[dabull]

have 75 II Mach 1 with v6 auto-- Found 75 II with 302 auto--- want to put all 302 peices inplace of v6----what parts will I need to salvage off 302---any pitfalls on this change???? will I need to change trans and rear end are they the same or different what about the bellhousings? Understand I will need a V8 Radiator what about the supports and fans can I just take out on V8 car and put on V6. Any suggestions as to upgrades IE ignition-- will not need to pass smog--exempt - Looking for a clean and cheap conversion Father son project he's 13 but would like to have it done before he's 16 if you know what I mean. Oh will I need to change front springs because of different weights ? are the brakes the same wheels and tires.

Lots of questions is their any source material ie shop manuals I should get-- does anyone have a website where they have documented this cahnage WE are in Sacramento CA area is their a II club that we can join?? sur e there woulkd be a lot of info knowledge there. O

Finally If I do this someone can have the old V8 body if they haul it away ( Note no front suspension-- someone used that in a street rod project? Notchback somewhat yellow Giha rough interior Body panels not bad at all.

Thanks lots of questions and long-- Thanks for any and all the help.

[F150 hybred]

Done that...been there. Your in for a long project bud. You will need to swap everything but the rear end.... were talkin under hood wiring, trans, bell housing, rad.... all that stuff. But it's not all that hard. all the pieces fit in without any real cursing or swearing. and as far as the front spring, leave the V6 springs in... it will ride a tad lower, but the cornering abilities will be well worth the lower ride height.

As far as anything wierd...all the parts that are on the V6 car are interchangable with the the V8 car and vice versa. So there will be no problems. I hope this helps...if you have any more questions feel free to drop me a line. F150 hybred:thumbsup

[F150 hybred]

OH!!! One more thing... the Tachometer is also different...so your gonna have to swap out that too.. it's all easy!!!

[dabull]

F150 Thanks fpr info--- Do I understand you right, rear end is the same, I wil assume that I use the drive shaft from the 302 car. Do I need to change the fuel sending unit in the tank. Assume that I will need a new wiring harness for the 302 anyway- looked at painless site nothing listed for II--302 anyideas ore prices. Will replace raditor with new one any ideas or prices. Did you say I needed to change hood? seen posts re: hood pins to close hood wouldn't the entire 302 surround etc take care of that.. Thanks F150 and anyone else???

[F150 hybred]

yes, the diff is the same (might be different gearing though) both the V6 and V8 used a Ford 8" rearends. As far as the drive shaft, if memory serves... it is the correct lengthand uses the same universal joint. so you can swap yokes if needed. your hood should clear and latch properly also. Tank and sending unit, well...you will have both of those in the parts car...but the V6 should work properly also.
As far as the engine wiring harness, unless your going "concourse" your gonna have to source out a used one.. but you have a parts car, so one is in your hands.
As you can tell, Ford did a good job keeping this simple in the department of parts interchangability. you have it easy bud.... I did mine the hard way... trial and error and bone yards.
Good luck and I hope it all turns out for you! These II's have a bad wrap...and it's not a well deserved one at that. it's gonna surprise you when it's done.
F150 hybred:thumbsup

[ford horse]

If you use aluminum heads & intake manifold on the 302 V8, it may be only a few pounds heavier than the V6. A thicker rear anti-sway bar can easily balance that out, especially if you use slightly wider rear tires. Rear-mounting the battery in the trunk(safely, in a plastic battery box) with that combo would probably get you even better front-to-rear weight distribution than the car had new. You could use a C4 trans or an AOD if you want the overdrive 4th gear. The C4, however, weighs a lot less & has less friction loss (of horsepower). Have fun!

F.H.

[kscoyote]

Originally Posted by ford horse

If you use aluminum heads & intake manifold on the 302 V8, it may be only a few pounds heavier than the V6. A thicker rear anti-sway bar can easily balance that out, especially if you use slightly wider rear tires. Rear-mounting the battery in the trunk(safely, in a plastic battery box) with that combo would probably get you even better front-to-rear weight distribution than the car had new. You could use a C4 trans or an AOD if you want the overdrive 4th gear. The C4, however, weighs a lot less & has less friction loss (of horsepower). Have fun!

F.H.

The main problem with that switch is the cooling. THere isn't much space for a v8 Radiator, and even the OEM setup had cooling issues.

You'll need a three core at least.

[spacegoast]

Engine swap 2.3/2.8 to a 5.0 75-78 Mustang II all models

>Items to remove from car:
>Engine assembly 2.3/2.8
>Power steering hoses pressure and return to rack & pinion 2.3/2.8
>Engine bay wiring harness 2.3/2.8
>Wire from solenoid to starter 2.3/2.8
>Transmission assm and attached wiring,kick down rod,crossmember,Speedo
cable
>gearing teeth,clutch cable. 2.3/2.8
>Drive shaft assembly auto & manual
>Drivers side motor mount support 2.3/2.8
>Accelerator cable linkage (gas)pedal to carburetor 2.3/2.8
>Radiator and fan shroud and mounting brackets 2.3/2.8
>Radiator overflow coolant bottle 2.3/2.8
>Cooling lines (automatic transmission) only 2.3/2.8
>Rear axle assesembley 2.3
>Exhaust assmbley h pipe back 2.3/2.8
>A/C system forward of fire wall 2.3/2.8
>Fresh air ducting to carb to air cleaner 2.3/2.8
>
> Items to reuse from removed assembles 2.3/2.8
>Neutral safety switch and attached wiring C-4 transmission 2.3/2.8
>Single / dual hump crossmember and transmission insulator 2.3/2.8
>Right hand motor mount support 2.3/2.8
>Reverse wiring harness automatic/manual transmission 2.3/2.8
>Automatic or manual transmission handle and shaft assm 2.3/2.8
>8 in axle 2.8
>A/C compressor pump 2.3/2.8
>Alternator 2.3 w a/c and rear defrost 2.8 w a/c rear defrost or high output
>alternator.Harness plugs in to alternator body.Like GM model
>Battery to solenoid wire (hot)
>Coil 2.3/2.8
>
> Mustang II 5.0 items needed to switch bolt in no modifications
>
>Automatic or manual driveshaft 5.0
>Exhaust system 75-76 duels 77-78 single 5.0
>Accelerator cable (gas) 75-78 5.0
>Oil pan assembly and pick up tube 75-78 5.0
>Automatic transmission C-4 75-78
>Automatic transmission dipstick & tube 75-78 5.0
>Manual 4 speed transmission and clutch cable and peddle assem
>Radiator 75-76 /77-78 model 5.0
>Fan shroud 75-76/77-78 model 5.0
>Motor mounts right & left 75-78 5.0
>Radiator coolant bottle 75-76/77-78 5.0
>Automatic kick down rod 75-78 5.0
>Automatic transmission coolant lines 75-78 5.0
>Tackomator electronic rpm reducer 75-76 (white)77-78(black) 5.0 attached to rear of factory v8 tac assm car.
>
>Engine wiring harness match to build date month/year dash harness
>1975 Before 1/20/75 D5ZZ-14290-D
>1975 After 1/20/75 D5ZZ-14290-G
>1976 Before 3/1/76 D6ZZ-14290-D
>1976 After 3/1/76 D6ZZ-14290-H
>1977 Before 6/27/77 D7ZZ-14290-D
>1977/78 With or w/o a/c & heated backglass from 6/27/77 D8ZZ-14290-D
>If not able to match engine & dash harness motor will not turn over 2.8
>harness will work but will have to reloom & arrange engine harness is labor
>intensive to achieve factory look.
>
>Phil Mustang II Specialty Shop
><pschmidt65@prodigy.net>