I've been wanting an 8.99 run now for 1.5 years and im close.last time out my capri ran a 9.09 on the bottle. im out of ideas. need some input. this is whats under the hood. engine 30 over 460. 13 to 1 compression. cam is a lunati .697in,709ex, dur 303in,313ex. john kasse super cobra jet alum heads with stage1 port and pol. nos 225 shot. c4 trans with 5000 stall and trans brake. had a 433 diff gear and broke it.put 411 that was laying around as a sub didnt make any diff in mph or et.
so what do you guys think? ive been told to change cam and send heads back to kasse for stage 3 port.
.
Last edited by white angel; 08-30-2007 at 05:00 PM.
I have never had a car in that time bracket. I have quite a few friends who do however. Sometimes its not the power that is the issue. It sounds like you have plenty of power. You might want to work on your launch. What do you have for suspension? Have you tuned it for solid weight transfer? If you are getting excessive wheel spin you might want to pay a lot of attention to your suspension and tires. When you are running the E.T.'s you are running, the launch is everything. Just an idea. Good luck with that.
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1987 mustang GT work in progress......
energy suspension eurothane bushings, eibach springs, KYB adjustable struts, Hotchkis camber plates, subframe connectors, 5 lug conversion, rear disk brakes, 3.73 gears with trac-lok, 1980 302 block, forged internals, comp 351W cam flat tappet, Rhoads lifters, Ported lower intake, Mac equal length headers, Magnaflow 2.5 inch cats, 40 series Mufflers and mandrel bent 2.5 pipes, Tremec 3550, hurst shifter,
I've never owned a car in that time bracket either. BUT, like Acarter, I have had friends and known mechanics who have all said "My launch and suspension got me quite a bit of time off my ETs" IF you don't have a wheelie bar, I recommend you GET ONE and tighten it up like crazy.
There's no sense having tons of power if you can't get it to the ground.
It seems to launch ok. I 60ft a 1.38. i have a ladder bar suspention with coil over springs and shocks.it pulls the front tires off the ground about a foot. However i do know my alignment is off. I dont now how bad its hurting me. see its like this i was stuck at a 9.20.I made an ajustment to the retard box for the nos and it ran a 9.09.Most people run their timing at 36 to 40 degrees. with the heads i run they want total timing at 29 or 30 degrees. you are suposed to take 4 degrees out for every 100 shot of nos. im doing 225 shot so i take 8 degrees out. when i ran the 9.09 i took only 6 dgrees out and it went from 9.20 to a 9.09. so could a person in this case be safe with a total timing at 29 degrees and only take 6 degrees out for nos or even less.
Nitrous is one area I have had some experience in. Finding the balance between timing and nosel size can be a pain in the butt. I have seen two cars with the same set up need different combinations of nosels and timing retard. A good way to tell if your engine is running safe is to get a pyrometer and gauge for your exhaust. A lot can be determined about how an engine is running by the exhaust temperature.
As far as suspension goes. At the E.T. that you are running it would be benificial to get adjustable four link suspension. Then you can tune your launch for both weight transfer and straitness. If your rear suspension geometry is off even by a few tenths it can cause the car to lift more on one side than the other. this puts more weight on one tire than the other causing less traction and extra stress on the differential. You want a fair amount of weight transfer with a perfectly straight launch. Both front tires should be equal distance from the ground. You will want to set your rear shocks so that when your tires suck into the wheel wells they have a high enough rate to keep your rear end from bouncing or hopping. this helps increase traction. Your front wheels should slowly come back to the ground, not slam down. rear wheel bars also help keep that power on the ground and help with excess front end lift. Good luck, I hope your car is running 8's soon.
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1987 mustang GT work in progress......
energy suspension eurothane bushings, eibach springs, KYB adjustable struts, Hotchkis camber plates, subframe connectors, 5 lug conversion, rear disk brakes, 3.73 gears with trac-lok, 1980 302 block, forged internals, comp 351W cam flat tappet, Rhoads lifters, Ported lower intake, Mac equal length headers, Magnaflow 2.5 inch cats, 40 series Mufflers and mandrel bent 2.5 pipes, Tremec 3550, hurst shifter,
I've been wanting an 8.99 run now for 1.5 years and im close.last time out my capri ran a 9.09 on the bottle. im out of ideas. need some input. this is whats under the hood. engine 30 over 460. 13 to 1 compression. cam is a lunati .697in,709ex, dur 303in,313ex. john kasse super cobra jet alum heads with stage1 port and pol. nos 225 shot. c4 trans with 5000 stall and trans brake. had a 433 diff gear and broke it.put 411 that was laying around as a sub didnt make any diff in mph or et.
so what do you guys think? ive been told to change cam and send heads back to kasse for stage 3 port.
.
that cam is just fine... you'd be better off swapping to a set of blue thunder (with chevy exhaust ports) or A-460 heads, they are a definate improvement over those Kaase modified cobra jets.
Need That 8.99 Run .gif "Happy")
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