Hey All first of all i would like to say this website rocks! with that have been said i need a mustang... which do yall recomend? 4.6 or the 5.0 (94-95)?? Im leaning toward the 5.0 now. I am sure i will spend lots of time and money on this car (being my mustang). I am looking at all mods and very open mided to anyone sugestions on what mustang and mods within a reasonable price. (basicly i want the most GO for the least Dough) so thank you all for your help!
If you want the looks of the newer Mustang's and somthing that not to tough to work on go with a 94-95. It's also cheaper to make more power with a 5.0 vs a 4.6.
with $8000 you can get just about anything on the market as far as pre-95 goes as long as it hasn't been extensively modified already.
Heck, I bought my 74 for $200 and my T-bird for $1000....
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1976 Ford Mustang II Ghia: 302 with a 600cfm Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake, Dynomax Blackjack headers, 2.5" exhaust with Flowmaster Super 44s. RJS 11-gallon fuel cell, C4 tranny, chrome 16" pony wheels, fuzzy dice, brown vinyl half-top, and painted in the tackiest color ever (harvest gold, that's why I call it "The Goldenrod").
Also have a 2003 Dodge Ram (lightly modded daily driver/tow rig/office/dining room/home away from home/workshop... I call it "The Big Blue Dawg".)
You can buy a nicely built 5 litre for that much money. If your set on building car yourself any of the 5 litre coupes would be the cheapest way to start. I don't know why people are suggesting to you the SN95 cars as they are not only the the slowest of the 5 litres but their computers calculate load different and don't work well with the bigger cams.
It all depends on what your looking for. Performance wise, they are about the same, with some drawbacks for the 87-93's like no ABS and not so good of handling, and SN95's hyperutectic pistons. Of course, all that can be changed with aftermarket parts. I've had both years and for daily driving I prefer my SN95. My 87 was a quick lil' sucker though!
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97 Cobra #777 Blk/Blk
ProCharger P600B 7psi w/3 core intercooler, off road x-pipe, flows, pro kit, oil separator mod.
Texas Pony GT if you are looking for a street car with dependablity.
I would buy a 5.0L if that's what you are intrusted in. The Pro's and
Con's of owning a 5.0 v.s.4.6 is. They make more aftermarket part's
for the 5.0 plus are eazyer to work on in my opinion but, the part's
are somewhat cheaper and the only thing is it is just natural that 4.6L's
are just more dependable that a the 5.0's but in turn very expensive
to work on.Just my two cent's . If I were to start all over again I
would purchase a 90-92 GT or 94-95 GT.I wish you good luck on what
ever you buy!
Performance wise the SN95 cars are a lot slower than a 87-93 stang. SN95 cars are not only heavier their computers retard timing during upshifts and the upper intake manifold flows worse. An 87-88 speed density stang stock to stock is one of the quicker cars built as most even run mid 13s and faster with just a gear change and slicks. I would stay away from SN95 cars unless your looking to stay up with newer body styles and a quieter/smoother ride.
95SN's give you more of the creature comforts, not to mention the ABS which really comes in handy the faster you get.
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94 GT conv hunter green
C&L 76mm with power tube and 9in KN
offroad X-pipe no cats
Pulleys
Equal length headers
2 chamber flowmasters
93 Cobra Intake with SVO adaptor
Steeda Tri-ax shifter
99GT 17x8 rims with 245 Cooper Cobras
355's
70mm Throttle body
Mac upper and lower controller arms
Tokico shocks and struts for lowered cars
Eibach lowering springs for conv
Steeda caster camber kit
Kenny Brown subframes
Originally posted by EZBNME Performance wise the SN95 cars are a lot slower than a 87-93 stang. SN95 cars are not only heavier their computers retard timing during upshifts and the upper intake manifold flows worse. An 87-88 speed density stang stock to stock is one of the quicker cars built as most even run mid 13s and faster with just a gear change and slicks. I would stay away from SN95 cars unless your looking to stay up with newer body styles and a quieter/smoother ride.
Yes, the speed density stangs run faster than mass air cars in stock form. The 85-87 cam is different making an average of 3-5 more horse. There is no 55mm air meter restricting air flow and the speed density computer has a much leaner fuel curve in open loop mode making more power. In my testing a S/D Stang same weight is about 3 tenths quicker on the average. I have owned several EFI stangs and still have both 87s. Look at the facts and other previous testing before you disagree.
You have to be careful with camshaft selection related to vacuum or engine will be hard to idle and load up with fuel at part throttle. My testing has proved that if camshaft duration is kept under 220/226 @.050 lift with a 114 LSA there is still enough vacuum to retain smooth part throttle drivability. Aftermarket heads and intake can still be used as well. Installing 24lb injectors works also with a fuel pressure regulator. Larger engines such as a 347 are even better due to larger engine creating more vacuum. I have one 87 built that runs deep in the 11s with mass air on a 302. I am switching back to speed density with a smaller cam and a 347 that will run faster.
I have 8,000 what kind of Stang do i Get?!?!?! 
. If I were to start all over again I 
