time ago. I would go as far as saying this should be the first modification one should do on an old Fox, a lot less chassis flex and I am sure more efficient power transfer to the back, where it belongs. I was just so amazed by how solid the car feels, its quite exciting. And on my practically no budget race plan, I thought the DIY SBF's were a success.

Now I will see if I can lower my 60 ft. time (1.87), I'm thinking it should. I have about 200 HP, but how much energy was I losing with the chassis flex?

EDIT: Ugh those are terrible pictures.
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The question is not when's he gon' stop, but who is gonna stop him? ~ Super Soul
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2010
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good stuff man!

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-12-2010
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Nice job.....

In true hotrod tradition.....

Those who can do those who can't buy......
post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-12-2010
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looks good..you should make some seat braces to weld onto those as well..then your ass will feel really solid in the seat

the seat brace forms a "+", then uses nuts to attach to the rear seat bolts hanging down,and welds to the subframe connector itself

like this:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/Mustang/SFC-Installed.jpg

1987 Notchback - N/A stock 302, TFS heads, Holley Systemax, FTI cam, Astro A5
Best so far: 10.92 @ 123mph with a 1.49 60ft
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-12-2010
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Hey your welds are not that bad. I have known people that paid for worse. Sure hope they help.

It's not how fast you go,but how you go fast!!!!!
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-13-2010 Thread Starter
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Alright! Thanks They look ok to me too. I will make some seat braces as well. Thats exactly how I am going to do them need4speed.

So, what should I do next? Ive done a little bit so far, mostly driver mods. lol But my car is old and needs to be rejuvenated...

Ive done this so far:

SFC's
New awesome trac lok rebuild
Solid Motor and Tranny Mounts
Drag Radials
Line Locks

Next up I think:

Airbag
Solid bushings for upper and lower CA's (going to make myself)
reinforce torque boxes
Electric Water Pump
Manual Rack
Adjustable shocks and possibly 4 cyl front springs.
CC plates for alignment enhancement.

Should I put the carpet back in or leave it out and do a nice coat of Rhino lining or something? The carpet is in iffy condition anyway.

The question is not when's he gon' stop, but who is gonna stop him? ~ Super Soul
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-13-2010
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Put the carpet back in that rhino liner is heavy as hell.....
post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-13-2010 Thread Starter
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Hmm ok. Heavy is bad. Ill shampoo the carpet, I guess its not too bad....I threw away the foam crap though. Maybe I wont put anything in. It looks new in there, no rust. Just get some mats..

The question is not when's he gon' stop, but who is gonna stop him? ~ Super Soul
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-14-2010
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If the paint on the floors looks good I would just rino line a small square on the drivers floor so your feet will not slide around. Leave the mats out they just get it the way.

It's not how fast you go,but how you go fast!!!!!
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i took my carpet out and pressure washed it in my driveway..it turned out really good for being like 23 years old

1987 Notchback - N/A stock 302, TFS heads, Holley Systemax, FTI cam, Astro A5
Best so far: 10.92 @ 123mph with a 1.49 60ft
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