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Old 04-16-2003   #1 (permalink)
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Default Oil change time!

Well I went to Kragen today and bought all the tools/equipment I'll need to change the oil in my car. I want to do all the maintainence myself so I can better understand how my car works and stuff.

I picked up a K&N oil filter, funnel and drain pan, then ran over to the oil and was stumpted. What weight oil should I run? All my life we've had 4 cylinders and one 6 cyl truck. My dad swore by 20-50w in the truck but I wasn't sure how a high performance V8 would run with it. I figured this would be a good chance to hear from some experienced people, what weight oil do you run in your car and why?

Some personal info is that I do a lot of stop and go driving and the whether is nice and warm out here. Any suggestions? I bought some 20-50w Penzoil for now but my next oil purchase will be a little more educated . Thanks guys!

Oh, I also plan on trying that AMSOIL stuff next time, hehe.
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Old 04-16-2003   #2 (permalink)
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20w-50 for engines with over 75,000 miles on them ... a nice new motor up till then can run 30 or 40 weight just fine.. most importantly dont forget to
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Old 04-16-2003   #3 (permalink)
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Oh, also how many quarts should my engine hold?

Don't forget to what, Vortex?
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Old 04-18-2003   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Terrible Juan
Oh, also how many quarts should my engine hold?

Don't forget to what, Vortex?
5 quarts of oil

Change the mufler bearing. When those things go..... WOW
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Old 04-18-2003   #5 (permalink)
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Be sure to drain both plugs. Me being the dumb kid I am, spent about 2 hours trying to get the oil to drain through the front plug. Come to find out, there's one in the back also.
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Old 04-18-2003   #6 (permalink)
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Yea I know. What is the purpose of that anyways? My friend told me its a double sump or something?
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Old 04-18-2003   #7 (permalink)
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the double sump was made so that the pan will clear a part of the frame, if you are serious about being able to work on your car, go find a chilton's auto manual, has pretty much anything you need to know, and if it isn't in there, then you can always turn to someplace like this to ask for help, you should be able to find one at your local autozone (you might find a similar one with the name hayne's on it, personal preference, but i don't like them as much as chilton's)
always glad to see someone willing to do it themselves instead of paying someone
when you change those muffler bearings, make sure that you check your blinker fluid
good luck
evan

PS - in case you didn't know, the muffler bearings, and the blinker fluid were jokes, they don't exist
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Old 04-18-2003   #8 (permalink)
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Bullsnot the muffler bearings dont exist.. I had to rotate myne the other day.. werent due for a change yet...
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Old 04-18-2003   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vortex
Bullsnot the muffler bearings dont exist.. I had to rotate myne the other day.. werent due for a change yet...
um, the bearing looked okay but you might want to think about replacing the muffler.
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Old 04-19-2003   #10 (permalink)
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Yeah... upgrade those bearings too... they've got teflon coated ones now, from Flowmaster! Call Summit and ask them...
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Old 04-19-2003   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by asa67_stang
the double sump was made so that the pan will clear a part of the frame, if you are serious about being able to work on your car, go find a chilton's auto manual, has pretty much anything you need to know, and if it isn't in there, then you can always turn to someplace like this to ask for help, you should be able to find one at your local autozone (you might find a similar one with the name hayne's on it, personal preference, but i don't like them as much as chilton's)
always glad to see someone willing to do it themselves instead of paying someone
when you change those muffler bearings, make sure that you check your blinker fluid
good luck
evan

PS - in case you didn't know, the muffler bearings, and the blinker fluid were jokes, they don't exist
Yea, I knew those were jokes. Umm, the guy gave me a Haynes manual when he sold me the car so I've looked though that and stuff. I know how to change oil and all that but my main questions were what weight oil to use and yada yada yada. Hehe.
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Old 04-19-2003   #12 (permalink)
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ok, i'm pretty sure that in my chiltons it has the correct weight to use, not sure though, gonna have to look sometime...
i know that if you run too heavy of an oil, it can rob power, i usually use 10W-30 with some Lucas oil stabilizer and a motorcraft filter, and i've got no problems (both cars have over 80K on them)
i've never used the K&N filter, anyone had any experience with it? does it actually filter better?
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Old 04-20-2003   #13 (permalink)
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Well, I haven't owned the car long enough to tell if the K&N filter has made a difference or not, but I know it hasn't hurt anything.
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Old 04-21-2003   #14 (permalink)
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Glad to see you are using a Haynes manual. I think the enclosed translations will come in handy.



Haynes: Rotate counter-clockwise.
Translation: Clamp with vice-grips then beat repeatedly with hammer
counter-clockwise.

Haynes: This is a snug fit.
Translation: Clamp with vice-grips then beat repeatedly with hammer.

Haynes: This is a tight fit.
Translation: Clamp with vice-grips then beat repeatedly with a hammer.

Haynes: As described in Chapter 7...
Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start. Now
you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox.

Haynes: Pry off
Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into...

Haynes: Undo...
Translation: Go buy a can of WD40 (giant economy size).

Haynes: Retain tiny spring...
Translation: PINGGGG - "Where the hell did that go?"

Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb...
Translation: OK - that's the glass bit off, now fetch some good pliers
to dig out the socket part (and maybe a piece of glass or two).

Haynes: Lightly...
Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your
forehead are throbbing then clamp with vice-grips then beat repeatedly
with hammer.

Haynes: Weekly checks...
Translation: If it isn't broken don't fix it.

Haynes: Routine maintenance...
Translation: If it isn't broken, it's about to be. We warned.

Haynes: One Difficulty rating.
Translation: An infant could do this... so how did you manage to **** it
up?

Haynes: Two Difficulty rating.
Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a
low, teensy weensy number... but you also thought the wiring diagram was a map of the Tokyo underground (in fact that would have been more use to you)
.
Haynes: Three Difficulty rating.
Translation: Make sure you won't need your car for a couple of days.

Haynes: Four Difficulty rating.
Translation: You're not seriously considering this are you?

Haynes: Five Difficulty rating.
Translation: OK - but don't ever carry your loved ones in it again.

Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this...
Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha.

Haynes: Compress...
Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on it, throw
it at the garage wall, then find some vice-grips and a hammer...

Haynes: Inspect...
Translation: Squint at really hard and pretend you know what you are
Looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your wife "Yep, as I
thought, it's going to need a new one"

Haynes: Carefully...
Translation: You are about to suffer deep abrasions.

Haynes: Retaining nut...
Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust.

Haynes: Get an assistant...
Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know.

Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark plugs removed.
Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much
harder. Once that sinking pit of your stomach feeling has subsided, you
can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly refit the spark plugs.

Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
Translation: Yeah, right. But you swear in different places.

Haynes: Pry away plastic locating pegs...
Translation: Snap off...

Haynes: Using a pin punch...
Translation: Clamp with vice-grips then beat repeatedly with hammer.

Haynes: Everyday toolkit
Translation: AAA Card & Mobile Phone

Haynes: Apply moderate heat...
Translation: Unless you have a blast furnace, don't bother. Alternatively, clamp with vice-grips then beat repeatedly with hammer.
--------------------
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Old 04-22-2003   #15 (permalink)
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ah, but you forgot the way they describe how to do ANY repair...
4 steps...

1.) Place vehicle on Jackstands
2.) Remove negative battery cable
3.) Remove and inspect part
4.) Installation is reversal of removal
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