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Old 07-11-2005   #1 (permalink)
Chowder Head is offline Apprentice

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Default Car is still sputtering...

For those that don't know, here is whats happening.

Every time I start up the car and drive it when it has been sitting for some time it ALWAYS bogs like hell for about the first 10 mins of driving. Then most of the time it's fine. It's like the car's "warmed up" so the problem doesn't happen anymore. And 3 out of the 5 times I cruise around 65, the car suddenly loses power. I have to press the accerlerate more to stay at 65 and most of the time the car violently shakes.

So far I replaced the fuel filter and cleaned out the throttle body. What should I do next? Replace the IAC valve?
And could a s***ty air filter cause anything like this? I'm getting ready to order a new filter regardless and was wondering if that might do anything?

Any input would be peachy, thanks.
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Old 07-12-2005   #2 (permalink)
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Default Obd

Have you pulled the codes off the OBD? If so, what was the code?

Lacking a code, it occurs to me that it could be a dirty injector, bad plug, or bad wiring to same. I'm surprised you're not getting an O2 sensor check engine light.

Assuming no codes, I'd do the following:

Get the car to a good tune up shop. Tell them your problems. Have them clean the injectors and do a general tuneup. Change your air filter BEFORE you do this, of course (this can't hurt, but I'll be surprised if this is the solution).

Its possible this is nothing more than a dirty injector. If money prevents you seeking a mechanic, try a couple bottles of injector cleaner in the tank - can't hurt. Odds are it won't cure a really bad injector, though, so be advised...

If the problem is electrical, and lacking a diagnostic rig, you can isolate the problem by removing the plugs one by one and examining them. Look for one that's very different (wet with fuel, wet with oil, different color, burnt, gapped wrong, etc). Depending on what you find, this can tell a lot about your problem. One wet with fuel is not getting spark - one wet with oil might be sign of worn out rings, etc, etc - need a whole book here to speculate...

tripleblack

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chowder Head
For those that don't know, here is whats happening.

Every time I start up the car and drive it when it has been sitting for some time it ALWAYS bogs like hell for about the first 10 mins of driving. Then most of the time it's fine. It's like the car's "warmed up" so the problem doesn't happen anymore. And 3 out of the 5 times I cruise around 65, the car suddenly loses power. I have to press the accerlerate more to stay at 65 and most of the time the car violently shakes.

So far I replaced the fuel filter and cleaned out the throttle body. What should I do next? Replace the IAC valve?
And could a s***ty air filter cause anything like this? I'm getting ready to order a new filter regardless and was wondering if that might do anything?

Any input would be peachy, thanks.
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Old 07-12-2005   #3 (permalink)
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tripleblack
Have you pulled the codes off the OBD? If so, what was the code?

Lacking a code, it occurs to me that it could be a dirty injector, bad plug, or bad wiring to same. I'm surprised you're not getting an O2 sensor check engine light.
I've heard people talk about pulling codes before but how exactly do you do it? Doesn't Autozone or some other auto store check them for free? What will the codes tell me?

Well, I get the check engine light sometimes but not always. Tommorow when I take her out, I'll try to see when it says 'check engine'
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Old 07-13-2005   #4 (permalink)
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Default

some autozones will check for codes.........or you can go to walmart and buy a code reader for about 20 bucks.......
Meantime, check your throttlebody linkage setting....use a feeler gauge .010-.012, and back the bolt out on the bottom of the throttle body till the feeler gauge is snug between the bolt and the linkage, then set your tps in the key on engine off position.......096


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Old 07-13-2005   #5 (permalink)
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Default OBD Predator

Join a Mustang Club in your area MCA clubs are almost everywhere. If you came to one of my club's meetings (Atlanta/North Georgia area) you'd have several folks with Diablo and SCT tuners to pick from the check your codes and fill your head with advice - at least some of it worth hearing!

Lacking this, contact the local parts stores (Advance, Autozone, etc) and see who will help pull the codes off your machine. The OBD (on board diagnotics) codes are accesssed via a port located under your dash and above your throtte pedal (and to the right). Once you have the code, you'll need to either access the code's description (most of these shops will have a book with details on the codes) or you can look them up on line (this site has a code listing somewhere).

The codes will point to a specific problem. For instance, it will probably indicate exactly which cylinder is missing, and suggest a reason for it.

Codes are not infallible, but when they coincide with actual problems, I find they are usually valuable in diagnosing and curing the illness.

Good luck, man. Hope its something minor.

tripleblack

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chowder Head
I've heard people talk about pulling codes before but how exactly do you do it? Doesn't Autozone or some other auto store check them for free? What will the codes tell me?

Well, I get the check engine light sometimes but not always. Tommorow when I take her out, I'll try to see when it says 'check engine'
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Old 07-13-2005   #6 (permalink)
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyominghotwheel
Meantime, check your throttlebody linkage setting....use a feeler gauge .010-.012, and back the bolt out on the bottom of the throttle body till the feeler gauge is snug between the bolt and the linkage, then set your tps in the key on engine off position.......096
Feeler gauge? What does it do and where can I obtain one? Would it be better to buy one or just rent it?

Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it. I'm going to have my codes pulled probably tommorow.
:thumbsup
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