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Unread 03-25-2012   #1 (permalink)
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Question Where is my ignition switch??

I cant find it! help?? I have googled and searched the forums, can someone please tell me how to get the ignition switch out of my '78? Thank you!
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Unread 03-25-2012   #2 (permalink)
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I took all this apart, and have followed the wires from inside this assembly down under the dash where it goes into the main harness. I am stumped, and a girl, and not real experienced workin on cars....
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Unread 03-25-2012   #3 (permalink)
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If the II is anything like other Fords of the era, (I've never had to fix mine in my II, that's why I don't know for certain) the ignition lock cylinder (the part that the key went into that you've already removed) pushed on a lever that pushes on a long rod that runs down the top of the column to the ignition switch, which would be bolted to the top of the column externally. I've changed the daylights out of them on 70s and 80s Ford trucks and vans.
 
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Unread 03-25-2012   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 74stang2togo View Post
If the II is anything like other Fords of the era, (I've never had to fix mine in my II, that's why I don't know for certain) the ignition lock cylinder (the part that the key went into that you've already removed) pushed on a lever that pushes on a long rod that runs down the top of the column to the ignition switch, which would be bolted to the top of the column externally. I've changed the daylights out of them on 70s and 80s Ford trucks and vans.
Ima go look at that again, I kinda went past that cause all th wires go down the bottom...I'll b back Thank u!
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Unread 03-25-2012   #5 (permalink)
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OMG, I think I see it... I gotta take the whole dash out to get to it??? Really? ima kill my car! Is there an easy way im missing?
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Unread 03-25-2012   #6 (permalink)
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Should be a lot easier to drop the column.

On the old F-series trucks and the Clubwagons I've done them on, it was just four bolts to drop the column, didn't have to take the steering wheel off or anything. Depending on the year of the truck/van, there was sometimes small trim pieces in the way.

You're looking for a little booger that looks like this:

Duralast/Ignition Switch (LS304) | 1978 Ford Mustang 8 Cylinders F 5.0L 2BL | AutoZone.com
 
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Unread 03-26-2012   #7 (permalink)
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Remove the plastic panel from the dash below the column. Undo the four 9/16" nuts holding the column up (there may be a double set on the left side ones, securing the brace plate. If so, remove those, too). The column will then drop down and let you access the ignition switch. Note where it is secured before removing it, as it will need to be adjusted to get it working properly.
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Unread 03-31-2012   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the tips guys. Just an update: I have replaced the switch and it is doing the same thing.. or it was, now it is not running at all, however I think the problem is in my ICM, and am waiting to get a new one to try that. I had a long standing problem of the car not wanting to start after getting warm, and this might just be the next symptom in an ignition control failure. I hope... I also replaced the coil and starter solenoid, just for good measure.
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Unread 03-31-2012   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dazedtrucker View Post
Thanks for the tips guys. Just an update: I have replaced the switch and it is doing the same thing.. or it was, now it is not running at all,
Is it engaging the starter when you turn the key? The switch needs to be properly adjusted or it won't close the circuit.

Quote:
however I think the problem is in my ICM, and am waiting to get a new one to try that.
Its possible, but the Duraspark box doesn't go very often. Usually, the plastic plugs on the wires disintegrate long before the box quits

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I had a long standing problem of the car not wanting to start after getting warm, and this might just be the next symptom in an ignition control failure. I hope... I also replaced the coil and starter solenoid, just for good measure.
Have you double-checked all of the main ground wires? There should be a heavy wire from the engine to the negative side of the battery...AND a heavy wire somewhere from the engine to the chassis of the car. If either of these (or any other ground wire) isn't tight and making solid contact, it'll play all kinds of Hell on diagnosing a problem
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Unread 03-31-2012   #10 (permalink)
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I have had a dura sparkbox fail and the symptoms were the same as you describe. It seems to happen in hotter climets more often. It can also be caused by bad plugs and or wires due to the increased resistance.
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Unread 03-31-2012   #11 (permalink)
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Ignition control module. The car is RUNNING! :kooky: I am so freakin happy!!! LOL! I did drop the column again and re-check the switch, it was good. I haven't driven it yet, gotta put the insides back together. I will see tomorrow if my hard starting when warm is fixed. Thanx all! I hope this thread will save someone else a headache or 2 as well
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Unread 03-31-2012   #12 (permalink)
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Oh, and it wasnt a duraspark box, it was some wierd thing that was black plastic and said "switches" on the front of it. No idea where someone came up with it.
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Unread 04-01-2012   #13 (permalink)
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Still hard start when warm. Ordered a mini starter.... the next chapter begins next week LOL :p
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Unread 04-02-2012   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dazedtrucker View Post
Oh, and it wasnt a duraspark box, it was some wierd thing that was black plastic and said "switches" on the front of it. No idea where someone came up with it.
Got any pictures of it?
 
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Unread 04-24-2012   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dazedtrucker View Post
Still hard start when warm. Ordered a mini starter.... the next chapter begins next week LOL :p
Make sure you double-check the distance the mini-starter throws the bendix and compare it to the original starter. We've had mixed results on our cars, with it sometimes not sending it out deep enough for full contact with the teeth of the ring gear.
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