I've got a 2001 GT with 90,000 kms on it. I noticed that it's got a hitching sensation when accelerating at a low RPM (1200 to 2000). I went to my local Ford dealer last week and purchased the proper plugs for the car and I installed them last night. They didn't appear to help at all. Other than the hitching, the car seems to work ok. To me, it feels like an ignition problem but I could be wrong. Has anyone else had this problem and fixed it? The car is 100% stock, though I did order a cold air intake system today which should be here in about a week.
I was kind of leaning in that direction because 7 of the COPs are OEM but one of them looks aftermarket. I didn't buy the car new so this type of engine is all fairly new to me. It's a tad different than what I'm used to working on. Is there a back yard way of checking these things to see if they are in deed breaking down, or is this a dealer checkup?
I was kind of leaning in that direction because 7 of the COPs are OEM but one of them looks aftermarket. I didn't buy the car new so this type of engine is all fairly new to me. It's a tad different than what I'm used to working on. Is there a back yard way of checking these things to see if they are in deed breaking down, or is this a dealer checkup?
DM
I would like to find that out myself... The BULLITT is my first foray with these things
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My Haynes manual talks about checking the resistance of them. Connect an ohm meter across the coil primary terminal (+) and the negative, it should be .55 ohms. Then check the secondary resistance (the one that fits over the spark plug), it should be 5.5 K-ohms. I took this info straight from the Haynes so it should be pretty acurate. My Bullitt has a miss at low rpms and I will be checking the COPs in a day or so and report back.
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DHG #01434 Bullitt - full JLT intake, MGW shifter, Accel coils (I wish I had 4.10s, o/r H, tune)
Black 89 LX(the drag car) best 8.75 at 80 mph in the 1/8
97 Mountaineer V8 AWD
Thanks for the coil testing info. I tried all 8 of my COPs but none of them appeared to be out of the ordinary from the rest. They were all approx 5.9 to 5.7 on the secondary, and .8 to .7 on the primary. (my digital meter only goes down to 200ohms so I couldn't get an exact reading on the primary). I tried disconnecting the Throttle Position Sensor and using my meter to check the resistance while my wife slowly pushed the throttle to the floor. Sometimes if they are getting bad you'll get a spike on the meter... but that was with no luck either. I'm going to keep hunting around but for now I'm open to suggestions.
I just pulled all the COPs and checked resitance and they are all OK. I also pulled all the plugs and they were Autolite Platinums (764s)and they also looked OK. Then I cleaned the IAC and reinstalled. I've heard the Bullitt had a TSB for a retune so I may call Ford on Monday and talk to them about it. I've also cleaned the MAF, and the other little sensor after the MAF and ran some Seafoam through it. It didn't smoke very much at all so I guess it wasn't very dirty. It misses off idle to about 3500 or so and pings a little. But when I hammer on it, it seems strong at high rpms. Any help would be appreciated....All my COPs were 5.32-5.42 secondary and .7 primary. BTW 3 of them are different from the rest.
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DHG #01434 Bullitt - full JLT intake, MGW shifter, Accel coils (I wish I had 4.10s, o/r H, tune)
Black 89 LX(the drag car) best 8.75 at 80 mph in the 1/8
97 Mountaineer V8 AWD
I just pulled all the COPs and checked resitance and they are all OK. I also pulled all the plugs and they were Autolite Platinums (764s)and they also looked OK. Then I cleaned the IAC and reinstalled. I've heard the Bullitt had a TSB for a retune so I may call Ford on Monday and talk to them about it. I've also cleaned the MAF, and the other little sensor after the MAF and ran some Seafoam through it. It didn't smoke very much at all so I guess it wasn't very dirty. It misses off idle to about 3500 or so and pings a little. But when I hammer on it, it seems strong at high rpms. Any help would be appreciated....All my COPs were 5.32-5.42 secondary and .7 primary. BTW 3 of them are different from the rest.
Mine knocks at WOT around 2500RPM.
