At the track, I launch at about 2000-2500 RPM and spin a bit. If you don't heat the tires, you will spin a lot, no matter what. Turn TA off, on your dash. If you have 3.31 gears in your five speed GT, I don't know what to tell you about the lag you will feel. Get 3.73s and that will go away.
I agree with the gears. With 3.73's in the rear and my old T-5 with a 3.35 1st gear, my car use to throw me back in the seat when launching with Nitto Drag Radials at 3500-4000rpms, not dumping the clutch, just letting it out as fast as possible and mashing the gas to the floor at the same time.. And that was with my old motor at only about 248 hp.
Last year I put in a new motor, 345 hp, a new T-5z , and Hoosier QuickTime Pro DOT Slicks. The T-5z has a 2.95 1st gear unlike the 3.35 in my old T-5 and the car is now a dog out of the hole. It boggs when I launch compared to before. I could really use 4.10's to bring that magic ratio back. This car is not a daily driver, it's used every weekend for drag racing. What is the 1st gear ratio on your car?
I think that the rear gear ratio is the main problem with your take off.
Also a set of Drag Radials or Slicks with the gear change will help you get the traction you need.
If your not going to do a gear change, stick with your street tires or Drag Radials at the most. With out a gear change, and running slicks, you'll bogg even more. Don't get me wrong , it can be done, but you have to find that magic rpm number, and the right amount of clutch slip. To do that consistantly is almost impossible. And if you're bracket racing, you need to be consistant. Also, a slight bit of wheel spin is good. Dead hook and you'll bogg, unless you have a large amout of horse power.
So here we go. 1) Street tires with your current set up.
Don't heat up the tires. Street tire become slippery when heated.
Drive around the water box and launch with out having your rpms up.
I know a guy with a 2007 Parnelli Jones Mustang, and he runs in the low 13's and gets his best 60' times this way. 2) Drag Radials or Slicks with a gear change.
Drive around the water box and back in. Spin the tires quick to wet them and pull ahead about 3'-6'. Line lock (you'll need one these to keep your burn outs consistant) in 2nd gear and clutch in, Rpms to 4000 rpms, dump the clutch, when you see some good smoke , roll out of the burn out and prestage.
Stage, rpms to what ever works best for you and let the clutch out as quick as possible. I wouldn't just side step your foot off of it. Things won't last very long that way!
I don't know where your engine makes the peak horse power, but I would shift somewhere above that so that you stay in the power band.
My peak is 5100 so I shift at 5500. A shift light is a good thing to have to keep you consistant.
It all depends on what you want to do, and how much you want to spend. It can get real crazy money wise.
If you just want to go to the track once in a while to see how fast you can go. I'd go with keeping what you have and run your street tires and just have fun.
If you want to bracket race, go with the gear change,slicks,line lock,
shift light. You can even bracket race with your current set up and have some fun. That's what it's all about!!!!
Good Luck!!! 1993 GT Mustang / Ford Racing GT-40 Crate Motor B-303 Cam / 24 lb. Injectors / Stock Ignition / MSD EFI Blaster Coil / Edelbrock 5.0 Upper and Lower Intake with BBK Phelonic Spacer / Professional Products 70mm Throttle Body / C&L C.A.I. w/76mm MAF / Stock Air Box w/K&N Panel Filter / Holley Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / Electric Fan / BBK Underdrive Pulley's / A.C. Removed / BBK Short Headers / Flowmaster Exhaust / Tremec T-5Z / B&M Short Throw Shifter / Alum. Driveshaft / 3.73 Gears / Eaton H.D. Posi / Moser 31 Spline Axles/ Subframe Connectors / Line Lock / Driveshaft Loop / B&M Short Throw Shifter / BMR Upper and Lower Control Arms / Lakewood Adjustable Drag Shocks/ Holley 190 lph Fuel Pump