I need some help I have a 1977 mustang II ghia V6 2.8L 171 and it wont start, I changed the starter sylinoid, new alternator, new battery, and new plugs and wires, and new distributor cap. See the car started fine when I first got it and after i changed everything out it started fine then also. now it wont start and it is also draining my battery. Can someone please help me out it is pissing me off,I want to get it up and running so I can put my other car in the shop.
Did you make sure all of your grounds were clean and tight when you finished? Also are your battery cables in good condition (corrosion, bare wires, connection)?
checked my connections, everything looks great i tried to turn it over and lost all my power so now i have nothing, do you think my starter would be the problem, really irritated need help, but thanks for your last suggestion.
Did u change tha voltage reaulagtor? that was tha deal with my car. or the starter could be dragin an u may need to get that one rebuilt or get a new one.
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1976 Mustang !! Cobra 302
BORED 40 over
Performer RPM intake
Mallory unilite dis.
750 Holly DP
Super 40 Flowmasters With H-pipe
Richmond Gears 3.55
Ok How many ground wires are there? Is there only one wire to the motor? If so sometimes u need to ground the body 2. I had a 67 chevy truck that had a prob.
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1976 Mustang !! Cobra 302
BORED 40 over
Performer RPM intake
Mallory unilite dis.
750 Holly DP
Super 40 Flowmasters With H-pipe
Richmond Gears 3.55
there are two grounds one to the block and the other to the side wall which has a good connection. thank you for your solution if you have anything else that will help it will greatly apprciated thank you again.
1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
Ok another thing to is take the postive battery cable off and test it to see if its drawin ne amps when the car is turned off. it should draw about 0.4 to 0.6 amps on off. An also check an make sure it is firein at tha plugs.
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1976 Mustang !! Cobra 302
BORED 40 over
Performer RPM intake
Mallory unilite dis.
750 Holly DP
Super 40 Flowmasters With H-pipe
Richmond Gears 3.55
O yea This happen to me i got a new cap an rotor an they gave me tha wrong one well it worked for a lil while but it burned tha rotor up an it quit workin so check that to
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1976 Mustang !! Cobra 302
BORED 40 over
Performer RPM intake
Mallory unilite dis.
750 Holly DP
Super 40 Flowmasters With H-pipe
Richmond Gears 3.55
just take tha cap off an look at the end of tha rotor ull see it if its burned up tha end will look like it melted. An check tha contact points on tha cap to c if they r burned up.
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1976 Mustang !! Cobra 302
BORED 40 over
Performer RPM intake
Mallory unilite dis.
750 Holly DP
Super 40 Flowmasters With H-pipe
Richmond Gears 3.55
Did you turn the distributor at all when changing the cap and rotor? If so, you're timing is probably off, get the #1 piston to top-dead-center on the compression stroke, line up the rotor with point #1 on the distributor cap, and start the engine then set the timing. If you didn't move the distributor, and you've checked everything else in this thread, read on: you can pull the cap off of the distributor and have a friend crank it so you can be sure the rotor is turning when it turns over, if not, you've probably either got a broken or stripped timing gear (the 2.8 uses nylon timing gears that are tooth-to-tooth, no timing chain), a broken or stripped distributor gear, or a snapped roll-pin in the distributor shaft (a small piece of rolled steel that holds the distributor gear in place on the distributor). First check if the rotor isn't turning would be to pull the distributor out to check the gear and the roll pin, if they're fine, you've probably got a timing gear problem. Fords are sneaky with both of these types of problems, throughout pretty much all years/engines, and usualy give no warning (my T-bird snapped the roll pin about 30 seconds after startup to go home from work, my '88 Mustang LX snapped a timing belt (that I'd just checked two days before) on the way to a friend's house, and friend's F150 chewed a distributor gear up once on a 500 mile trip moving his sister to another state.) If it's another problem, feel free to ask for more ideas/help/advice, it's usually free around here.
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1976 Ford Mustang II Ghia: 302 with a 600cfm Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake, Dynomax Blackjack headers, 2.5" exhaust with Flowmaster Super 44s. RJS 11-gallon fuel cell, C4 tranny, chrome 16" pony wheels, fuzzy dice, brown vinyl half-top, and painted in the tackiest color ever (harvest gold, that's why I call it "The Goldenrod").
Also have a 2003 Dodge Ram (lightly modded daily driver/tow rig/office/dining room/home away from home/workshop... I call it "The Big Blue Dawg".)
1977 Mustang II won't start 
