i've always owned automatics and never had a problem warming them up but now i own a t-5 and when i let em rip my car wants and ends up going sideways wayyy too much. so how do 5 spd guys keep the car in line at the burn out box
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94 GT VERT Mac Headers, Mac H Pipe Kustom CAI Dynomax Race Bullets
Don't rev the engine as much, do it just enough to get them spinning, do it long enough to smoke them over, then count to 5. That's long enough because the purpose of the burnout is to clean off the surface, and to put heat in them for traction. If you're doing it in first gear, you can either shift into second once you get spinning, or start out in second. Also don't boil the tires off, those who do that for 15-20 seconds are just destroying the tires, and making them slicker, not stickier. Overheating the tires will make them slippery because it draws the oils and resins to the tread surface. And don't drop pressure on street radials. The tires that improve traction with lower pressure is bias ply, not steel belted radials. They're made to give max traction at the recommended psi. When they get low on pressure, the tread will actually be pulled up off of the pavement and you'll only be on the tread edges, decreasing the tread contact patch. Only drag radials and slicks can lower pressure viably and gain traction.
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Ask me why I ran "only" a 13.54.
Member: NMRA Member: White Mustang Registry #362 Member: Fuzzy Dicer
Glad I could help. I've talked to both Goodyear and BFGoodrich about racers lowering tire pressure on street radials, and the bands in them draw the tread surface off of the pavement. I know a lot of guys who do that and their burnout leaves only two small lines rather than one solid black stripe. That indicates low pressure. If you take away the middle of the tread, you lose that amount of traction. Bias ply tires increase the tread face with lower pressure because of the sidewall being able to roll over, and be flat.
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MOOG Certified Tech. For mods and sound clips, see profile and gallery.
Ask me why I ran "only" a 13.54.
Member: NMRA Member: White Mustang Registry #362 Member: Fuzzy Dicer
First if your car goes sideways check tire size to see if both are same highth . One easy way is mark tire at bottom with chalk as well as the ground . Roll car till mark on tire made a compleate turnover and mark ground there again on both sides of ground . Take a tape measure and measure the distance each tire traveled . If one is say 88 inches and other is 89 then one tire is taller than the other around 1/2 inch causeing sideways take off . Donot back into water box for spinning there will cause water to fly up into the fender wells and when you dump the clutch the water will drip on tires while you were sitting causing loss of traction to one side moreso . Just spray water under the tires doing a burn out . If you donot have a line lock , then I always placed my heel on brake ,toe on gas , car in third gear and ease up off clutch . take heel off brake and when car starts to bog somewhat push clutch in and stop . Small hop again to see how she does , stage and go . That is for street car . My race car has a line lock , fairly cheep but near same . No water hole slingging water to drip in any case . I come off line with a 427 9300 rpms .....yes fe fans and cridics I said 9300 rpms . Our 427 will turn 10,000 out the gate .
First if your car goes sideways check tire size to see if both are same highth . One easy way is mark tire at bottom with chalk as well as the ground . Roll car till mark on tire made a compleate turnover and mark ground there again on both sides of ground . Take a tape measure and measure the distance each tire traveled . If one is say 88 inches and other is 89 then one tire is taller than the other around 1/2 inch causeing sideways take off . Donot back into water box for spinning there will cause water to fly up into the fender wells and when you dump the clutch the water will drip on tires while you were sitting causing loss of traction to one side moreso . Just spray water under the tires doing a burn out . If you donot have a line lock , then I always placed my heel on brake ,toe on gas , car in third gear and ease up off clutch . take heel off brake and when car starts to bog somewhat push clutch in and stop . Small hop again to see how she does , stage and go . That is for street car . My race car has a line lock , fairly cheep but near same . No water hole slingging water to drip in any case . I come off line with a 427 9300 rpms .....yes fe fans and cridics I said 9300 rpms . Our 427 will turn 10,000 out the gate .
See Folks, I'm not the only one who says you can twist a big block up into the stratosphere!
2. What is the proper burn out procedure for Hoosier drag tires? ANSWER: With Hoosier's "high traction" compounds, we have found the following burn out procedure to work for most cars. We recommend rolling through the water box to wet the tires. Start the burn out. Once the tires start to "haze", start to slow the burn out down and proceed to the start line. The goal of the burn out is to clean all debris off the tires and heat the just the surface of the tread.
Yeah, when the guys did my muffler tips, they dropped the mufflers down so they didn't burn my bumper when torching off the factory tips they made a comment on all the rubber back there. I thought I got most of it, lol. I guess it will give me some undercoating protection........
Thats always fun. I did a drift event in my 88 Gt Hatch, and the rear quarters were Covered!! I used some old cheapos that I found at the shop for the back. they made alot of smoke too. I ended up blowing them off the rims in the parking lot afterwards, then putting my pony rims back on.
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Dude, wheres my car?
Member of Hawaii Performance Mustangs, Hawaii's most active Mustang club!
Proper way to Warm up tires at the track 
I'll be sure to keep that in mind
