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Old 04-23-2006   #1 (permalink)
transientflame is offline Rookie


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Default Fixing up a '78, anyone have advice?

I'm fixing up this '78 Mustang II that I bought at a really low price. It didn't run, but it didn't have too many things to fix. I don't know much about cars, but I'm slowly learning on this car. I've gotten the engine to turn over, which was a huge accomplishment, but it isn't firing yet. There are a couple of possible reasons, but I don't know enough to diagnose the problem.

Right now the alternator doesn't have the pulley on it, could that be the reason it isn't firing?

I also have a few more things I need to do after I get it running. I'm putting a new stereo system in it. Anyone have any suggestions concerning power for the system?

Also, I need to re-do the break-lines and it would be great if I could get input on that. I have someone who knows lines helping me with it, but it would be nice to figure things out that I can do without his help.
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Old 04-25-2006   #2 (permalink)
5.0 in a 66 is offline Made Member

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Alternator has nothing to do with it not firing. It will make it very hard to start, even using a fully charged battery, as a charger-charged battery is less charged than one being charged by an alt. You won't be able to run it long until the battery dies either.

How big a system? A Ford 3g 130A alt will run most systems, to probly 400w, but when we start in on the competition stuff you get into the land of dual 200A alts and mulitple batteries.

Take out a sparkplug reattach the wire and lay it against the intake, or something metal. Then at night watch for spark (easier, you could do it in daylight tho) no spark = bad coil, bad ignition box, or bad dizzy sensor (ah, durasparkII something I'm farmilliar with LOL) if the sensor is bad, a reman dizzy is $55

Screwed up brakes = death. If I had your level of auto knowlege I'd get help or have it done. Bad way to die.
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66 coupe 5.0/T5, home-brewed power 4 wheel disc setup, 350hp+, looks like it belongs in 1968
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