If the choke's open, and the idle speed screw is at least 2 turns away from it's minimum, you've got fuel pressure, and the fuel filter's clean, go to your nearest auto parts store and get a rebuild kit for it.
If it's the Motorcraft/Holley/Weber 5200 model 2-bbl. carburetor, it's literally one of the easiest carburetors in the world to rebuild, even a first-timer can be done in a few hours. I'd also highly recommend replacing whatever factory choke (electric/water-heated/heated vacuum) with the manual-choke retrofit kit from Motormites "HELP!" line of products. (I VERY highly recommend GPSorensen's kit for this carburetor, it's by far the best and allows for almost all of the factory variations on this carb).
If its the Motorcraft/Holley 1-bbl. It's also pretty easy to rebuild, but actually more a littlecomplicated than the 2-bbl. due to it's compact design.
If it's an aftermarket Holley 2-bbl. (such as the 2300) You can order the kits from Holley through Jegs, Summit Racing, or any auto parts store. This carb is also extremely easy to rebuild (except for the fact it has clutch-head screws inside sometimes, but you can usually get these out by inserting the tip of a closed pair of needle-nosed pliers into the heads and using the pliers as a screwdriver).
Regardless of which it has, I'd get the Haynes Holley carburetor manual, it along with the instructions from a rebuild kit will be invaluable.
__________________ 1976 Ford Mustang II Ghia: 302 with a 600cfm Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake, Dynomax Blackjack headers, 2.5" exhaust with Flowmaster Super 44s. RJS 11-gallon fuel cell, C4 tranny, chrome 16" pony wheels, fuzzy dice, brown vinyl half-top, and painted in the tackiest color ever (harvest gold, that's why I call it "The Goldenrod").
Also have a 2003 Dodge Ram (lightly modded daily driver/tow rig/office/dining room/home away from home/workshop... I call it "The Big Blue Dawg".) | 
