[Jess]

Forum Leader and Others

I am trying to decide which way to go next. Do I want to buy a 351W/427 from CHP or Roush or take the weight gain and buy a
crate 460/514 from Ford Performance. If I understand articles which I have read strokers have a reground crank to off set the journal??? which in turn weakens the crank and creates a weird angle for the rods therefore you have to make sure the cylinder walls are notched??? Doesn't this cause longevity problems for a daily driver? Which would be the better way to go for my 69? or just go with a slightly modified 460 because it is a such torque monster in the first place?

Thanks
Jess

[JUSTNLX]

In the past, and still some cheaper kits, they offset ground the cranks for more stroke. Now there are purpose built cranks for strokers, much stronger.

When stroking an engine to it's max the piston pin would end up in the oil control rings cause oil consumption. Allot of companies have addressed this problem and is much better.

The real problem I see is the "weird angle for the rods" or rod ratio. As you stroke an engine, within the given deck heigth, the angle of the rod increases. This increases side load on the piston as the rod angle tries to shove the piston into the cyl wall. The piston and cyl wall wear much quicker. For racing a high rod ratio is not that bad, but for a daily driver it will tend to wear out faster

[FoxChassis]

Your '69 what with what engine?

Sometimes the stock crank can be offset ground. Sometimes a different factory crank is cut-down and used, e.g. 351C crank in a 302 block or a 400 crank in a 351W block. Most of the time an aftermarket replacement crank is used because for one, they'd be stronger than a cut-down factory crank and two, the cast material is stronger than factory (if it's cast, forged or billet steel, it's obviously stronger than the factory cast iron crank).

Block clearancing (more specifically the bottom of the cylinders) depends on the block and the stroke. For example, a 302 stroked .400" (342 w/ stock bore or 347 w/ .030" overbore are two most common) requires notches roughly the size of dime in the bottom of each cylinder, to clear the rod bolts.

Then you need much different rods and pistons than what a stock rebuild would call for. And an intake and exhaust tract that can flow much more than the original displacement required.

[Jess]

FoxChassis

I am the orginal owner of a 69 Mustang Coupe that in 99 we gutted and rebuilt from the ground up. 9 inch rear 3.25 to 3.75 ratios with Detroit Locker. Newly rebuilt C4 with great shift kit, modified 351W-Comp cam and $400.00 roller rockers, Edelbrock Performer intake, modified Edelbrock 600cfm carb, total MSD ignition system, Hedman long tube headers. It kicks but I want more. Just like a 58 year old 18 year old.

Jess

[FoxChassis]

A very popular stroke (due to its cost-effectiveness) for the 351W is 3.85", which brings the displacement to 387 CI (stock bore) or 393 CI (.030" overbore).

The reason it's so cost-effective is because the rods are stock-length 351W and the pistons are stock-size (piston pin height) 302. All you need is a crank with a 3.85" stroke (cast nodular iron, cast steel, forged steel, billet - your choice, depending on power level). Replace the rods (H-beam or I-beam, forged, billet, etc.) and or pistons (hypo, hyper, forged) as is necessary.

Another popular stroke is 4.000" which brings the displacement to 408 CI (.030" overbore). But you can't use stock con rods. So it costs a bit more than 387/393W.

[Jess]

FoxChassis

Thanks for your input. Would you know the weight difference between 351W and a 460? My friends here suggest I would be better off going with an new Edelbrock heads and a better Edelbrock intake with a 700-750 cfm carb plus a 3 stage nitros kit.??? What do you think?

Thanks
Jess

[FoxChassis]

Weight difference between a 351W longblock and a 460 longblock is about 130 lbs.

I always suggest a stroker over a power adder if only one can be had. A power adder can always be added later if you wish. Nitrous is nice but it's cumbersome refilling bottles frequently. And you should build the engine according to the power adder. They're not something you just slap on anything you fancy.

Also 700-750 cfm is too much for 351 CI, unless you keep the RPM over 8000.