Shifting shaft rattles and the knob rattles as well
I just purchased a MOMO shift knob. After I installed it I noticed that the shifting shaft (don't know the technical term for it) vibrates more and the knob in turn makes rattling noise. I know that the knob is securely set, and the problem comes from the shaft that slightly rotates because it is somewhat loose.
My question is, can the shaft be tightened so it would not rotate even slightly. It moves less than a degree (maybe less) and that is what is causing the vibration.
Yes you can tighten the shifter rod (I don't know what it is called either). I installed a short throw shifter in my 89 GT and all you have to do is pop out the plastic casing that holds the leather boot in place to gain access to the 2 bolts that connect the shifter to the tranny. I am sure your bolts have always been loose but you never noticed the rattle until you bought the new knob, right?
Yeah!!!
The factory issued knob is that rubbery plastic thing and that never caused any rattling. Thanks a lot for telling me this, I was so frustrated with this. Now all I need to know is how I can pullt out the plastic casing that holds the leather boot in place.
I might take it into the transmission place if this is hard to do.
Thanks again.
what year stang have you got? if its 87-04, you just need to pop off the plastic piece that surrounds the shifter. there will be 2 bolts that attach the shifter arm to the shifter mechanism. just tighten those up.
__________________
1998 SVT Cobra #4941 of 5174 built on June 19,1998
4.30s, Speedcal, WMS CAI, Pro 5.0 shifter, Sniper Tuner, March pulleys, Mac O/R H pipe, Flowmaster orig. 40's, King Cobra clutch, D/S rotors, FRPP 9mm's, Max. Motorsports C/C plates, Termy front control arms, H&R SS springs, MM solid steering rack bushings, Tokico HP struts and shocks, Mac subrames, HID Bi-Xenon 6000k kit, Saleen 18" wheels, Saleen S-281 spoiler, sequential tails
Up Next: Termi diff, 31 spline Axles, LPW girdle, MM LCAs
just a gently prying. there is (i believe) 4 points at which it snaps in /out. just be gentle, but im sure you'll be all set. let us know if that fixes your problem. while you are working on that shifter, why not swap it out for a pro 5.0? or you can even swap just the handle. i would suggest using some loktite to keep those 2 bolts nice and tight. good luck
__________________
1998 SVT Cobra #4941 of 5174 built on June 19,1998
4.30s, Speedcal, WMS CAI, Pro 5.0 shifter, Sniper Tuner, March pulleys, Mac O/R H pipe, Flowmaster orig. 40's, King Cobra clutch, D/S rotors, FRPP 9mm's, Max. Motorsports C/C plates, Termy front control arms, H&R SS springs, MM solid steering rack bushings, Tokico HP struts and shocks, Mac subrames, HID Bi-Xenon 6000k kit, Saleen 18" wheels, Saleen S-281 spoiler, sequential tails
Up Next: Termi diff, 31 spline Axles, LPW girdle, MM LCAs
It wasn't the 2 bolts that were loose .
It is the shifter itself that is loose and I can't get in there unless I take the whole thing out.
I am looking to replace it with a quickshift now and looking at the Steeda Tri-AX TR3650.
How difficult is it to replace this? Is it as easy as removing the 4 bolts that are holding down the shifter and putting the new one over it?
I took the console off thx to your advices, but now I would rather replace the whole thing to take care of this problem and to get a better shifter.
Thx again all.
yes, just remove the 4 bolts (10mm, i think) and put a bead of some rtv silicone around the base before you reinstall the new shifter.tighten the bolts in a cross pattern. be sure to adjust the stops on the new shifter (there are 2 bolts that screw into the side of the new shifter, you'll see what i mean). to adjust the stops,back out the bolts and put the shifter in 3rd and screw the bolt all the way in until you are about .5-1cm away from the shifter handle. do the same while the shifter is in 2nd or 4th. reinstall the console piece and you are done. i suggest the PRO 5.0, but the other shifter that alot of people are raving about is the Steeda. either choice is a good choice. let us know what you decide and how it goes.
__________________
1998 SVT Cobra #4941 of 5174 built on June 19,1998
4.30s, Speedcal, WMS CAI, Pro 5.0 shifter, Sniper Tuner, March pulleys, Mac O/R H pipe, Flowmaster orig. 40's, King Cobra clutch, D/S rotors, FRPP 9mm's, Max. Motorsports C/C plates, Termy front control arms, H&R SS springs, MM solid steering rack bushings, Tokico HP struts and shocks, Mac subrames, HID Bi-Xenon 6000k kit, Saleen 18" wheels, Saleen S-281 spoiler, sequential tails
Up Next: Termi diff, 31 spline Axles, LPW girdle, MM LCAs
Thx for the detailed instruction. Only reason why I am getting the Steeda is because I am getting it only for $145.
I hope it is as easy as you described it, and hopefully I will not run into any other problems.
I know I will be posting a new thread if I do run into a problem, but it seems that your instruction is thorough enough for me to "get'er done".
Thanks again for your input.
yes, solid, on a scale of 1 to 10 i'd say its about a 2. very easy. reply back on this thread when the install is complete and let us know how it went
__________________
1998 SVT Cobra #4941 of 5174 built on June 19,1998
4.30s, Speedcal, WMS CAI, Pro 5.0 shifter, Sniper Tuner, March pulleys, Mac O/R H pipe, Flowmaster orig. 40's, King Cobra clutch, D/S rotors, FRPP 9mm's, Max. Motorsports C/C plates, Termy front control arms, H&R SS springs, MM solid steering rack bushings, Tokico HP struts and shocks, Mac subrames, HID Bi-Xenon 6000k kit, Saleen 18" wheels, Saleen S-281 spoiler, sequential tails
Up Next: Termi diff, 31 spline Axles, LPW girdle, MM LCAs
Shifting shaft rattles and the knob rattles as well 
)
.