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I took the car to Advance and had them check the battery and alternator and they both checked out OK. I bought a fuel filter which will get replaced when I get a chance. After that I'll probably disconnect the battery for a while and see if it clears up. I think my car may be from Canada. On the door tag it has a stamp from Canada transport and it has a 3 prong 110v plug up buy the hood latch (I'm thinking block heater). The only other thing I might do is take it to Ford and inquire about the reflash or see if by any chance this could be a warranty issue.
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DHG #01434 Bullitt - full JLT intake, MGW shifter, Accel coils (I wish I had 4.10s, o/r H, tune)
Black 89 LX(the drag car) best 8.75 at 80 mph in the 1/8
97 Mountaineer V8 AWD
is it turning on check engine light? i just put a cop on cyl number 4 the car was doin what u explained
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1996 mustang vortech v-2 sq blower with aftercooler 10psi, proffesional products 75mm tb and plenum,bbk long tubes,custom x-pipe,flowmaster cat back,3.73, optima red top in trunk,steeda clutch quadrant and fire wall adjuster,poly motor and trans mounts,alum drive shaft,maxium motorsports suspension,tubular k-member/arms, qa-1 struts and shocks,steeda cc plates,custom subframe connectors,welded torque boxes,t/a rearend cover,walbro255, b&m shifter/triax handle,sct tuner.90mm lighting mam
No check engine light. I wish it would turn on at least I would know where to look for the problem.
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DHG #01434 Bullitt - full JLT intake, MGW shifter, Accel coils (I wish I had 4.10s, o/r H, tune)
Black 89 LX(the drag car) best 8.75 at 80 mph in the 1/8
97 Mountaineer V8 AWD
I tried pretty much the same stuff as dollarbill has tried... the MAF, TPS, Plugs, COPs Resistance etc... but my GT is still hitching from 1200 to 2000 RPM. It seems to be worse once it warms up and though it does seem to still pull good, the car feels slugish when driven normal. I finally bit the bullet today and made an appointment with my Ford dealer for tomorrow morning so I'll let you all know the outcome once they check it out.
One thing I will ad to Dollarbill though, is unless the dash has been changed in your car, it would read Kilometers in large numbers and MPH in small numbers if your car is from Canada. It could have been manufactured in a Canadian Ford plant (there's a huge one in Ontario) and that could be the reason for the Canadian sticker.
That must be it then because it has mph in big numbers. I also made an apointment with Ford for the 7th at 7AM. I fully explained everything and he ran my vin and come to find out my car has had a new fuel pump, filter and 2 COPs in the past. He also knew nothing about a recall for a retune of the computer. It costs $78 plus tax to diagnose the problem, but I see a larger bill in my future....
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DHG #01434 Bullitt - full JLT intake, MGW shifter, Accel coils (I wish I had 4.10s, o/r H, tune)
Black 89 LX(the drag car) best 8.75 at 80 mph in the 1/8
97 Mountaineer V8 AWD
is it turning on check engine light? i just put a cop on cyl number 4 the car was doin what u explained
You have COPs on a 96? I thought only 99+ had those. Did you convert to a PI engine?
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DHG #01434 Bullitt - full JLT intake, MGW shifter, Accel coils (I wish I had 4.10s, o/r H, tune)
Black 89 LX(the drag car) best 8.75 at 80 mph in the 1/8
97 Mountaineer V8 AWD
I broke down and took the car to my Ford dealer this morning and they found that the number 7 coil was breaking down when under load. It cost me 90.00 labor and 150.00 for the coil. Now that I know how the car acts with a bad coil though, if it ever starts acting up like that again I think my plan will be to just buy a new coil and swap out one, take it for a drive, swap out another etc... until I find through process of elimination which coil is acting up. It will at least save me the labor charges. My car was hitching at low RPM but seemed to pull alright once over the 2500RPM mark. When I drove it home today though, I noticed a difference in power even at the higher RPM. I'm guessing that the coil was still breaking down, but I just couldn't feel it. I'm anxious for my cold air system to get here, then my next move will be to hit the exhaust.
Thanks for everyone's input on this thread, I'm a newbie to the site and I grew up on Big Block Chev's and Fords, but I must say this little Mustang is a treat to drive, and I'm hoping with a few mods I'll get 300HP out of it and that will do me just fine.
01 GT hitching at low RPM 
