This might sound stupid, but would it be safe to hammer the gas tank? Like with a plastic dead blow hammer? I am putting wide tires on the rear of my car, so the tail pipes need to be moved in but the tank is in the way. I was originally just gonna buy a fuel cell that was narrower to make more room, but that becomes a little expensive so im trying to find an alternate route($600+ for cell, pump, lines, etc). Its just the 2 front, bottom corners of the tank that need to be hammered in (right where the pipes pass the tank) so I can move the pipes inward to clear the tire. As long as I use a PLASTIC dead blow hammer i should be fine right? It wont make any sparks or anything. Another option would be to buy a new tank for ~$120 and cut and weld it to work, but if I can just do this it would be basically free. If anyone knows, please let me know. I have already put so much money into this thing and its not going to be an all out race car so I dont really need a fuel cell n all that stuff so Im just trying to save some money to spend on other parts. THANX
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1993 GT Hatch: 306 with Twisted Wedge heads,TFS stage one cam,TFS upper/lower intake, 190lph fuel pump, 30lb injectors, 70mm TB/EGR plate, Granatelli MAF= now using Pro-M, Lakewood upper/lower control arms, powertrax diff, subframe connectors, Eibach springs, aluminum ds, t56 trans, Eibach swaybars, Flowtech LT's, Magnaflow CB, 17x10.5 deep dish cobras in rear, 17x9 cobras in front.
Marine Detachment, Keesler AFB, Biloxi MS
OOORAAHH!!!
wouldnt it be smarter to just buy the right tires?
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1965 Mustang Coupe Project: 1965 Mustang Inline 6 (For Now) Coupe, New Floors, New Quarters | Ford 9 Inch Rear, 11" Rear Disc Brakes, 3.50:1 Gears | Control Freak Front U/L Control Arms, Global West Adj. Strut Rods | KYB Gas-A-Justs, Grab-A-Trak 620 Coils & Mid-Eye 5-Leafs | Global West Tubular Subframe Connectors | Addco 1-1/8 Front Swaybar Kit
No, I want these soooo...... Im the kind of person that doesnt mind doing extra work to get what I want. No matter if it sounds stupid to other people or not. If it is possible to get it how I want it, then Ill do it. Im not gonna settle for something else just because its easier. I was basically asking if this would be safe or not. I am sure buying a new tank and modifying it is no doubt safer obviously cuz there hasnt been any fuel in it, but if there is no harm in modifying the original one, Id rather do that. I just wanna make sure I dont blow myself up.:thumbsup
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1993 GT Hatch: 306 with Twisted Wedge heads,TFS stage one cam,TFS upper/lower intake, 190lph fuel pump, 30lb injectors, 70mm TB/EGR plate, Granatelli MAF= now using Pro-M, Lakewood upper/lower control arms, powertrax diff, subframe connectors, Eibach springs, aluminum ds, t56 trans, Eibach swaybars, Flowtech LT's, Magnaflow CB, 17x10.5 deep dish cobras in rear, 17x9 cobras in front.
Marine Detachment, Keesler AFB, Biloxi MS
OOORAAHH!!!
I have a problem with my tank being to close to the fuel tank top lip on the driver's side. I beat the hell out of it and used channel locks and everything. That tank would give much good luck.
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DHG #01434 Bullitt - full JLT intake, MGW shifter, Accel coils (I wish I had 4.10s, o/r H, tune)
Black 89 LX(the drag car) best 8.75 at 80 mph in the 1/8
97 Mountaineer V8 AWD
I have a problem with my tank being to close to the fuel tank top lip on the driver's side. I beat the hell out of it and used channel locks and everything. That tank would give much good luck.
Hey man, i don't really understand what your saying . You mind rewording that? Thanx
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1993 GT Hatch: 306 with Twisted Wedge heads,TFS stage one cam,TFS upper/lower intake, 190lph fuel pump, 30lb injectors, 70mm TB/EGR plate, Granatelli MAF= now using Pro-M, Lakewood upper/lower control arms, powertrax diff, subframe connectors, Eibach springs, aluminum ds, t56 trans, Eibach swaybars, Flowtech LT's, Magnaflow CB, 17x10.5 deep dish cobras in rear, 17x9 cobras in front.
Marine Detachment, Keesler AFB, Biloxi MS
OOORAAHH!!!