The Caddy has a better suspension Zeta platform and has close to equal weight distribution front and back. The Magnetic Ride suspension as standard equipment on V model. The Mustang still has the live rear axle with more of the weight in front as it always has which will be a harder riding car.
Magnetic Suspension sounds like a serious PITA, my neighbor has an older Caddy with some kind of funky Suspension and it cost a $1000 for 2 Shocks!
Magnetic Suspension sounds like a serious PITA, my neighbor has an older Caddy with some kind of funky Suspension and it cost a $1000 for 2 Shocks!
YES THEY ARE EXPENSIVE I KNOW SOMEONE WHO OWNS A CORVETTE WITH THE MAGNETIC RIDE SUSPENSION WITH 27,000 MILES ON WITH TOTALLY NO PROBLEMS WITH ANYTHING ON THAT CAR. IT IS EXPENSIVE ESPECIALLY IF IT IS A CAD OR A CORVETTE. BUT THEN AGAIN WHAT ISN'T EXPENSIVE ON A CAD OR CORVETTE.
New suspension systems may be a dream when they are first released but tend to have problems later like any other new ideas.
Example
1990 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
MSRP in 1990 $29,XXX
Suspension: Air ride. Air bags take the place of coil springs.
Initial response: Everybody loved the Air suspension in the Mark VII's when they were new, I've heard many people say that it is the best suspension they have ever felt.
40,000-80,000 miles later: Bags start leaking, many of the various components develop problems, and to avoid the constant repairs of the new dreaded air ride people buy the coil spring conversion kit.
This is why so many of the Mark VII's sell for less than $2000 these days when they started out at $29,XXX.....in 1990!
Now hopefully these systems have been tested enough to ensure that they will not have problems in the future, but only time will tell...
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1990 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
FMS Ceramic Shorties, pacesetter off road h, force mufflers, 3 row radiator, smog eliminator pulley, underdrive pullies, Yukon 3.55 gears, posi diff... Waiting in garage: rebuilt block, Crane 1.7 rr, bare GT40 cast heads, Summit billit distributor, 9mm plug wires, MSD blaster coil, GT40 upper and lower intake, E303 cam 70% of drivers say "oh Sh** when they hit ice, the other 30% are from Michigan and say "Hold my beer and watch this sh**!"
for the info. The car will stay in factory stock condition especially during the warranty period. I am not into moding and just prefer it to be right the way I want it straight from the factory.
Yeah you might want to keep it factory, but when you see a GT500 on the road it is a pretty good chance that it won't be factory. So, your car will no longer be faster even though it might have been from the factory. If you don't won't to mod the car that is fine, but all I'm saying is if you change the pulley on a GT500 and add K&N filter you can over 50 horses. Something to think about when you pull up in your Caddy and see GT500. All I'm saying is the aftermarket is something a lot of people consider when buying a performance car.
Yeah you might want to keep it factory, but when you see a GT500 on the road it is a pretty good chance that it won't be factory. So, your car will no longer be faster even though it might have been from the factory. If you don't won't to mod the car that is fine, but all I'm saying is if you change the pulley on a GT500 and add K&N filter you can over 50 horses. Something to think about when you pull up in your Caddy and see GT500. All I'm saying is the aftermarket is something a lot of people consider when buying a
performance car.
The thread is for the KR.... if you cant be happy with 550 horsepower then shame on you lol. The car is already performance, and it will teeter on the line of reliability if you add another 100 or so horses...
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1990 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
FMS Ceramic Shorties, pacesetter off road h, force mufflers, 3 row radiator, smog eliminator pulley, underdrive pullies, Yukon 3.55 gears, posi diff... Waiting in garage: rebuilt block, Crane 1.7 rr, bare GT40 cast heads, Summit billit distributor, 9mm plug wires, MSD blaster coil, GT40 upper and lower intake, E303 cam 70% of drivers say "oh Sh** when they hit ice, the other 30% are from Michigan and say "Hold my beer and watch this sh**!"
From what I read the horsepower did not mess up the driveability of the car, and remember you still have to deal with your supercharge vetts, I guess cads, and porches, so why not take the cheap horsepower. I mean I would. If you already have 550 horses what is another 80 are so (lol).
From what I read the horsepower did not mess up the driveability of the car, and remember you still have to deal with your supercharge vetts, I guess cads, and porches, so why not take the cheap horsepower. I mean I would. If you already have 550 horses what is another 80 are so (lol).
durability, and reliability...
