[MustangFred04]

Soory for this is a follow up on my first post. I forgot to include the "Repack wheel bearing" in the Title.
I need to repack the wheel bearing but I don't know how to remove the rotor disc and the center wheel nuts that are holding the disc. There is a metal plate cover on the two nuts. Do I need to spread the plate cover or loosen the nuts with the metal plate cover? I don't see any cotter pin that's holding the nuts. I need someone expertice. Thank you.

[speedytang]

The 94+ are fixed sealed hubs. You can't pack the bearings you replace the bearing assy when they go bad.

[MustangFred04]

Thanks speedytang. Still I need to check the wheel bearings or maybe just need a tightening. There is too much noise (humming sound) on the wheel while driving. Can you tell me how to tighten the nuts. The nuts are enclosed with metal plate not cotter pin. Do I have to tighten the nut with the enclosed plate on it?

[speedytang]

NO ADJUSTMENT...SEALED UNIT. Makes noise REPLACE.

[fivepointohpony]

Did you ever replace your wheel bearings and if so did it resolve your noise concerns? My 94 sounds the same as your ride and I am going to replace the wheel bearings too. I was hoping my issue was just tires at first.

[play4life]

I just replaced mine last night.

Your front wheel bearing are easy to replace - you just replace the whole hub and they are about $60 each at auto zone.

You will also need the hub puller (can rent from Auto Zone too)

1. take your wheel off
2 take your brake caliper off (2- 12mm bolts. you may have to hold the float pin to loosen)
3. Unbolt the caliper bracket (2- 15mm bolts)
4. separate your rotor from the hub. take off the two retainer washers off from the studs - if it's stuck, keep it on and separate off the car.
5. grab your marker and mark the center hub nut position on the spindle (if you don't have a tq wrench that goes up to 200-295#)
6. put your 36mm socket and take off carefully - do not wrench hard or you will need to buy a new one (they are made to distort and only be used once - but I've used them over w/o a prob)
7. use the puller and pull the hub off. Make sure the race comes with it - or make sure to take the race off too after the hub is off.
8. Replace with new hub

Hope this helps.

[fivepointohpony]

For a follow up I did replace the wheel bearing hub and there were a few headaches.

I wasted the dust cap and found out it is a dealer only item, part number F3DZ-1N135-A, $5.99 each. Don't waste your time asking the local parts houses for it, they dont have it; check out the dust cap against the hubs when you buy them and you'll see what I mean.

I ended up buying a torque wench to tighten the hub to 245 ft pounds; The socket cost $15.99 and the wench $62.99.

The hub cost 72.99 and came with a one year warranty.

The noise issue was resolved since the hub bearing was shot and needed to be replaced.

Even after all of the hassle, it was worth it to save the money the dealer or some local repair shop would have charged and now have the experience on how to work on one.

Hopefully this guide will save someone a hassle and get them back on the right track and back on the road.