Ok guys, new problem. Sometimes, when the car is coming to a stop, the revs go below 500 and the engine either wants to die or dies. It only does it when coming to a stop. Could it be the transmission? Could it be the ignition system (cap and rotor hasn't been changed, sparkplugs and wires are 2 years old, coil is in a bad shape)? What else could it be?
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1995 Mustang GT Rio Red with red and black leather interior (1 of 20 made by Ford), underdrive pullies, transmission cooler, shift kit, 2600 RPM 9" torque converter, Bassani complete exhaust system, 180* thermostat, 3.73 gears, 14* timing, 190 lph fuel pump, MAC CAI, ported stock intake, ported stock throttle body, Mallory fuel pressure regulator, Accel coil, custom chip
Best E/T : 14.43 @ 96.77 with 2.32 60ft with a bad transmission and torque converter in 84* weather
1992 GT......
AOD to T-5 conversion, 3.73's, Zoom HD clutch, ported E7's, cut open and ported factory intake, ported stock throttle body, subframe connectors, 1.5" headers, o/r h-pipe, flowmaster cat back, MAC air tube, K&N conical filter, homemade heat sheild for filter, homemade cold air kit, MSD coil, 9mm plug wires, advanced base timing to 12 degrees, Chrome Pony rims, 235/55/r16 Cooper Cobras..... definately more to come!! ALL of this was done by myself....including the porting and gea
OK now I bumped up the idle a little bit and experimented with the car. If I am stopping or take my foot of the accelerator pedal from 50 mph, at 45 mph the rev neddle starts to jump up and down but not too much. I tried putting the car in neutral when it started to go up and down and the revs went ok but when stopping the car completely (in neutral) at about 30 mph it did it again, so I am thinking that the trasnmission cant be, I dont know..........
The engine still wants to quit or die occasionally when coming to a full stop.
Any input? I still have to clean the IAC.
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1995 Mustang GT Rio Red with red and black leather interior (1 of 20 made by Ford), underdrive pullies, transmission cooler, shift kit, 2600 RPM 9" torque converter, Bassani complete exhaust system, 180* thermostat, 3.73 gears, 14* timing, 190 lph fuel pump, MAC CAI, ported stock intake, ported stock throttle body, Mallory fuel pressure regulator, Accel coil, custom chip
Best E/T : 14.43 @ 96.77 with 2.32 60ft with a bad transmission and torque converter in 84* weather
Last edited by defacto_pr; 07-27-2002 at 08:27 AM.
what do you mean that you bumped up the idle? if you turned that screw on the side of the throttle body then i would put it back because that changes more than just the idle. i think that adjusting that screw will change how the iac functions(somebody please say something if im wrong)
why dont you try the stuff we all suggested. most likely youll find a solution with one of those, but make sure to turn that screw back to where it was.
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1992 GT......
AOD to T-5 conversion, 3.73's, Zoom HD clutch, ported E7's, cut open and ported factory intake, ported stock throttle body, subframe connectors, 1.5" headers, o/r h-pipe, flowmaster cat back, MAC air tube, K&N conical filter, homemade heat sheild for filter, homemade cold air kit, MSD coil, 9mm plug wires, advanced base timing to 12 degrees, Chrome Pony rims, 235/55/r16 Cooper Cobras..... definately more to come!! ALL of this was done by myself....including the porting and gea
My 95GT has the same problem after changing the cam and heads. I installed a TrickFlow stage 1 cam and heads and now have the problem you described. Before chancing the cam and heads the car ran fine (no problem with stalling) so I ruled out MAF and TB. I checked the TB position sensor and set the adj. screw on the Throttle to .96 volts. This helped but the RPM still goes down when coming to a full stop (no stalling after this adj). I know that the computer is set to a predetermined idle RPM so maybe it needs to be re-programmed to fix this problem. If you find out what causes this problem please post it.
Could it be the transmission, again? 
