[SCHOONER]

Hi Guys

I'm about to do some lead work on my '66 Mustang.

I started to use regular 30/70% lead and found out that I shouldn't be using that stuff.

Especially after sanding the stuff. So I STOP!

Now I'm reading a little bit about LEAD FREE BODY LEAD and can't seem to get the idea in; IF ITS LEAD FREE WHERE'S THE LEAD COUNT ?

Why do they call it 'LEAD FREE LEAD' when I believe its got LEAD IN IT

Only thing I know so far is: Regular Body Lead Got; 30% TIN & 70%LEAD IN IT. Other than that i know NOTHING.

Can any you guys out there tell me what's the perentage of what in LEAD FREE BODY LEAD HELP

I do hope you get what I'm so hard trying 2 explain.

THANKS GUYS
GOD BLESS YOU ALL

Schooner

[Tominator]

I'm no body man, but let me attempt the explanation.

In the days before time the only body filler available was lead. Responds to moderate heat that will not warp sheet metal. You can grind it and shape it easily using hand tools. Primer adheres to hit just like metal.

So, 'leading' has become a generic term.

With complete idiots now running government, 'lead' has become the latest excuse to confiscate money.

The ONLY hazard lead presents is if it it INGESTED!

Thanks to the EPA and their never ending efforts to ban just about everything, the industry has started selling lead free 'lead.'

All the properties of real lead...it just costs more..

Remember the thread about the Mustang built to honor the Mustang fighter of WWII fame? The reason it was bright silver which was unpainted aluminum is that late in the war we ran out of lead. Lead added to paint was the only way that the paint would adhere to metal.

[The Greek]

SCHOONER, how's it going? On the new lead-free "LEAD" they call it "SOLDER". The percentages would be listed in a MSDS for the particular alloy and brand that you're using. The metals that most alloys have is TIN, COPPER and ZINC. The new alloys use a flux that is made for lead-free, but can be used with lead also.