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1990 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
FMS Ceramic Shorties, pacesetter off road h, force mufflers, 3 row radiator, smog eliminator pulley, underdrive pullies, Yukon 3.55 gears, posi diff... Waiting in garage: rebuilt block, Crane 1.7 rr, bare GT40 cast heads, Summit billit distributor, 9mm plug wires, MSD blaster coil, GT40 upper and lower intake, E303 cam 70% of drivers say "oh Sh** when they hit ice, the other 30% are from Michigan and say "Hold my beer and watch this sh**!"
Yeah you might want to keep it factory, but when you see a GT500 on the road it is a pretty good chance that it won't be factory. So, your car will no longer be faster even though it might have been from the factory. If you don't won't to mod the car that is fine, but all I'm saying is if you change the pulley on a GT500 and add K&N filter you can over 50 horses. Something to think about when you pull up in your Caddy and see GT500. All I'm saying is the aftermarket is something a lot of people consider when buying a performance car.
I agree on the street this happens and the GT-500 might be easier to mod but In this scenario it would be factory vs. factory cars.
The thread is for the KR.... if you cant be happy with 550 horsepower then shame on you lol. The car is already performance, and it will teeter on the line of reliability if you add another 100 or so horses...
ANY CAR YOU MODIFY THERE IS ALWAYS A CHANCE OF MAKING IT UNRELIABLE VS. FACTORY STOCK. THAT'S WHY IF ONE WAS EVER TO GET ANY CAR, THE CAR IS WORTH MORE IN ITS FACTORY ORIGINAL CONDITION. BESIDES WHO WOULD WANT TO BUY A CAR FROM JOHN SMITH GT-500 TO A FORD SHELBY GT-500?
OPEN THE HOOD OF A GT-500 AND EXPECT TO SEE A FACTORY SUPERCHARGED PURE BRED GT-500 BUT INSTEAD FIND MOROSO VALVE COVERS, EDELBROCK WHATEVER NAMES ON THE ENGINE.
for the info. The car will stay in factory stock condition especially during the warranty period. I am not into moding and just prefer it to be right the way I want it straight from the factory.
just like the factory stock 88 gt we hear so much about.......
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercedez L.
The Caddy has a better suspension Zeta platform and has close to equal weight distribution front and back. The Magnetic Ride suspension as standard equipment on V model. The Mustang still has the live rear axle with more of the weight in front as it always has which will be a harder riding car.
and this should clear up the magnetic suspension questions....
a vehicle having a rigidly attached magnetic armature, said magnetic
armature including a first series of positioned across said
vehicle and extending generally from one lateral side of the vehicle to
another lateral side of the vehicle, all of the magnets in said first
series of magnets being generally parallel to one another;
a first magnetic wall disposed laterally adjacent said vehicle and
extending longitudinally along a desired direction of vehicle said
first magnetic wall comprising a second series of magnets, each of the
magnets in said second series having a particular size and a
North-to-South axis pointing in the same direction as the desired
direction of vehicle travel, each of said permanent magnets of said
particular size in said second series being separated from the next
successive permanent magnet in said second series by a thinner magnet,
each of said thinner magnets having a pole-to-pole length which is shorter
than the lateral width of said magnets of a particular size in said second
series, said thinner magnets further having a North-to-South axis pointing
perpendicular to the North-to-South axis of said magnets of a particular
size in said second series and pointing generally toward a vehicle side of
the first magnetic wall; and
a second magnetic wall disposed generally parallel to said first magnetic
wall and laterally adjacent to said vehicle but opposite from said first
magnetic wall, said second magnetic wall comprising a of
magnets, each of said magnets in said third series having said particular
size and a North-to-South axis pointing in an opposite direction from the
desired direction of vehicle travel, each of the permanent magnets in said
third series being separated from the next successive permanent magnet of
said particular size in said third series by a thinner magnet, each of
said thinner magnets in the second magnetic wall having a pole-to-pole
length which is shorter than the lateral width of said magnets of a
particular size in said third series, said thinner magnets in the second
magnetic wall further having a North-to-South axis pointing in the same
general direction as the North-to-South axis of the thinner magnets in the
first magnetic wall;
wherein said first and second magnetic walls create magnetic fields which
exert propelling forces on said armature and thereby cause the vehicle to
accelerate in the desired direction of vehicle travel.
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Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
The modifications don't go that far and don't make the car unreliable. That's like saying a K&N filter, air mass meter, headers, tb make a fox body unreliable. Stock for stock one car might be better, but not many people stay stock. You my choose to, but a lot of people I know would put on those easy modifications and take the easy horses is all I'm saying. That might not be the case for you, but the next person different story. Plus those modifications are real easy to take off. Most people buy a performance car to do that. I'm not saying one car is better than the other. If you want to live it stock that's fine, but trust not everyone is going to do that and it's not going to mess up the driveability. Your not taking the engine to make these modifications.
