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Old 11-18-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Default Swaybar end links

Has anyone else had problems with breaking the endlinks on the front swaybar? I have the 1" bar and a four cylinder car. With the lowered suspension I have limited travel. I can't see how I am putting more stress than a V8 car with full travel. I have broke 4 of these now. They were all used. Has anyone come up with an alternative? I have some ideas that should cost the same as new replacements. Thanks
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Old 11-19-2008   #2 (permalink)
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Dont get used autoparts, unless its something like an engine block or steering nuckle or something. Go aftermarket, there's no way your going to solve your problem without spending OEM costs. What you should do is give Energy Suspension a call, Im sure they make a kit for you...Worse case they may only carry the end links with urethane bushings. That alone would give you a fix, but to boot if they do have a kit then you get the Sway Bar Polyurethane Bushings too. There are also universal kits. I know you can get a End Link kit at AutoZone, go there with the broken one and measure it up, its way stronger than your stockers. $30......
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Old 11-19-2008   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Stretchmobile View Post
Has anyone else had problems with breaking the endlinks on the front swaybar? I have the 1" bar and a four cylinder car. With the lowered suspension I have limited travel. I can't see how I am putting more stress than a V8 car with full travel. I have broke 4 of these now. They were all used. Has anyone come up with an alternative? I have some ideas that should cost the same as new replacements. Thanks
Mustangs unlimited i think carries new endlinks for the II.... with being lowered that much, ya might have to think about having he ends of the sway bar re-arched to keep it at the same mount angle.... if thats possible
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Old 11-19-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Default end links

It was lowered with dropped spindles. The sway bar is in the stock relationship with the arm. I am going to use 7/16 female heim joints and grade 8, 7/16 fine thread bolts. I'll post pictures after I see if it works. Heim's were $13 each and rated at 6400 lbs. That's more than twice what my car weighs. Can't possibly put that much stress on them.
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Old 11-20-2008   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Stretchmobile View Post
It was lowered with dropped spindles. The sway bar is in the stock relationship with the arm. I am going to use 7/16 female heim joints and grade 8, 7/16 fine thread bolts. I'll post pictures after I see if it works. Heim's were $13 each and rated at 6400 lbs. That's more than twice what my car weighs. Can't possibly put that much stress on them.
Where ya pick those up, those on sweet
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Old 11-20-2008   #6 (permalink)
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"Dont get used autoparts, unless its something like an engine block or steering nuckle or something. "

Dude, I live at pick-a-part. I mix and match used parts all the time. I spent good money for a custom 100 amp alternator from a specialty shop. Gave me nothing but problems. I spent $22 for a '93 Taurus 130 amp g3 at pick-a-part. Picked the best looking one out of 6 there. Took it to Kragens where they tested it and it turned out fine. Spent a couple of minutes with the sawzall to trim one mounting tab. It works flawlessly. My daughter's '65 Mustang needed the plug on the back of the ignition switch. Aftermarket is $34 for a stupid rubber plug with 3 wires. I got it for 50 cents from a '66 T-bird. The 8" rear end I got from the recycler for $20 had a 3.00 rear gear. Pick-a-part had a wrecked 77 Mach one with an 8 inch rear with 3.55 gears. Took my lunch hour to pull it out for $45. Put it right in as it came out and I am still running it. Just have to on the ball and know what you are looking for and sometimes you take a chance. Never with brakes or safety equipment though. Always get the best new stuff for them.
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