i have a 93 2.3 with 56,000 the timing belt broke due to age i assume.any way i got the crank pully off (4 bolts).any tips on how to break the center bolt to pull the hub off.and is the bolt reg thread or reverse??any help wud greatly be appreciated thank you!!
on my 4.6l gt when i put my ud pullies on i had the belt on stuffed a reg inbetween the belt and the pully then put a socket on with a regular ratchet then used a long bar put it over the rachet and carefully broke it loose
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2001 Mustang Convertible (Cruise Car)...
2000 Mustang Coupe (Race Car)...
Well It's Enough To Kill ANY Of Those Jap Cars
"Real Cars Don't Power The Front Wheels, They Lift Them"
IF u have side screw in spark plugs "only as a last resort", put a thick screwdriver in the plug hole about an inch or 2 on the compression stroke, while the piston is down on that cylinder and turn the crank and the cylinder will stop hitting the screwdriver and slowly turn the crank bolt to get it loose.
i have a 93 2.3 with 56,000 the timing belt broke due to age i assume.any way i got the crank pully off (4 bolts).any tips on how to break the center bolt to pull the hub off.and is the bolt reg thread or reverse??any help wud greatly be appreciated thank you!!
The bolt is normal right hand tread. Use a 1/2 drive inpach wrench. To do this you will have to remove the radiator. You will then need a damper pully puller to remove the pully. Again to use the puller, the radiator must be removed.
It is possible to put a timing belt on a 2.3 with the crank pulley still on, just requires a little bit of patience. I think youll have to pull off your accesory belt and the timing chain cover, but i assume youve already done that.
yea i would do what reivax said.... i dont think i would wana trash a piston with a screw driver............
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1996 mustang vortech v-2 sq blower with aftercooler 10psi, proffesional products 75mm tb and plenum,bbk long tubes,custom x-pipe,flowmaster cat back,3.73, optima red top in trunk,steeda clutch quadrant and fire wall adjuster,poly motor and trans mounts,alum drive shaft,maxium motorsports suspension,tubular k-member/arms, qa-1 struts and shocks,steeda cc plates,custom subframe connectors,welded torque boxes,t/a rearend cover,walbro255, b&m shifter/triax handle,sct tuner.90mm lighting mam
well thanx every body for ur input and help!but i cud not break the bolt.so wut i did was.i bent the belt guide back.then i lined up my marks.then i put my belt on starting at the bottom ofcoarse lol.once the belt was on i carefully tapped the belt guide back.then i put it all back together,and it purred like a kitten.but i did hear a noise so i took it all back apart thinking i did not bend the guide back right.so when i made sum adjustment to it.i broke the crank sensor.that sensor was a $125 wow.but any ways the car runs great
o -boy costly mistakes.....least shes running good though lol
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1996 mustang vortech v-2 sq blower with aftercooler 10psi, proffesional products 75mm tb and plenum,bbk long tubes,custom x-pipe,flowmaster cat back,3.73, optima red top in trunk,steeda clutch quadrant and fire wall adjuster,poly motor and trans mounts,alum drive shaft,maxium motorsports suspension,tubular k-member/arms, qa-1 struts and shocks,steeda cc plates,custom subframe connectors,welded torque boxes,t/a rearend cover,walbro255, b&m shifter/triax handle,sct tuner.90mm lighting mam
cant seem to break the center bolt on crank 
