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Old 01-28-2009   #1 (permalink)
brooks721 is offline Rookie

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Default mustang 2 nitrous

hey does anyone have nitrous on there mustang 2 i was going to get it. and i was wondering about in and if it is worth it. and someone told me my car would run real slow and like **** intill a hit the nitrous
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Old 01-28-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Dude, did a chevy guy tell ya that.... If you have a decent 302 in ur car, it shouldnt run like Sh1t. But yes there are a few that have it, on the Mutaangii.net site Idahovideo has it on his C-II
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Old 01-28-2009   #3 (permalink)
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so you are saying to get it then
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Old 01-28-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Your engine is going to be the same as it was before nos until you hit the switch. After you hit it switch hold on.
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Old 01-28-2009   #5 (permalink)
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Nitrous oxide (NOS to the ricers) can be added to gain horsepower on any internal combustion engine. Do your homework before adding a power enhancer such as this. Anyone can buy a kit and slap it on any car BUT there are some things to consider.

Is it legal in your state? are refills easily and locally obtainable without a permit? Not all states will allow refills without a permit.

Will your engine and drivtrain handle the extra power? even a 75 hp gain can find the weak link really fast ie: transmission manual or automatic, rear end, driveshaft, engine and trans mounts and of course engine internals, when engaged it is like an instant shot of power (kick in the pants) going to a larger shot, say 100 - 150 will definately find a weak link unless you have built a very stout street strip car.
Why do you want it? occasional street racer or weekend track warrior?
Although the kits are the cheapest way to add horsepower to your engine, a good set up can cost upwards of $800.00 by the time you add the bottle warmer, purge system, brackets, additional fuel pump etc. and that does not include labor if you are not a do it yourselfer.
Some other things to consider is some state emmisions stations will fail you just seeing the added lines going to your manifold or carb. If you are involved in an accident on the street and your insurance company gets wind of the system whether you used it or not they can deny the claim. Finally if you are going to run at a local track, check the rules, certain classes do not allow nitrous.
Hope this helps.
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Old 02-03-2009   #6 (permalink)
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If your car still has a high-mileage and relatively stock 302 in it, you do NOT want to put a nitrous kit on it.

I will be running nitrous in my II when the new engine is together, but the list of parts going into it so it can handle the giggle-juice is extensive (and expensive).

I'm starting with forged pistons. I've got a good used set out of a low-miles 5.0 that's getting a fresh set of moly rings put on them when they go into the block. Next on the list is a camshaft with a profile that won't hurt performance when running down the street, but has the right lift and duration to further enhance the engine's power when the nitrous is spraying. The engine block (stock 87 5.0 block) is getting girdles, top and bottom, to help hold things together with the RPMs I'll be turning (5500-6000) and the amount of horsepower the engine will be putting out (aiming for 450 horsepower WITHOUT the nitrous, and planning a 100hp nitrous kit). The C4 transmission is coming out of the car while the engine is out, and will be rebuilt with a shift kit, more durable internals, and a stall converter by a local racing shop. The stock 8" rear end is staying for the moment, but I KNOW it will be blown to shreds as soon as I hit the nitrous the first time (and that's assuming it survives for any length of time at all with just the engine pushing it), so I'm checking the local pick-n-pull yard for a similar-dimension 9" (or even, God-forbid, Chevy 12-bolt or even a good Dana) rear end every weekend.

The car will also be getting solid motor mounts, 30 lb/hr injectors, (yeah, going EFI instead of carbureted) a 190lph fuel pump, a recalibrated MAF sensor, an aftermarket intake (haven't decided between a box-style intake or the BBK SSI twin-runner style, neither is likely to clear the hood, but both styles make a ton of power at the top end). I'm leaving out a lot of things here, including what cylinder heads I'm going to use (mainly because I've narrowed it down to a pair by World Products or a pair by AFR, but can't decide which as both have pros and cons) and the fact that every fastener in the engine will be either ARP or Ford Racing to hold it all together.

This is just the way I'm building the driveline up for my car, you certainly don't have to do yours that way, I just listed it all to make a point. Point being, you need to PLAN for nitrous if you want to use it, not just throw it on the car and hope for the best. If you plan ahead, nitrous will give you the ability to kick ass at the drag strip while letting you keep horsepower and drivability in a more streetable range, and still let you get decent longevity out of the driveline and chassis of the vehicle. Not planning ahead will just lead to a lot of broken parts.
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1976 Ford Mustang II Ghia: 302 with a 600cfm Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake, Dynomax Blackjack headers, 2.5" exhaust with Flowmaster Super 44s. RJS 11-gallon fuel cell, C4 tranny, chrome 16" pony wheels, fuzzy dice, brown vinyl half-top, and painted in the tackiest color ever (harvest gold, that's why I call it "The Goldenrod").

Also have a 2003 Dodge Ram (lightly modded daily driver/tow rig/office/dining room/home away from home/workshop... I call it "The Big Blue Dawg".)
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Old 02-21-2009   #7 (permalink)
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I can not put it on the "II" because of the insurance company. Hagerty states that it would void their coverage.
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Old 03-07-2009   #8 (permalink)
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I run a 150 shot on my II and it works good on motor and spray, if you run a 150 on a mild build motor it should knock off a sec from your et's, I am running a 200 shot this year, my car runs low 11's in the 1/4 with a mild 306 and a 150 shot , just make sure you pull timing when your on spray, 2 degrees for every 50 hp that is the factory N2O safe tune, I have my timing locked at 36 degrees and spray it with a 150 @ 36 degrees with no problems, runs hard on motor and spray at 36 , start out with 32 degrees (safe tune) and add timing if needed, reading the plug will tell you what your setup wants/likes timing wise... the key to N2O is a combination of timing and fuel
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Old 03-08-2009   #9 (permalink)
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Definatly some useful info, I myself will just stick with the blower.
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Old 03-09-2009   #10 (permalink)
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Hey 77 ford what do you run without nitrous? Just installed a NX Hitman and wondering what to expect. I will be running a 100 shot but can go to 200 with some tuning.
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Old 03-09-2009   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StangIIttop View Post
Hey 77 ford what do you run without nitrous? Just installed a NX Hitman and wondering what to expect. I will be running a 100 shot but can go to 200 with some tuning.

12.40-12.50 on motor 11.20-11.30 on 150shot
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Old 03-09-2009   #12 (permalink)
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here's a video of me racing a 10.80 car on the street, he got me by 2 1/2 cars, my car is faster now

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Old 03-12-2009   #13 (permalink)
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Nice run. Never been video taped street racing, just at the track. Is that the tangerine color of your car?
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Old 03-13-2009   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StangIIttop View Post
Nice run. Never been video taped street racing, just at the track. Is that the tangerine color of your car?

Its called Ford bright Orange, a friend painted a car with that color and I liked it so I went with it
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Old 03-13-2009   #15 (permalink)
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here is a pic, double click on it for a larger image

mustang-2-nitrous-dsc_0574.jpg
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