The modifications don't go that far and don't make the car unreliable. That's like saying a K&N filter, air mass meter, headers, tb make a fox body unreliable. Stock for stock one car might be better, but not many people stay stock. You my choose to, but a lot of people I know would put on those easy modifications and take the easy horses is all I'm saying. That might not be the case for you, but the next person different story. Plus those modifications are real easy to take off. Most people buy a performance car to do that. I'm not saying one car is better than the other. If you want to live it stock that's fine, but trust not everyone is going to do that and it's not going to mess up the driveability. Your not taking the engine to make these modifications.
Well I was referring to adding something like 100 horsepower to it as I stated above, which would require engine work not just air flow upgrades....
Air intake bolt ons are nothing like cams and gears and so on....
I dont consider k&n, mass air, and headers on a fox to be "heavily modded as they add almost no horsepower with everything else stock...
__________________
1990 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
FMS Ceramic Shorties, pacesetter off road h, force mufflers, 3 row radiator, smog eliminator pulley, underdrive pullies, Yukon 3.55 gears, posi diff... Waiting in garage: rebuilt block, Crane 1.7 rr, bare GT40 cast heads, Summit billit distributor, 9mm plug wires, MSD blaster coil, GT40 upper and lower intake, E303 cam 70% of drivers say "oh Sh** when they hit ice, the other 30% are from Michigan and say "Hold my beer and watch this sh**!"
just like the factory stock 88 gt we hear so much about.......
and this should clear up the magnetic suspension questions....
a vehicle having a rigidly attached magnetic armature, said magnetic
armature including a first series of positioned across said
vehicle and extending generally from one lateral side of the vehicle to
another lateral side of the vehicle, all of the magnets in said first
series of magnets being generally parallel to one another;
a first magnetic wall disposed laterally adjacent said vehicle and
extending longitudinally along a desired direction of vehicle said
first magnetic wall comprising a second series of magnets, each of the
magnets in said second series having a particular size and a
North-to-South axis pointing in the same direction as the desired
direction of vehicle travel, each of said permanent magnets of said
particular size in said second series being separated from the next
successive permanent magnet in said second series by a thinner magnet,
each of said thinner magnets having a pole-to-pole length which is shorter
than the lateral width of said magnets of a particular size in said second
series, said thinner magnets further having a North-to-South axis pointing
perpendicular to the North-to-South axis of said magnets of a particular
size in said second series and pointing generally toward a vehicle side of
the first magnetic wall; and
a second magnetic wall disposed generally parallel to said first magnetic
wall and laterally adjacent to said vehicle but opposite from said first
magnetic wall, said second magnetic wall comprising a of
magnets, each of said magnets in said third series having said particular
size and a North-to-South axis pointing in an opposite direction from the
desired direction of vehicle travel, each of the permanent magnets in said
third series being separated from the next successive permanent magnet of
said particular size in said third series by a thinner magnet, each of
said thinner magnets in the second magnetic wall having a pole-to-pole
length which is shorter than the lateral width of said magnets of a
particular size in said third series, said thinner magnets in the second
magnetic wall further having a North-to-South axis pointing in the same
general direction as the North-to-South axis of the thinner magnets in the
first magnetic wall;
wherein said first and second magnetic walls create magnetic fields which
exert propelling forces on said armature and thereby cause the vehicle to
accelerate in the desired direction of vehicle travel.
You crack me up!!!
In my opinion, a tow hitch is a tow hitch... it might not want to be a tow hitch, but it's still there!
Do we get to see some pics of this one when you get it???
Well I was referring to adding something like 100 horsepower to it as I stated above, which would require engine work not just air flow upgrades....
Air intake bolt ons are nothing like cams and gears and so on....
I dont consider k&n, mass air, and headers on a fox to be "heavily modded as they add almost no horsepower with everything else stock...
The modifications don't go that far and don't make the car unreliable. That's like saying a K&N filter, air mass meter, headers, tb make a fox body unreliable. Stock for stock one car might be better, but not many people stay stock. You my choose to, but a lot of people I know would put on those easy modifications and take the easy horses is all I'm saying. That might not be the case for you, but the next person different story. Plus those modifications are real easy to take off. Most people buy a performance car to do that. I'm not saying one car is better than the other. If you want to live it stock that's fine, but trust not everyone is going to do that and it's not going to mess up the driveability. Your not taking the engine to make these modifications.
Some people put on too much oil on the K & N and then ruin their Mass Airflow Sensor.
for the info. The car will stay in factory stock condition especially during the warranty period. I am not into moding and just prefer it to be right the way I want it straight from the factory.
